Torpedo
-
Posts
10,564 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Torpedo
-
-
That's the theory, and then there's what SPDIF outputs throw. As I see it, the signal is analogue for being a constant wave, there are no 0 and x Volts states, but a continuous waveform changing from a voltage point to another. Abruptly and with a square shape, but in essence not very different from a sinewave. Anyway, it's just a matter of interpretation, the real point is that the SPDIF wave is under the same transmission conditions that would affect any other analogue signal carried by a IC.
-
You can get the pads directly from Japan, ask Craig at Kuboten, I think he'd be more reliable than Mikhail. Regarding the foam... that's a tougher call, however I'm sure Alex would suggest you alternatives. To clean that mess up you just need care and patience, if you don't have the will to try, then Alex would be a good choice, I don't know, never dealt with him.
I wonder how any person would open a pair of R10s he received on loan. What a shame. I'm sorry for you, good luck.
-
I don't know what part of a BMC signal you consider pretty analog... sure looks like square waves of only two different widths to me.
Yep, and square waves aren't analogue? What I'm trying to mean is the electrical signal is analogue in nature and what's digital to be decoded is the information it carries.
-
Paraphrasing Ken, Happy Bday Happy Bday. Have a great one you both.
-
While it can indeed be an electrical signal, it is a 1/0 square wave (ideally) signal. I.e. the system only recognises the 2 different voltages, one for 1 and the other for zero. If we arbitarily assign them +1 and -1V, it doesn't really matter if interference or poor components causes it to become +1.01V cause the system will just take it as 1 in binary.
Btw please don't take it as a challenge or a check of your authourity on this subject or anything. I asked simply to hear other's experinces with different transports.
As for what you have tried, how does the quality of the transport scale with cost?
Hmm... That was exactly why I put $200 vs $2000, and not $200 vs $220. I though that if people were paying 10x more there must be a reason right. Or maybe that's just my wishful thinking
Not very sure the data part of the SPDIF signal is square waves, that's initially what the pits and dots engraved on the shiny discs produce, but once those changes in the level are integrated to form the eye pattern wave and are later mixed with the clock data, it's not that simple. It's an AC signal looking pretty analogue.
I have no authority mate, just some experience fiddling with gear, that's all. IMO there's nothing like true sound quality and musical results scaling with expense. I've used many different transports, from pro ones into CD recorders to vintage Theta laserdisc readers, going through boutique ones, inexpensive DVD-V players and midrange universal players. All I've learned is that generalizations cannot be made, and largely depend on the DAC you're using and the link between the transport and DAC. I've found really good transports that have excellent error correction and won't skip reading the worst condition CDs, that don't manage to really make music, just good sounds. Some others are very finicky about the discs quality, and won't read poorly pressed commercial CDs, but manage to sound really natural and fluent depending on the digital link you use.
If any, the only conclusion I can take from that experience is that optical link mostly sucks music-wise.
There are differences, that's sure, but to find them, and deciding if they're worth the cost, you first need the gear to put them in evidence, then using the recordings and music that may benefit from those differences.
-
No, I think he means a transport used to feed a dac.
I know, and to that I replied. The electrical signal isn't digital, it's not pulses or anything really "digital" it's an electrical signal showing volt vs time variation.
Replying to the if I have A/Bd them, yes, I have A/Bed transports many times and they don't sound the same. There are differences even depending on the DAC used.
-
Hahaha, completely wrong mate, the electric signal coming out from a transport is entirely analogue, which is not to say that the information is analogue. Different things if you think about it carefully.
-
Aerius, you need to get some CCa tubes, either Siemens or Telefunken. Be patient and spot them from a reliable seller. They might get that bass right while keeping the midrange rightness you're loving so much. You might also be surprised for the improved detail over the Mullards/russian tubes and the dynamic slam. IMO that player deserves those tubes.
If you cannot find them, then try Siemens or Teles E88CC istead. If you still cannot spot any, then JJ goldpins or Jan Philips can be a decent quite complete alternative.
Thanks for the review
-
I've just received, perfectly packaged, a pair of Fostex T30 from Dmitri. Everything came out as expected. I recommend him as a seller without hesitation.
-
I just bought the "Lagrimas Negras" CD by Bebo and Cigalo. Antonio (torpedo) recommended it to me. It's exceptional. I highly recommend it.
Glad you're enjoying it
-
ha, no that's "grave como el orto" aka "grave de mierda" > bass like the ass or bass like shit
-
LOL Oh well, in Spanish it's even worse since it's written "ortodin
-
I couldn't tell the difference between 24/96 and 24/88 either, but in between 24/88 and 20/96 it was slightly noticeable favoring 24/88. However I must admit that at that point we were really tired of comparing samples
-
Where just that then explain to me how we found the 24/88 recording more similar to the vinyl than the 16/44. Of course it's on the mix, but also the way you record onto digital and how you convert back into analog make a difference. Only good transfers from vinyl into CD can sound as good as the vinyl.
-
Not really more, but some parts of the information, specially the space related ones such as stage depth, performers layering, etc, in which vinyl is quite superior in general terms to digital, are much better portrayed on a well setup speakers system than by most phones. Maybe if you had had the chance to use the K1000 or R10 you'd have noticed some differences. Or not, the more I learn about audio the more convinced I am that everyone has his own ears and his own way to listen.
-
I think they are looking into a 'budget' version but I think he's probably right that there is currently no new model being made. I'd assume all their efforts went into the 800 and the filter down will start once they are flowing and get sufficient feedback.
Looks sensible to me that they keep their plans secret until they've recovered all they invested into the HD800 R+D.
-
Dusty I have done it. I took a digital track and set re-sampling and bit depths all over the range (44.1-96/ 16-14) and couldn't hear any difference. This was using the SRC sinc interpolator (which is a brick wall filter btw).
The reason you add dither is to make sure that the noise floor stays wide banded as you point out. I had oversimplified.
And what system were you using to listen? I mean that the system capabilities are very important to notice those differences. I'm sure we hadn't noticed them on most phones, and we needed a speaker setup to really be sure they existed.
-
Ha, if I'm producing 1000+ units of my new statement product, but I'm planning to use that technology offering 80% of the performance at half the price, I'd also be saying that I have no plans to do so until those 1000+ units are sold hehehe.
-
^ Sure, the question is if Sennheiser is reserving the whole "first wave" of their run for the USA market or if they're accounting they're selling cans Worldwide, and will try to get some units for every country into their distribution network. IMHO they'll have some units everywhere, and nothing will ship until they know they can give every single distributor a couple of units in the worst case.
-
Grawk, you may well be right, I still prefer my DAC/transport doing plain RBCD than any "high definition" digital format I've listened to. In any case it's a good thing that inexpensively recorded and reproduced 24/88 files can sound that close to analog. You need some serious money and effort to get that from RBCD.
-
I said more than 200 since the pic of the unit at CES displayed a 2xx, but we can speculate they've already produced 300 or 500, who knows! My guess, and as such should be understood, considering Sennheiser's history, is that the first units will be available at more or less the same time everywhere and only from selected vendors. They take much care of their distributors and I'm sure they won't damage some of them for having others offering the product earlier.
They know this product would create expectation and that there would be a peak demand at launch, so it will take place only when they're sure they can supply that initial demand. If that's higher than they expected, then the actual release will be later.
-
I didn't do 24/88, I did 24/44, because I'm not a bat. I do it sometimes for the theoretical advantage, but in the field resources are scarce, so I didn't capture data I didn't need. Bit depth I needed, higher frequencies than 22k I didn't.
It's theoretically possible in dac designs with no brickwall filter at 22khz (most have them) you might hear a difference, but I doubt it. But you're really not going to hear anything 96db below the loudest point recorded unless you're playing that loudest point recorded at 120dB.
Theoretically you're absolutely right and there's no rational advantage in using a higher sampling rate. However you'd have to agree that having twice the points to reconstruct the analog signal should make it kind of "smoother" at any frequency in the audible range. That which is just an intuitive observation and which may be wrong, IME makes an audible difference, and I'm not a bat either. Maybe the maths used to reconstruct a 10KHz wave from 4 sampled points aren't as perfected as they are to reconstruct that same wave using 8 samples. In any case I insist that the bigger difference I noticed for making the digital recording closer to the vinyl used, was by increasing the bit depth more than the sampling rate, despite it was noticeable, IMO wasn't as evident.
-
And you didn't notice any difference from having recorded the very same signal at 16/44 than at 24/88? Surprising, that doesn't match my experience at all.
-
Just try it yourself man, there's a clear difference. Make your own recording from a pure analogue source and use different sample rates and bit depths, then listen with no downconversion.
My poor R10s ):
in Headphones
Posted
Bluebliss, I changed myself my bass-light R10's pads a few months ago. I got the spare set from Craig. After removing the old pads, I had a situation similar to yours, with all the old adhesive stick over the metal ring, with some parts of the leather inner sheet (which looked like cloth) still glued in some areas. Then I was able to see the shape of the orange rubber rings around the drivers. Mine were quite OK, the rubber was aged and not elastic, but still in place and doing its function.
I spent about one hour to clean the old adhesive on each driver. It took that long for the extreme care I put in not damaging the wood, the driver and the rubber. I used nail polish removing fluid (acetone) which acted better as solvent than alcohol, and used an old cloth piece to apply it and wrap away the adhesive and pieces of the pad. I needed to slightly rub in some areas with a wood wedge (like an ice cream spoon) to remove the thicker adhesive areas but being very gentle to the metal ring.
Once I had the metal ring completely clean, smooth and tidy, I placed the new pads in place, which is not easy, you need a steady hand to get the two small pins into the minute holes of the frame at the first trial. Otherwise you'd need to remove the already glued pad, and you very likely would have a situation very similar to the initial one
In your case it'd be a bit more complicated for having to clean the holes in the wood housing and getting a new rubber ring in place, but IMO the whole thing is quite feasible being patient and careful, so if you're going to ask Alex to do it for you, I'm quite confident he'll manage to return your R10s in good shape and perfect function.
I guess the guy who got your R10 thought that the pads would stick again in place after his looking at the rubber rings, but once he noticed he had fucked up them, the rubber inside was a complete mess, and he had managed to spread the old adhesive over the wood housing, he panicked and left the thing like that. I don't blame him for trying, but for not finishing the job, it's not that difficult and getting a new set of pads for a surgeon isn't that expensive. I had never made such thing he did to your R10