Yes, it is a custom pot, which I've found out the hard way, when I received a 717 which got damaged during transit...

It is just the non-feedback for short (non-nfb to be precise, but whatever). The Sig is not modified in any way (but it needed a fair bit of cleaning and I put the new mesh inside the old pads to avoid touching those metal grilles)

Well, after just 6 hours of runtime the 727 blew a fuse. But after replacing it, it seems to work fine without any issues (which is good, because there was only one piece in the shop), so not sure what caused that in the first place. But now I avoid using that cheap power distributor just to be safe and plug it directly to a different outlet, the DAC also acted funny a few times in the past, until I moved that to a different outlet. Maybe I will get something decent after I move everything.

On 9/15/2010 at 12:13 PM, spritzer said:

Now here is what you have to do to fix the amp

While nothing more tactful for a newbie to do than resurrect old threads, i'm afraid above link is dead; if anyone's capable of re-uploading, it'd be greatly appreciated.

And sincere apologies.

 

* Am looking for an amp and a Carbon's out of my reach for now, have thus been searching for used SRMs; currently leaning towards either a used T1 that will be modified as shown in a different thread here, or a used 727.

(regarding the instructions/illustration, i lack the knowledge to grasp what needs be done, but have someone that does.. had i the image to show them. Unless of course the schematic from Arthrimus [page 3] is all i'd need forward?)

picture attached

Here is how I did the first one:

You're very kind, thank you both

Really appreciate it.

 

(and here's to hoping one day i'll get to email about a Carbon. There's this bank i've my eye on..)

Quick question: replacing R21 and R23 with 300k ohms, connecting them to the 3rd and 10th slot out, removing R22 and R24 and replacing R5, R6 with 200 ohms should work with the PB-302, right?