audiostar

Phew... couple of days already finishing up the final wiring, setup and calibration of my CNC router. Ended up with a 2.2kW 400Hz water cooled spindle on a 4 axis machine that is connected to a Mach3 system with two LPT cards fully automating spindle start/stop, water pump start/stop for cooling, air cooling for the cutter, etc. Very happy for now how everything goes together. Need to fabricate a heavy duty cabinet for it holding all the electrical stuff and computer below the machine with some drawers as well for the cutting tools, fixtures, vacuum pump and water tank as well. Going to keep me busy for some time.

Ok, right-click and then "save as" works, but then the file needs to be renamed to .pdf in order to be able to open it. Chrome saves it on macos as undefined. Must be something with the formatting thats wrong.

Just tried and same for me.

Congrats, JoaMat. Possible the post the schematics, maybe a gerber as well? Thanks!

What about mono blocks, putting both differential halves per channel in their own case on the left/right heatsink. This will give more space on the heatsinks for more transistors and more room in the mid of the case for a proper PSU.

Agree. And a proper 1KVA toroid needed in the middle of the case as well with some 120,000 of caps.

Would using a 2nd board (like the split boards) for the transistors below the main board bring anything? It will keep the two transistor rows closer to each other thus reducing the height of the heatsinks.

Looks very nice, Kevin. I will skip the brackets and mount transistors directly to the heatsinks.

Getting into mighty power amp territories 😃 making sure there is enough heatsink estate as well 😅

What would be the change in length?

Sure, I can do the checking. Which Connex would you recommend?

Hey Kevin, thanks for this - specs look like of a power amp 🙂 wow. Gerbers available as well?

@Pars, if he is using leaded solder, temp might be less than when using lead-free solder. Maybe the boards weren't good enough.

Normally, not. Depending mostly on how long did you hold the iron on the component.

Probably overheating, pulling around on the components and/or lower quality boards. In any case advisable to resolve this first before going further. Might be you best take out the component first and repair the tracks and board.

Then heat up and use a solder wick (or braid) to suck up everything around there. Then clean and solder again using enough flux. There is no such like you can not remove. Look here

Put extra flux in there and solder again. The flux will separate the legs and resolve the bridge.

Kevin's split boards fit the heat sinks of a 2U case perfectly as well. All the inner space is then left for whatever one wants.

Yes, it will be. Both CFA2 and CFA3.

Looks like those relays on the input board are used to switch between chinch and XLR inputs. But that soldering job...

Reading the comments here how great everything is, just wondering why don't you send it back for service? It obviously would cost something but it's their product? 680uF/550V Capacitors x4 upgrade for $999 and a TKD 4CP2508 upgrade for another $999...

https://www.myheadfi.com/2020/11/17/kgsshv-carbon-and-other-updates/

As it turns on, it shouldn't be the fuse, right. It looks like there is some relay based protection on the inputs, can you hear both relays click after turning on? How much did you pay for this (messy) build? Are you comfortable with measuring high voltages and do you have a DMM? Maybe it is better to send it to somebody knowledgable for repair, if anyone is willing that is. Where are you located?

I would put all PCBs on the table without a chassis and see what happens. Second, completely eliminate the pot and measure again. Make it as simple as possible.

If the source was connected I would still suggest to cut pin 1 at the receiver side. You don't know how the source is implemented and where is pin 1 connected to. It may be chassis, may be circuit ground, maybe nowhere. But it looks like you don't have a source connected at all. What's then the purpose of that XLR cable, don't understand?