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DouglasQuaid

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Posts posted by DouglasQuaid

  1. Those geekrias are probably the same as a set I ordered on ebay a year or two ago.  There are dozens of postings for the same product.  The center protrusion flattens out pretty smoothly once you've used them a while.  These are comfier than I remember flats ever being.

    I haven't purchased flats in a very long time, so I can't do a sound comparison.  I want to say that these have a similar distance to the ear.  Total thickness seems to be 20mm, with the pad thickness above the driver being 10mm.

    Anyone out there with a set of calipers able to measure out the thickness of TTVJ flatpads?

     

    edit:  Thickness measurements are of a used set while on the headphones.  If I find my spare set, I'll give them a slap on the arse with my calipers.

    • Like 1
  2. On 7/20/2020 at 7:40 PM, Dusty Chalk said:

    I guess.  Don’t follow your reasoning.  Brent crashes into things, there’s no “like” about it.  He just does.

    I like to call it tactical deceleration.

     

    @Aimless1 FYI... I've lent my KZ-ATE to my nephew a few times to use on his switch.  They're not a permanent solution by any means, but I haven't heard any complaints and they are under $20.

    • Like 1
  3. So a year has passed since anyone mentioned the Soekris.  Has anyone else here purchased one and form an opinion yet?

    NT-503 looks temptingwith today's ebay promotion.

     

    edit:  I'm a dope and the soekris has its own thread.  Thanks for your input, gepardcv.

  4. 9 hours ago, MexicanDragon said:

    As DQ pointed out to me, the 15$ difference shrinks to 7.70$ when the cheapest shipping is added in. I'm 95% sure they used the exact same picture for both pads as well, so I'm rather curious myself.

    Where is @screaming oranges to buy a few pairs when you need him?

    **BRENT**

    I like to point things out.  It's what I do.  While I think flats are pricey, anyone already planning to pick up a replacement soon wouldn't be spending that much more in grabbing one of these. I'll stick with my cheap-bastard HD414 pads while they are still about $10 apiece.  Even if you need to buy a knife to cut the holes, you're still saving a bunch of dosh.

    9 hours ago, Voltron said:

    You mean the Dairy Queen is a real person who advises you on consumer matters?

    Consumer matters, automotive matters, anti-Colin matters

    • Like 1
  5. Did any of you goons buy into this one during the kickstarter?  I was a bit wary of buying into a game so early in development, but the scope's looking pretty damn big now, and it's still in alpha.  It's a huge space simulator in a huge persistent universe, but it also has some more simplified sub-games like arena combat and space racing.  There's a free weekend going on right now, so I'll probably fly around and shoot at junk.  It's a bit of a behemoth download at 27gb, so my condolences to any of you recently inflicted with Comcast.

    https://robertsspaceindustries.com/ for more info on what the game is about. 

    It won't be listed on steam or origin, since it's basically a company that started with a kickstarter and has pulled in something like 100mil in crowdfunding.  There's no publisher to breathe down their backs to cut content to make arbitrary deadlines, but also no one to force them to cut back on hookers and blow so things can get done.  Hence, you need to sign up on their website:  https://robertsspaceindustries.com/enlist.

    My referral code is STAR-HQPD-Q546 if you want some free in-game-dosh.  Just enter it in on the sign up page.  If you have a buddy that already has the game and you think he's prettier than I am, feel free to use his code as you get the same benefit... though I won't get the fancy little go-cart.

     

    edit:  Free "weekend" is apparently expanded to last until the 8th.  Anyone want to do some junk in game let me know.  Game's pretty fun, but obviously incomplete.  Ship balance doesn't appear to be one of the dev concerns right now, so the pvp arena is a bit iffy.

  6. The Mk2 is pretty sweet, but maybe you can find a fresh used one for sale and sell the Mk1 to make up some of the cost?  I'd bet people will still pay $1000-1500 for a Mk1, when they previously were selling for $2K used before the Mk2 came out. Either way, the Mk1 was still a very good DAC.

     

    Not nearly desperate enough for the DSD upgrade, unless I can get the upgrade for about 2k (not paying 3k to essentially have refurb equipment of something no one I trust has auditioned).  I'll either do a swap for a mk2, or look for another dac (perhaps the m51 or the auralic vega).

  7. I wish i had jumped on the mk2 upgrade kit earlier.  Apparently they don't offer upgrade boards to the mk2 anymore.  They do have upgrade boards, but it's a friggin' $3k upgrade to some fancy new directstream dac (damn thing's 6k new).  That's a good bit of distance from what I wanted to spend.

  8. I still haven't bothered to put a pretty knob on my kgss.  It stilll has some undersized mouser knob I had originally planned to put on a little hammond case.  Perhaps I shall make it a plan to finish this one up before you build two new amps.

  9.  

    The current is fixed, I don't see why you couldn't use trimmers?
    Dial it up for winter, dial it down for summer...

     

    It's been a couple years since I've touched pcb software, but it shouldn't be much work to fit some pot legs between the current setting resistor.  That being said, it would probably be a heck of a lot safer to put a base resistor and have a trimpot after it.

     

    This is all assuming that the resistors at those positions can be measured while the board is populated.  If they can't, then this all moot and I'd need to use resistors and jumpers.  Either a selector jumper to choose between two resistors, or two resistors in series added together and a jumper to short one of them for higher current.  Again, the board's already pretty tight, so this might make things larger.

     

    It's been a while since I've dealt with transistor designs, but I don't believe that resistor sees more than 2V of potential difference and whatever current the resistor is set to.  If that's the case, then we might be able to get away with SMD resistors at these positions, perhaps the 3rd stage current source as well, and not have a significant change in the size of the board.  Please correct me if my assumptions are incorrect with these values, as my transistor analysis is rusty.

     

     

    So a question for the group.  As we all know high voltage BJT's that can take the full force of the KGSSHV are going away quite quickly.  None are currently being made and I quite frankly don't see them making a comeback, certainly not as TO220 devices.  There is a new mosfet on the horizon but it's a poor substitute for the real thing.  With this in mind I used the mafia network to try and source some NOS and I've hit paydirt.  Now 2SC4686A's are all but gone but I've been offered another part which was clearly meant to be used in the same role, all specs identical plus some (like the output capacitance) are even better and it's fully isolated package too.  These are also guaranteed genuine and made in Japan. 

     

    Now the catch is that I have to buy a lot of them, thousands, and the end price is unknown though I hope it comes between 2-3$ when they would reach my hands.  The 4686A is currently at 4$ from Bdent and supply in Japan is all but run out.  I would naturally sell off my stash as needed to anybody building an HV so this would be enough for a few hundred new amps.  So does this make sense to anybody?   :-[

     

     

    I see no problem with that. 

     

    1. Are these alternate parts pin-compatible with the 4686A?

    2. I'll be down for a few sets, especially if they end up being used in another project.

  10. I was wondering how people would go about re-adjusting the offsets on their offboard amps.  Trying to adjust those pots with the board turned up 90deg seems far too easy to slip the screwdriver and cause some fireworks.  I'm assuming you'd need to lay the boards and sinks on their sides before doing any adjusting.
     

    Seems like a set it and forget it attitude is best for those builds.

  11. Perhaps the usage was misinterpreted.  It wasn't meant to be continually toggled while the amp is powered up.  Likely just used prior to powering up to run the amp at a lower bias for the angry summer months.  Though I suppose a jumper on the pcb would be much more effective. 

  12. How viable would it be to set up an amplifier to have multiple bias current settings?  The mechanics would be pretty simple, assuming the existence of small rotary switches that are rated for the voltage.  I'd like to assume that a 6-12" run of wire to a switch and back wouldn't cause any noise or instability, but I've seen lesser things cause problems.  I'd also be curious if zeroing the dc offset would be required for every bias change.

     

    This would mainly just be to tune down the current when the weather starts to get hot and nasty, then turn it back up when things cool down.  I have the feeling I'm grossly overestimating how big of a change in total power usage and heat generation this would actually make.

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