padam

Based on my experience, going for a HV over a lower end amp like the 717 will have better bass control and soundstage, but won't cause a fundamental change in the sound (probably most important with an SR007 Mk1). If you prefer an older Stax (which can be had for much less), then it is all the better for you.

Compared to...? It is easy to feel that they are bass shy if you are used to bass heavy headphones. It takes a while to adjust. After listening to headphones with various dips and bumps in the frequency response, it is easy to feel that another headphones is dull, not having those isses. Besides, the source can also make a big difference. But in the end they just might not be to your taste (plenty of others to choose from anyway)

A7II + Konica Hexanon 400mm f/5.6 UC

I loved them, too. It is a shame that they won't make the smaller round drivers anymore, they would fit in well in the product line as a 'mini-SR009' (and they look good, which some people care about). It could be made with a better headband, too. Other companies making crappier stuff and marketing them like crazy get on better, unfortunately. Not sure where Stax is at the moment, but I guess any kind of new stuff is just too costly to develop and manufacture, and they prefer to play it safe (and slow).

I took 1200 shots (raw+jpeg) and about 30 minutes of videos, consumed about 2.5 batteries. I think that is fine, I expected much worse with the stabilization. What I noticed a few days before was that the battery goes down even if I just fiddle with the settings here and there, and not take pictures. It is more like the D610 sensor. Not exactly the same, since it has phase detection points as well so a bit noisier at high ISOs, but similar. The D750 is newer and better in high ISO, better sensor readout for video with lower noise, etc. so it would have been a good choice, I guess it was more economical to keep the old one, but apart from the body design (should have been like this in the first place, no plastic in the front panel and the metal mount is a now tighter fit and without flex) the stabilization, software tweakings, and fixing some of the issues with the A7 (like sensor flare) there aren't that many new features.

Just a few snaps from a recent wedding taken with a second-hand Sony A7II that I just bought a few days ago with some manual lenses. (no PP or just cropping) Minolta 35/2.8 New MD (last version) This lens can be had for cheap, small and light, focusing is buttery smooth and it is sharp corner to corner, I had the Zeiss FE 35/2.8 and this one gives it a run for its money Canon 35/2 LTM Contrary to the Minolta, this has a lot of vignetting and corner smearing (the hood I use has a tiny bit more in the corner as well, but it is better than dealing with the flare) and focusing close with the helicoid adapter is fiddly but it gives a nice cinematic feel, and it is tiny without the hood, despite having that extra stop. I think this is the one I'll keep to keep things simple (and maybe try something else). Canon 50/1.5 LTM This lens used to be a sleeper, now well-known as a Sonnar variant, it gives very nice bokeh, but it needs to be stepped down a bit for sharpness (my copy may not be the best, difficult to find in good shape) Canon 100/2 LTM Misfocused a lot with this, but that was all my fault and not the lens, this one is superb for portraits. Handles very nicely, and the bokeh and sharpness are both great. Canon 28/2.8 LTM Maybe it is a lens that HCB would approve (and Gary Winogrand, another famous photographer actually used one). Well, the smearing and vignetting of 35/2 is still nothing compared to this. Unfortunately I couldn't use this well, I guess I'll try to focus on the 35mm FL for now, and expand to this later on. It is still a very nice lens, felt great on the NEX5N. And there was the Minolta 200/4 that I brought, but it was a waste of space. Performs well, but a 200mm prime (with this aperture and MFD) is not that useful overall unfortunately. I can see why a lot of wedding shooters who shoot primes use a 35, 85 plus 135 plus a wide angle, it is a very nice set to use. Overall I would say the A7II is a terrific moment catcher/stealer. Battery life is not as bad as I thought (maybe with AF it would be a different story), the grip feels great (if it was a little bit taller it would be perfect), and the SteadyShot compensated the mildly drunk condition rather well (but not the misfocusing or framing or other rookie mistakes). It should perform even better with OSS lenses or those that can pass distance information to support 5-axis (instead of the 3rd party glass, where it is only 3-axis) Even the built in mics are surprisingly decent, and better than the original A7 (same as the RX10?) as well as the much better XAVC-S codec, but the sensor feels a little dated (could have gotten the D750 sensor but then it wouldn't be positioned as 'entry level FF'). The A7S sensor in this body or a touch-screen to quicken the focus magnifying cannot come soon enough. But this camera even with its faults is already way more capable than I am, whatever the next event will be, I will pay a lot more attention to framing and other amateurish mistakes and I will be less drunk as well. (Sorry if it was too long.)

Use thick pieces of expanded polystyrene like what's in the Stax original packaging. Never had a problem with those.

White vs yellow lines on the cable just like on the headphones

It could just be a publicity stunt. From twitter: Oisin Tymon ➿ @TymonOisin · 17h17 hours ago To put things straight,There was a bit of a scuffle and shouting about some sausage rolls Jeremy told me to fuck off that's it

Happy B-Day!

http://www.theverge.com/2015/2/19/8068465/sony-memory-card-premium-sound-sr-64hxa

So this is the transformer of the SRA3S that I mentioned earlier, is it 230V compatible? Thanks!

The Sennheiser HD250 Linear series are still the best for me (Mk1 slightly better than the Mk2, but both are very good) Great isolation comfort and most importantly, sound quality. As long as the factory earpads are available (I heard they might be discontinued soon) I can wholeheartedly recommend them. Probably not that common in the US, but with the current EUR-USD exchange rate they are an even better bargain than before, beating other closed headphones costing many times as much (imho, of course)

I have an SRA-3S on the way, and from the description it will probably needs a bit of refurbishment. And since it is a 100V unit, I would like to ask if there is a transformer that might work instead of the factory one. Or if that does not exist, what kind of 230-100V voltage converter should I buy? Thank you in advance.

Under the skin the Windows 8 is better, but the interface is absolutely terrible. I will continue using the 7 until the 10 comes out (and maybe when they get a SP1 out), there's just nothing really wrong with it right now.

Happy belated Birthday, Todd!

This is an obvious scam, it popped up many months before as well (possibly the same guy)

The EVF is not the best, unfortunately. And it is a bit weird that the screen is still fixed. And of course it never uses the full size of the sensor, so it is not that much bigger than a 1-inch. Otherwise it should be very nice, especially if the lens and video quality turn out to be as good as expected.

Probably not that much difference in terms of noise when having a similar exposure. But the Ricoh lens is a fair bit sharper (especially comparing both wide open), as it should be for a prime lens vs. a zoom. The upcoming Panasonic LX8 will use a 1-inch sensor and might bring a big improvement in terms of low light AF (now down to -4 EV like GH4 and FZ1000) and a 5-axis stabilization added as well. But I wouldn't be surprised if they price it above the RX100 III in exchange...

SR-003 (or maybe the slightly older cheaper Lambdas SR-202 or Nova Basic, or Pro Classic, etc.)

Great match

Germany matches are good because they attack & score, but usually get a few goals as well. That could be the end of them at some point

It is not a new rule, there is always a thin line between going as fast as possible and keeping it on the track. Two wheels slightly off is fine, four is not but maybe I am wrong. Could be track specific, and if it is, the drivers are well aware of that. It applies during racing as well, although usually they only get a few warnings.

It should be alright as long as it hasn't been abused. If it does go wrong then it is a bit fiddly to repair than the later version Mk1s as the cable entry is a bit more difficult to access for repair (reason for the better sealing) but it still possible. As long as you avoid putting any tension on the cable entry (e.g. stepping on the cable and pulling it) it should be fine. So don't worry about it. One thing you might want to do is check if the channel balance is perfect.