kevin gilmore

You should be able to cram it into anything with a 14 x 14 x 3 inside dimension, but it will be tight. Bigger would be better. Lots and lots of holes top and bottom. I now know why the srm727 sounds like shit... Whoaboy...

This is not going to be a one time thing like the T2. There will be a call for board sets, and i will (or someone else will) do a board run of that many plus a few spares. Board set should be about $100.

I really want to use 2SA1968LS for the current sources. Then the entire amp would be isolated parts. Way easier. AND 100% head-fi proof. Even trevornetwork could build one and get it to work first time. (complete with plexiglass chassis) With ONsemi recently purchasing sanyo semiconductor, who knows what is going to happen. Not going to make boards that go instantly obsolete. I could use ixys parts instead. I may have to. Plus there are other things throwing monkey wrenches into stuff. If anyone in japan can help... My good friend Jeff who is the supplier of the vehicle necessary to take 400 lbs of aluminum to the polisher... His mother of 90 years passed away last night at 7:40. So i'm going to be another week late on that. Maybe longer. At least 8 of the T2 chassis are fully finished, and the last 4 will be as soon as more top/bottom material shows up. Speaking of which, I ordered a bunch of .25 inch material for the kgsshv chassis. .5 inch material showed up, and the wrong kind of aluminum in addition, so that has to go back and try again. I understand why justin is late on a lot of stuff. And he is doing at least 25 times the stuff per week that i am. I'm off to pick up a very special package from japan courtesy of someone with a heart as big as all of iceland.

as far as i know the 2sk389 is a discontinued part, and while there are places that still have them, i see no reason to layout the board for that part anymore. Its setup for the lsk389 can and the individual fets.

Yep, first thing is hook up the working channel and make sure the output voltage is zero before doing anything else. If it really is zero, and you have some "el-crapo" headphones you don't care about, hook it up and see if it sounds ok. Pull the dead amp board out, and look for pieces of metal, or other things that don't look right. But if its shorting out the power supply completely, most if not all of the output transistors are completely toasted. (or the bias supply transistor, and or pot are trashed)

they lie. they continue to lie. In january they promised me samples. All i get is excuses. They continue to say the j109 does not meet specs. They refuse to tell me which spec it does not meet. There is another reason...

Japan Trend Shop | NoPoPo Eco Water-powered AA Batteries

If you like electrostats, find a pair of beveridge and fix them up. Come with direct drive tube amps running on 5kv. They need a really big room.

disconnect the power supply output to the amp boards, insert new fuse and see if it blows. If it does, its the power supply board (shorted diodes, or shorted caps) or a shorted transformer. If it doesn't blow hook up the boards one at a time.

this just in, birgir likes his new knob. C1 is a silver mica cap in the original. It lowers the differential gain after about 2 hz. Ties in with the differential servo to keep the outputs at the same voltage. i'm sure you could put a 250 volt cap in there. But the original is 500v. If one of the input tubes shorts out, you really could get the better part of 250 volts across that cap.

Sounds like the srx circuit with constant current sources. Done correctly it sure will sound good. But not on a single power supply. You don't want to run 12at7's at 600 volts. Still, its very simple.

i've done a water cooled power amp before. Very efficient. But you need a basement to put the haskris in. In fact you can use it to take more heat out of the room than the amp puts in.

All of that stuff came off the sector mass spec.. A Finnigan Mat 900. well over 1M$ 8 years ago. worth nothing today. The 3 pieces together drove the 4000 lb, 9 tesla water cooled electromagnet. This really would make a kickass quad mono, no feedback, ultra low output impedance single ended amplifier. The high voltage supply is from the FAB source on the same instrument. Makes a T2 look tiny.

here is the new rudistor power supply (+/-30 volts at 60 amps) http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/heatsinkpower.jpg and the quad mono output stage, 12 x 10 amp transistors per output in parallel. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/heatsinkquad.jpg the difference between the men and the boys is clearly the size of their power supply

As a matter of fact it IS 60 amps... pictures in a few hours. Busy day today.

Why those are the resistors to warm up the other resistors of course... Wait till you see the picture tomorrow...

well nikongod wanted a rudistor like amplifier with a lower output impedance... The center 6 resistors in the center are .1 ohms each, and in parallel. I'll show you the output section tomorrow

You mean like this... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/heatsinkload.jpg

As with everything else in this fucked up world of ours, continuing availibility of repair parts in the future is a real problem. For that reason i did not go with the 4D systems oled, which has already been end of lifed. What i need to do is find a display device that is in massive use to guarantee lots of replacement parts.

Seriously wrong form factor for that kind of thing. And it certainly is not cheap either. Now if i was going to turn it into a home theater controller, and do 8 channels of balanced... Then a 24 inch 16x9 panel would be about the right size.

What is the size of the psaudio... About 3.5 to 4 inches

So here is my comment on remote controls, after 20 years of trying to find the perfect one. The sony programmable, the pronto, the harmony, software for the palm, software for a few other things, and lately a crestron system. Every single one of them has serious design flaws. While i don't like a pile of remotes, i have yet to find a better alternative. I am still looking. None of the above seem to do as well a job on any particular device, than the original device does. Not sure why. The touch panel is also the display. The infrared control will be something with an absolutely standard and easily duplicatable control structure. If the touch panel software is written right, and it will be, the cpu that runs the thing goes to sleep unless there is something to do. Combined with latching relays that don't require power to keep activated. So all the magic crap is deactivated while you are listening to music. So i don't see how the cpu is going to cause any trouble.

A T2 case will be made from solid aluminum. Team overkill is in full swing. and a great line i used from college days. "No reason NOT to be excessive"

Correction... the screws that hold the heatsink brackets to the heatsinks are 3/8 long, not .5 long

So here is the current plan. I should have 8 sets of tops and bottoms done by next tuesday (then i'm out of material till i get some more) and the knobs by wednesday, then 8 sets will head off for polishing. When i get them back (3 to 4 weeks) i'll send half for anodizing because that is the batch size the guy wants, (another 10 days) and then 4 will be available. When he drops off the 4, i'll give him the next batch. After that there will be only one batch of 4 left. So who wants one of the next 4 chassis. And include which kind of stax jacks you want. PM's ok too.