spritzer

If there is enough copper there to solder a wire to, then it can be fixed but I've come across some units which were beyond hope.

This is the 240V setting. If you wouldn't move the white wire the transformer would be set to 220V which isn't a great idea these days. That picture of the wires doesn't tell us anything as the windings entering the transformer are not visible. Just pull off the PCB or use a volt meter to measure between blue and brown and then green and purple. Should be a few ohms but if you have nothing... then the windings have been cut.

Remove both black jumpers, move the left hand white wire to the empty spot above the blue wire (so from brown to blue) and finally, put in a new jumper between gray and purple. Also, make sure the gray and blue wires actually go inside the transformer and aren't cut off. Either measure continuity between the next wires or remove the blue PCB on top of the transformer for a visual inspection.

The caps are in series. You can even use 350V caps in most cases...

It's been too long since I've had one here to be but sure but here is the schematic:

The 009BK was always the TOTL unit so they might just be moving to that direction. For me they were always the best 009's by a mile too

It is pretty much impossible to find the split volume controls but the quad RK27 pots are out there and they are a drop in replacement. You will need a new knob for it though.

The XLR mod doesn't change anything really, if there is a sonic improvement it really depends on the source if the different outputs are handled differently. The XLR just doubles the input voltage (though that is not set in stone either). To do the mod, just remove the resistor which grounds the gate of one half of the input fet and copy what's on the other gate.

If you have some transformers floating around, it would be simple enough to make a cheap linear supply to try out. Add some beefy caps in a CRC or CLC setup...

Shorting due to the flux becoming conductive over the years?

The mains traces are pretty close together and close to the output on the bottom so you might run into issues with that. I would at minimum move them to the other side of the board and add slots to further isolate them.

Why Stax does anything... is always up for debate but now they have gone into full bastard mode with 100V only transformers being sold in Japan. Not impossible to swap out the transformers but an utter pain.

Yup, pull it out and set it to 117V and it will work perfectly. Also, top tip... remove that 100V sticker and see what is underneath...

I've never seen a T1 or T1S without the voltage selector. Have you removed the bottom panel and looked?

I have my own custom made teflon ones in stock but not listed on my site.

Yup, adding capacitance is always a bad idea.

Yeah, the used prices are pretty nuts.

I also like the plastic stick on bumpers on the electrolytic caps so they don't short to the bottom panel...

I was sent this and it was posted on SBAF so one can expect the level of discourse over there: There is so much here that I don't even know where to start. First off, they claim this circuit is "unique"...well it isn't. Old as the hills this one, same as the old TubeCad stuff, the Rudistor amps, the prototype Schiit built, that Trilogy H1 piece of shit and I've been building similar amps for the last 15 years. Stax also released something similar in the 60's so no...not unique. The amp circuit is simple and works well enough for a cheap amp so nothing wrong with that. I also like that they used a CCS on the front end (though they claim it is on all stages but that's not true) but my issue is with the PSU and the bias supply. What an utter clusterfuck.... The circuit requires a bipolar PSU so with a center tap transformer the bias supply can be a bit tricky but simple to solve really. I just don't understand what the hell they did with that delay circuit. It's just adding tubes because... tubes? Makes no sense at all. The bias supply seems to be driven off a tap for some reason. Also, those ballast resistors look like RN55 units and they are nowhere near adequate for the job. Smaller issues, twisted output wires are a no no, not sure what's up with those output "sockets" and an unregulated heater supply is never a good idea. Still I like the colors. Might have to do something like that...

As it sits now, this will be a step down from the 252S.

I love the look of that Denon amp. Class A too...

There were pictures of him in a robe preaching to us mere commoners so yeah...

Funny enough I was buying some din plugs for the Monolith electrostatic headphones at the local store this week. They only found the metal ones and asked why I was insisting on the all plastic units... 😂

First time I heard it I wondered if Cavalli was on crack... then I saw his websites where he was a "leader of men"...

It's been quite a while since somebody has come in and told us to just ignore everything even close to negative because it "sounds good". Sure, good for you but those of us who have been here a while know that was also said about other amps which turned into an absolute clusterfuck so yeah, keep that in mind. So a couple of things things, this amp doesn't swing enough voltage to really work. Even the SRM-252S has +/-250V rails and that is really the absolute minimum for this role. Only the utter dog turd that is the SRM-D10 uses +/-200V rails but then again, the off the shelf opamps it uses can't handle any more. Now the issue is just how much volume are you using and is the amp clipping. Setting aside the issue of headroom, can the amp handle normal transient swings? Second, what does it bring to the table that a SRM-353X doesn't do and better?