kevin gilmore

I use a old sound technology unit. You adjust the signal generator to make the output come out to 0 db. So the position of the volume control is meaningless. You could set the volume knob at 50% and then have to turn up the generator to get back to 0 db. Correctly done, everything has to be relative to the main peak. This seems to be where many people generate unrealisticly low thd numbers from their RMAA tests. Without a carefully built attenuator, you cannot possibly measure an electrostatic amp.

have it shipped REALLY SLOW boat.

master machinist says that one of the two pieces is likely machined wrong. So get another arbor and if it falls out, then take the drill press back and get it replaced because there is nothing you would be able to do about it. No grease or lubrication unless there is some kind of rust problem. Warning, DANGEROUS, wear safety goggles. bolt down a vice to the table of the drill press. bolt it down very good. make sure the table is very tight. put the arbor in the vice. Turn on the power and slowly move the drill head to the arbor. Go REAL SLOW. When it finally grabs, turn it off quick.

I did the numbers, and if any of you really want the titanium knobs, i can do some. They will be $200 each. It would be about 6 to 8 weeks before i have the time to do them.

i'll talk to my master machinist tomorrow to make sure, but i think a light layer of oil is actually required. Not too many people have access to liquid N2... The prussian blue or equivalent is also a good idea, because if you see some really high spots then no amount of freezing or pounding is going to work.

One of the two surfaces i damaged, or has something stuck to it. Normally a little light oil on both surfaces, wipe dry and insert. A light tap should hold it in forever.

I'll be closely watching for that. I do have examples of the same black over the last 6 months and i can't tell the difference. At least its a bottom panel which would never be visible anyway.

.1% on the power supply is more than sufficient, but hey go for the better part. In other news the anodizer found the 4 missing panels. That he never anodized...

I'm in for 100

Well the chassis are drilled for a #10 Which is .1900. So a M8 definitely will not fit (roughly .250). Should be easy to drill out the holes. And for the front two feet on the power supply only, you have to cut the shaft to the size of the nut otherwise it would hit the circuit board.

Replacement parts delivered to anodizer. Going to have some high power liquid refreshment and then measure my BP.

For whatever reason the really good polishers don't do anodizing, and vice versa. This all has to be local, and both of these companies are real good at what they do. Very different machining and processes. Really don't want to go into the anodizing company ever again. Boiling vats of boric acid. Lots of chemicals that just can't possibly be good for you. The fihisher for the flat parts has this absolutely huge sanding/buffing thing. Really neat, and something else i would rather not mess with. The heatsinks are polished by hand. Hopefully another 10 days or less to anodize the bottom panels. I think people should wait until its done, and ship in one box. But for me personally i would take it in two shipments just to get working on it that much quicker. Then soon, like next week i will ship the next batch for polishing and finishing.

I have a receipt from the anodizer for accepting 16 heatsinks and 16 tops/bottoms and 16 fronts/backs So he will be paying for the missing stuff. Or he has to find the stuff. I really don't care. justin might have some more of the heatsink. Otherwise i have just enough heatsinks to match the fronts and backs. If justin does another batch of heatsink there will be plenty more. This time i will order extra. If people want me to ship what i have now, i can do that, the amp works fine without its bottom. That way you can start assembling now. All you need to do assembly is the fronts/backs,heatsinks and power supply bottom.

Found the four heatsinks in someone elses delivery... Can't find the 4 amp bottoms yet, so 4 more will be at the anodizer later today... You would think it would be simple enough to keep order A seperate from order B... Especially when they were different colors... And yes, all of my stuff is the same color.

Now i'm downright hostile. No amp bottoms... Will ship out 4 more bottoms and 4 more heatsinks today. Inu and Birgir parts will ship today.

Delivered by courier. I did get all 16 of the fronts/backs, so i have to trace down what the hell happened. Don't care about the tops and bottoms, i can make more. The heatsinks are a bigger problem. It is likely that they are sitting in another crate that got misplaced. Phonecalls in 1.5 hours. Just can't get good help these days. No one gives a shit.

Just great... One of the chassis is missing...

The 4 chassis are all back from anodizing... So 2 will ship today, and 2 will ship tomorrow. Justin wants to do another heatsink run. Which would mean that more T2's would be available. (yep lets prolong the pain and agony) So how many people would be interested in a second run of T2's ?

i'm going to verify that the hole size on the T2 will take an M8 but this is definitely what you want for the T2's

anodized parts will be delivered to me wednesday morning, so i will start shipping this batch wednesday/thursday (subject to size limits of vehicle, which should probably only be 3 of the four at once) Who wants the next batch which could be either 4 or 6 chassis. Voltron/Icarium, you can do one each for now... Makes things a bit easier.

Its just the pot. I don't even remember the impedance of the rk50 i put in. Actual input impedance of the amp not including the pot is 330k.

Good news, the batch of 4 just came back from polishing, and its better than before and just great. Should be at the anodizer by noon, then maybe another 10 days. That hammond case is going to be great for the KGSSHV... As long as its 13 x 16 on the inside

In about 6 weeks i can make another batch of stax jacks. Should be enough for everyone that wants them.

you should see the pictures of skylab's place. back yard 2 feet under water, basement many feet under water. Pictures posted over there somewhere. The records are absolutely cleanable. The sooner you get them into a bath tube with room temperature water, the better.

Well for example the fqpf3p50 seems to be out of stock at newark,digikey,mouser... So just because every single part is listed as a mouser part, it may do no good. ksc5042 has been discontinued, mouser is getting one more batch in, then that is done too. Exstata will have to change for the future anyway. thermal breakers are a real good idea on exstata's. Not a bad idea on a lot of other stuff too.