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Arthrimus

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    112
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About Arthrimus

  • Rank
    Limited Edition Bronze Participant

Profile Information

  • Location
    Between a pair of Lambda Signature (:o) drivers.
  • Interests
    Electrostatic Headphones. Normal Bias Lambdas.
  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Occupation
    Security Advisor
  • Hobbies
    Stax or die!
  • Headphones
    STAX SR-Lambda Normal Bias, STAX SR-Lambda Signature, STAX SR-Lambda Nova Signature, STAX SR-002, STAX SR-X MKIII, STAX SR-5
  • Headphone Amps
    STAX SRM-727 (spritzer mod, normal bias mod),STAX SRM-002, STAX SRM-1 MK2
  • Sources
    Schiit Bifrost Uber, Sony Playstation SCPH-1001 modified output stage.
  • Other Audio Gear
    Normal bias Lambda is best Lambda.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. My 727 has that same transformer. It's a pity, I have to use a step down transformer.
  2. This circuit is universal it has a bidirectional 100v Zener Diode on the input that limits the voltage to 100v for the multiplier so it can work worldwide. It's basically Stax's SRD-7 Pro circuit, with a couple of components reorganized to fix their mistake of putting R103 and R104 before C107 and C108 instead of after. Z101 can be substituted with 2 back to back unidirectional 100v zener diodes if a bidirectional one can't be found. I've used a pair of 1N527 for this. Also you can sub 1N4007 diodes for D101-D106.
  3. This is what you want. I've built it several times. Only issue is R103 and R104 should be 4.7m. You probably want to replace the bias circuit in the WEE entirely if you want to be safe.
  4. Now that all fear of taking apart Lambda drivers is gone I went out and acquired a Lambda Signature with channel imbalance. Drivers came apart just as easily (not incredibly easy) as my LNS driver. Recoated and singing beautifully. Lambda collection intensifies!
  5. A very very thin coat of contact cement.
  6. I used Endust antistatic gel. It's the same stuff I used to recoat my SR-5s a couple of years ago and it's held up fine.
  7. Well... The channel imbalance is gone. Thanks for the help Pirx and DefQon. Your posts gave me just enough information to get confident. The driver split apart just as expected and the recoat went without incident. They're singing properly for the first time since I've had them!
  8. While that doesn't fill me with confidence, I might take a crack at it if there are no other options. Can you explain the process you used for success?
  9. I've got a question for the great Stax minds here on Head-Case. My SR-Lambda Nova Signatures have had minor channel imbalance from the day I got them almost a year ago. Since then the imbalance has not gotten any worse so I believe them to be stable. Obviously recoating the drivers is not realistically possible, but I was wondering if anybody had any ideas for a method of electrically attenuating the louder driver to match the quieter one without having split volume control on the amp. It would be awesome if I had a solution that wouldn't require L/R adjustment on the amp or source. The exact electrical properties of electrostatic headphones elude my understanding so I really don't know.
  10. No doubt, but it's the apex of soldering. You can actually pick up retired factory production line Metcal systems for dirt cheap on ebay, that's how I got my soldering station and deslodering gun.
  11. I haven't started building my board yet, but the pitch on the regulator appears to be about the same as tsop40 and some qfp packages I'm used to soldering/desoldering. I'd recommend positioning the regulator on the board and holding it in place with tweezers. Flood the area with no clean flux, then with a fine chisel tip try to tack down one corner of the regulator, then move to the opposite corner, adjust the positioning if necessary then tack that corner down. Reflux the chip and load your tip with solder then drag it accross the remaining sides of the chip until you have all contacts soldered. If you have any bridges, then reflux the chip, clean your iron and drag it across any side of the chip that has bridges. Repeat as necessary until you've cleared all shorts, reapplying flux as needed. I personally only like to use hot air for removing large packages and reworking BGA packages. I really don't think it's any good for soldering projects like these. A reflow oven would be much better for this, but my personal preference is always hand soldering if possible. EDIT: Now that I look at the regulator a little better, hot air might actually be the way to go. I didn't realize that there was actually a pad on the underside of the chip. Solder paste and hot air is probably the best bet for this one. [whisper] Ditch Hakko... buy Metcal...[/whisper]
  12. I think we can all agree that, all other things being equal, not learning how to properly shoot cannot possibly be less dangerous than learning how to properly shoot.
  13. .45 ACP pros: 1.It's cool. 2.It's fun to shoot. .45 ACP cons: 1.It's large and thus firearms that use it have lower magazine capacity than 9mm. Substantially so. 2.It's generally more expensive than 9mm to train with, and training is very important. My thoughts .45 acp and 1911s: Cool gun, cool round. Great to have in a collection, but if you're looking to buy a gun for protection I'd look elsewhere. The low ammunition capacity of 1911s is a huge hindrance to their usefulness for personal protection. They are fine machines, but they are more complex and thus somewhat more failure prone than more modern designs. There are many things about the 1911's design that John Browning himself later reworked into a simpler, better handgun in the form of the Browning Hi-Power. I've owned Berettas, Sigs, Smith and Wessons, and 1911s and honestly the best handguns I've ever owned, the ones I shoot the best, that have been the most reliable, and that I use for personal protection both as concealed carry weapons and as nightstand weapons are CZ-75 variants chambered in 9mm. The CZ-75 and it's offspring, in my opinion, are the most comfortable, elegant, accurate and reliable service weapons you can buy.
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