kevin gilmore

No deadline on items like that. I would order material as necessary. And i was not paying attention on R50... Thought you were talking about the 500 volt supply. which is 490k.

this pic should do everything for you http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2power3.jpg R50 sets the output voltage. so you probably want to go to the standard value of 287k which should be a tad under 500 volts, but 300k would certainly work. All of the .6 inch resistors are supposed to be .5 watt. will update the schematic when i get home if i remember. pick load resistors out of your junk bin, and test at say 60% of max power. make sure they can handle the power, or dump in a plastic pail filled with water and stay away.... The 47 ohm resistors are just to ground the input filament. Would be the same as having a center tap on the transformer... In the middle you can see the bare wire connecting circuit board ground to the chassis nut close to it. Don't forget this.

no spare heatsinks. But high probability of a complete extra chassis set without a matching circuit board. Don't want to sell the heatsinks without the fronts/backs as i only have complete matched sets.

allopurinol is cheap and very effective for most people. uloric is better, but is currently very expensive even with good insurance. There are many ways to get the protein you need without eating red meat. i've cut my uric acid levels by 75% over the past 5 years. Not fun. Try to stay away from the steroids. The more you take them, the more you need them. And they cause eyesight and liver problems.

The problem with this is that these scales are designed for 75 lbs or more. So my 200 gram calibration weights are kind of useless. Besides which, if its under i'm happy, and if its over, they would not give a crap about it. But it might be interesting if i can find a calibration weight in the 10 pound range. Actually i have a 100 oz silver bar that would be perfect, just need a few more.

fedex standard, wheeling il to sydney for 40 lbs $459 (7 days) $506 for 3 days. Overnight, it costs more than what is inside. By the way the correct tracking numbers begin with EG the CP numbers are the customs numbers

The problem with internet postage (i have a suitable printer) especially with stuff going outside the country which all 4 of these did, is all the customs forms, and the weight. I know my scale is accurate, as it matches the one at work, and the package really is 39.5 lbs. But i got lucky and got the really messed up scale at usps which weighed the packages at 33 and 35 lbs (they are absolutely identical in contents) and therefore saved a few bucks. So now in total (not counting gas) but counting everything else including bubbles and the packaging for the boards, i'm down to a loss of a little less than $8. Fedex seems to be in the other direction. Their scale always weighs over the real weight. I wonder if that is deliberate. At least fedex inside the usa is going to be only about $40 instead of the package to Australia which was $235. And fedex international is way out of line price wise. Birgirs package was even higher priced.

So i got cussed out by this guy who needed at least 10 more feet from my open door to pass me with his 10 year old van, throwing me the finger et all. In the designated loading/unloading area. I did take my persuader out of the trunk, but decided not to go after him. At 40 lbs per package, the car definitely did not handle right (2 in the trunk, 2 in the right passenger seat) or at least not what i was used to.

4 chassis shipped. Only 45 minutes for the wonderful united states postal service to do 4 packages. (all of which were international) you would think that being able to type would be a requisite for the job... I'm going to make a few more tops and bottoms (have everything else) and then the next batch goes off for polishing and finishing. Hopefully the anodizer can actually count this time. Birgir should have his knobs soon

4 chassis packed up and will ship today. tracking numbers in a few hours. The knobs are less than acceptable, and i will be replacing them at my cost. Will be drilling and tapping the small end to put a screw in it for the anodizing. Then no dings on the face.

Someone just asked again. the 2sc3381-BL's work just fine. That is what i'm using.

If you can tolerate the size, what you want is a pair of Belle Klipsh, or the all horn Bozaks. Both of which are on the kind of large size. If you don't have a perfectly symetrical room, then khorns are not going to work. (and 2 perfect corners)

Just got the call that the anodizing is done. I could force the issue and get it today but i think its best to wait for the guy to deliver monday morning. So i will be shipping the stuff on monday and tuesday. Unless there is a hurricane, or 24 inches of snow.

i was thinking REALLY SLOW BOAT. As in one guy in a rowboat. what do 1000 of those weigh... about 300 lbs??

Yep, taper on both ends. I have one of those on my emco... Never has come apart. You might consider a very thin coating of regular super glue... (not the void filling stuff) If you are never going to need to take it apart...

won't fit. You would have to drill the thing out. Given the kind of plastic its made from it will likely break.

I use a old sound technology unit. You adjust the signal generator to make the output come out to 0 db. So the position of the volume control is meaningless. You could set the volume knob at 50% and then have to turn up the generator to get back to 0 db. Correctly done, everything has to be relative to the main peak. This seems to be where many people generate unrealisticly low thd numbers from their RMAA tests. Without a carefully built attenuator, you cannot possibly measure an electrostatic amp.

have it shipped REALLY SLOW boat.

master machinist says that one of the two pieces is likely machined wrong. So get another arbor and if it falls out, then take the drill press back and get it replaced because there is nothing you would be able to do about it. No grease or lubrication unless there is some kind of rust problem. Warning, DANGEROUS, wear safety goggles. bolt down a vice to the table of the drill press. bolt it down very good. make sure the table is very tight. put the arbor in the vice. Turn on the power and slowly move the drill head to the arbor. Go REAL SLOW. When it finally grabs, turn it off quick.

I did the numbers, and if any of you really want the titanium knobs, i can do some. They will be $200 each. It would be about 6 to 8 weeks before i have the time to do them.

i'll talk to my master machinist tomorrow to make sure, but i think a light layer of oil is actually required. Not too many people have access to liquid N2... The prussian blue or equivalent is also a good idea, because if you see some really high spots then no amount of freezing or pounding is going to work.

One of the two surfaces i damaged, or has something stuck to it. Normally a little light oil on both surfaces, wipe dry and insert. A light tap should hold it in forever.

I'll be closely watching for that. I do have examples of the same black over the last 6 months and i can't tell the difference. At least its a bottom panel which would never be visible anyway.

.1% on the power supply is more than sufficient, but hey go for the better part. In other news the anodizer found the 4 missing panels. That he never anodized...

I'm in for 100