omendelovitz

Unfortunately, Rhydon would not get much or any cooperation from the bureaucratic bohemoth that is Canada Post. Chances are they won't update the tracking until it's delivered; I highly doubt the item is stuck anywhere in the postal system on the delivery side (might be stuck in customs, though).

It's now Sunday, what's the verdict!?

hmmm... I figured the way I ranted in Dr.Arthurwellian inanity kind of gave it away. Note to self: use more emoticons in future...

Ed, so was I.

um...Justin, actually, electrons only travel @ about 10% the speed of light - which is why Ken used 18AWG cryologically treated Oxygen free 24K gold large gauge non-stranded wire soldered with 99.999999999999% silver. Only such a high quality connector can handle the 90 degree turn. After all, the signal impedance imposed by a RA plug is much greater, relatively speaking. ALO's optical cables, in contrast, can warp around 90 degree turns unbuffered. As it turns out in the end, Ken used the straight Canare plugs as he found it helped relieve the signal bottleneck caused by the narrowing on RA plug openings...

I'm not surprised this is linked to KB. Honestly, the man is all marketing IMO. He knows that bigger is better in most people's eyes (especially newbies) and takes advantage of the information assymetry. I'll be the first to admit that the mini-mini LOOKS top of the line, but also know that it is wayyyyy overkill. Justin, does the jack break itself or does it actually rip the solder joints? Either way I don't envy your situation. Best of luck with that - given the nature of the business, it's better to eat the cost and move on than have some peeved customer trash your work and your quality (baseless as it would be).

Can someone lead me to more info on the subject? I googled what I hoped would be some good keywords to get me to a thread or something... no luck

ROTFLOL;D

was there any other benefit to J's modules other than power? I was always curious as to what they were designed to do...

NWT, no update yet. I heard from Raffy that Nick isn't even answering his phone since the meet so I'm still in limbo. I think Skylab has left Nick20 some bad feedback or at least a warning post in his FB on the other site. The worst part about this is that Skylab was administering the loaner program for us b/c he's a good guy and shipping is reasonably b/w USA locations (shipping from up here in Canada adds a layer of PITA that could have dissuaded some from participating in the program) - in any case, it's all academic now. I'm still holding out hope that Nick20 has been ill and will show up again in the near future. we'll have to wait and see. Cheers! Oriel

If you can show me a better looking, properly fitting outer parts for the amount of money our current externals cost, not only will I change the look, I'll thank you for the help! Other than buying large volume, expensive parts from east Asia, I've found nothing that meets the needs otherwise.

aesthetic points noted, all, but for this unit we're sticking with the cheap, reliable and awesome sounding motif. Future releases will improve in the looks dept., but the niche we looked to fill here is similar to the 'xin' model, but with good service and proper customer care. For fancy looking units that trade SQ for looks, and/or cost a pretty penny (but sound awesome), other makers can be consulted. Remember the 197x Honda Civc? How about the Hyundai Pony? - one has to start somewhere... Peter's already playing with a newer design that will be more expensive, have a lower noise floor, and better dynamic response; it will also have more power output and will look better, I promise.

I'll keep that in mind, LOL. AFAIK, Peter and I won't get near that as Peter doesn't want to touch UL and/or sell high V apps while we're this two man crew operation;)

Nate, I agree totally - problem is, that was the only switch we could find that fit the price bill and the size. We had a much nicer switch originally, that fit the price range, but in a design misstep (one of only a few, to Peter's credit), Peter didn't consider the switch size - when we mounted it, it protruded too far and flexed the protoboard. The only other option would have been mounting the switch higher on the amp, which would look just as ugly b/c of alignment assymmetry. There are always trade-offs, Vince...

I'll see what I can arrange for you. Right now Skylab over at the other site has my KICAS as he loaned his Caliente to Nick20 for a fledgling loaner program - as murphy would have it, Nick20 (who has great feedback and community participation) is MIA - until we can get the amp back from him, my loaner program died during birth:mad:. Needless to say I'm not happy about the situation (though there may be a good reason behind Nick20's disappearance that will only reveal itself in time) and am a little hesitant about future loans, as you can imagine.

start your research here: World Electric Power Guide Most computer and electronic equipment have built in voltage adapters (i.e. universal voltage) and others have switches (e.g. some PC power supplies) that can be adjusted from 115V to 230V to cover worldwide voltage systems. In these cases, I'd suggest getting a local power cord that fits the power supply input; that should cover it. It's best to check the power supply section (i.e. the wall plug or the PSU input section on the equipment) of each unit to see what their specs are; most of the time with electronics you'll see "~100-240V, 50-60 Hz" printed on the power supply or wall plug (in which case you just need a plug adapter). Other times you will notice a switch (usually a red colour) that moves b/w 115 and 230 V settings - these will usually need a power cord change (again, no big deal). What you want to do is inspect the equipment and avoid taking units where the power supply reads "120V...60Hz". These units are designed for use in North/Central America only (for the most part), and WILL have some trouble even with a good transformer - most likely it will work for awhile (even if not exactly like it did in the USA), then just die an early death (irons, vacuums, microwaves, etc. usually follow this pattern). Here's an example - specs taken from Apple's Imac page: Electrical and operating requirements [*]Line voltage: 100-240V AC [*]Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz, single phase [*]Maximum continuous power: 200W (20-inch models); 280W (24-inch model) [*]Operating temperature: 50

Hi all, I've finally had a chance to update our website to version 2.0 with more information, pics and various updates. There have been questions and queries about our amps and who we are so feel free to look us up @ www.purityaudio.biz. Post your questions and comments here and I'll be glad to respond ASAP. Oriel

Ken, you're cousin should be careful as suspect quality may not be the only contribution to fried componentry. Keep in mind that many places in the world (Korea included, I'm pretty sure) run on 220V, 50 Hz AC systems. This means that even through your high quality converter/transformer, you're not adjusting the delivery frequency - this typically leads to under-volting (not a real word) and over-currenting (also not a real word), which will overheat parts and is a fire hazard if you're using power cables designed for 60 Hz systems (thinner wire is used). I hope this helps. Oriel

D5000's stock aren't really worth the money. I bought them on impulse and regretted it until I saw markl's mod thread and tried the mod. I now like them and sold my GS1k's, et.al - the improvement was that good. I'm actually just finishing the last touches on the mod now (originally modded all but the driver face w/all those little holes) as the last bit of bass fartiness was still observable on poorly recorded (e.g. sting)/live recorded materials. I imagine they'll improve again with this final tweak (what wouldn't after applying all that damping:palm:) and will work out well overall. The GS1k's were still slightly better (more transparent sounding), but with their bass at higher volume issue and their cost, the D5000's modded are an improved and cheaper substitute. So far, no dynamic can I've met yet (and I've met more than a few) at any price (no R10's ever heard) get everything right. I'm definitely tempted by the stax side of the force, but considering my "profession", I have to stick with dynamics and have to wait to afford a nice pair of electrostats... P.S. - it looks like Foster/Fostex do a lot more than just the Denon cans - I see some Creative, Panasonic and Cowon earbuds in their lineup, LOL.

our amps are all discrete design. I thought I had mentioned that somewhere on our website. I think it is also posted on tbonner1's review of our amp on HF. And to answer the OP's question directly - it does not suck;)

no, it was a joke - Burston "discrete op-amps" are modules that are dip-8 compatible and supposedly (only seen them on the internet) all discrete. Edit: I didn't notice the reference KG and discrete design when I posted above joke. Please excuse my dumb assed-ness.

wait a sec, what about Burston Audio's discrete op-amps?:rolleyes:

now I can see why you're banned, LOL. I can use a dmm, just limitedly. I didn't design the circuit, my partner did (read aboout 10 posts back); I redesigned it with him for production, spec'd new parts, tested comparison parts, etc. It's funny - I hear simpletons on the other site and in other genres of life complaining about the price of amps when they tally up a limited list of parts and claim that a $700 amp costs $100 in parts at the most. One can easily forget on the other hand that just because someone is a whiz with electrical and electronic components that they're not necessarily suited to dealing with the practicalities required in transitioning from DIY to production and business concerns. 3 cases in the Headphone Amp industry come to mind before I can bat an eyelash. Back to the original thread topic: Thanks for all the input, everyone. I'll defnitely look into your suggestions, and I'll definitely wait before I jump into a B22, unless my partner wants to babysit me in the project;D.

Having 'slept on it', I now realize that first thing to do is take a course in using a multi-meter (know how to use one basically, but I've blown SMT resistors/caps trying to measure current flow through them:palm:) and practice comparing schematics to board layouts w/o any help. I knew I should have gone into electrical instead of mechanical back in school!!!

I wouldn't expect you to - shipping would be a bitch (I'm in Canada) and my PSU only does NA voltage. She's a beaut. Maybe I should buy Thrice's unit off Rockhopper while he still has it there;)