nopants

I'm expecting good results with the k401... but I realized the last amplifier I used with the k[4,5]0[0,1] was a little dot mk2 almost 10 years ago, damn

I'm actually kind of bummed out it doesn't require amplification, invalidates my multiamp build

Lamda Signatures are great at lower volumes, if I had a proper amplifier these would be going straight to the office. They seem to compress a bit dynamically when you drive them at higher volumes. Pads are peeling a bit off the frame, I never understood why they didn't opt for a non-adhesive solution like the omega series

if you can swing it I would switch to molex connectors. screw terminals seem to give me problems and they similarly limit the gauge of wires you can use. Not sure how the voltage ratings compare though

Hi Jim, are you planning on posting your power supply or is that only allowable after the express article?

Well I can't seem to find your item (not to mention in 115V), but I did come across this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/280W-Custom-spec-high-quality-R-Core-Transformer-any-voltage-/271865288825?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4c6f1879

Oh you're running it at 350V. What did you dial in the current at? Why did you used spring loaded connectors!

Some rifling through ebay: R80-56 0-6.3 X1 (2A), 320-0-320(80MA), 0-18 X2 (2A), 0-5（2.5A） Can the input stage work off 12V? Might have a few more options if so

Do you feel like it requires an amplifier? I'm eyeing this and also the r70x in this price bracket.

I think if I was going to stand off the resistors like that I'd probably have use some teflon tubing, otherwise I'd never get anything to line up. Great job, needs a (solid) platinum knob. Is there a switch built into your power inlet? What are the specs on your R-core? Very compelling if you got both the LV and HV windings in one package.

The box is amazing, great sense of spaciousness and fantasic noise floor. I think there were some headphones inside but I tossed those aside trying to get at the box

oh that's what your posts have been talking about this whole time? damn I feel like I solved a mystery so I guess there are either mini 5 pin xlrs or lemo connectors as the normal choices

The problem with that is that you need a breakout cable to go from 2x3pin to 4 pin...maybe it makes sense just to have a 5 pin at the amplifier and make dedicated breakout cables for everything?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SRA-12S-INTERGRATED-AMPLIFIER-AMP-SUPERB-CONDITION-WITH-HEAD-PHONES-/311359741409 almost a no brainer

Is there a way to convert to TRS from 4-pin XLR from this amplifier if it's always putting out balanced drive? Didn't really seem obvious to me without installing a BAL/SE switch

You can consider other things like super regulators or shunt regulators if you're that concerned. Might be interesting to see what the differences are. Kevin gave the current draw so it's pretty easy to dial in a shunt regulator. I have Salas Boards if you're interested. Diyaudio's store has the Super Regulator back in stock, I picked up a few boards.

jude got some early look at a new sennheiser closed headphone http://www.head-fi.org/t/766311/sennheiser-hd-630vb-review-first-impressions#post_11595230 I didn't read any of it but the headphone certainly looks nice. I want those pads for other headphones

Is the hum from the premade supplies a real issue?

That's what I used for swapping out the switching supply in the lavry da11. It's ok but as someone else mentioned the negative regulator just regulates ground, if that matteres to you.

It's pretty hard to gauge that just by feel, but I'll defer that to other people. I bought a torque driver for the T2 so I don't fuck that up

Are all of these switches created equal? I'm looking at some Chinese stuff and Bulgin/Schurter options and the price differences are almost silly

Are you using a torque driver to do this? I don't know how else you'd assess how you're actually screwing things (in/up). However I'll go ahead andl note that Craig Sawyers mentioned in another thread that thermal interfacing reduces the sensitivity to torque.

Is that an amber LED for the switch? It looks nice for a silver face, might copy that for the multiamp

thanks for the breakdown if the lsk389 is giving you trouble 2sk170s seem to work pretty well (also listed on the board iirc). I've used matched pairs and typically I don't experience issues, even when I forget to bond them for thermal tracking purposes. ymmv though