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Posts posted by Kerry
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Very cool protection system. Trying to figure out how it actually works.
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Happy birthday!
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Happy birthday! Have a great day
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Happy birthday! Enjoy
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Happy Birthday! Enjoy
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Funny, I was just listening to 99 Luftballons over the last week Good memories...
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Beautiful!
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I don't have a scaled down T2 PSU. The one I use is based on the original T2 PSU schematic.
I am working on a golden reference version, but that project is not completed.
Once upon a time, I did a golden reference version, but it was too fragile. In my new project, I will add current limiters in front of the regulators, like Kevin did in the T2 PSU.
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There was a group buy for this already. You should be able to find what you need there
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The JAN Phillips are a nice choice to get started with though I prefer the Amperex.
Tube depot has a matching service as well.
PS. Not sure about where to buy in Austria
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The maximum potential voltage there is only about 810v, so the 900v rating is perfectly fine.
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You really want the highest Hfe for the batteries. I shoot for around 60
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On 7/12/2021 at 6:57 AM, JoaMat said:
Thanks Kerry, for internal picture of and info about your T2. It’s always very inspiring see your work.
I assume the four small boards, one at each big tube, are CCS for the two LEDs on main board at respective output CCS. They must differ (schematically) from the original design, mustn’t they? Do you mind tell us what the small boards look like?
Yes. It's the CCS for the LEDs that feed the the output CCS. It's a simple cascaded DMOS with a cap on board.
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19 hours ago, starcat said:
Are you using all original transistors or modified boards with substitutes?
Digital attenuator or analog pot in there?I've redesigned my own boards and using the RK50 typically.
I'm currently using C3675 (4x for the active batteries), KSA1156, C4685A (output CCS), FJPF2145, STN9360, J79, K216.
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Happy Birthday Jose!
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Happy Birthday!
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You can use the RK50 50K A taper pot.
Model number is RK50114A0001.
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Happy Birthday Justin!
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I don’t ground the PS to the chassis because there is a switch on the amp board that ties ground to the chassis or can leave it floating.
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That’s great news. Congrats.
I just use resistive loads mounted on heat sinks. Make sure they can handle the power and voltage.
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That will do. Take it from one of the positive rails.
while you’re at it, double check the value of R72 and confirm continuity of the ground pin for the reference.
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^ Agreed
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Don’t worry about Q16 and Q17 since you are getting about 425v out of the regulator.
If you are getting 30v across D12 then it says that Q18 is most likely working.
If you report back on that it will be easy to figure out next steps.
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Audeze CRBN
in Headphones
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^ Yes please