spritzer

Did you check the offset and balance of the channels? It's odd that it acts up but clears up when it is just running on the charge stored in the capacitors. Might point to an over voltage situation somewhere or some part acting up when under full load.

That is correct except I'd move the white wire to the other empty hole as it would be connected through the jumper anyway.

Wait until you have your unit in hand as there are so many different versions of the 313

It was one of the Stax amps and he measured it as if it were a dynamic unit. When puzzled by the sheer stupidity of his findings he said he couldn't believe people thought this sounded good. Two things there that spring to mind, not listening at all and the sheer lack of technical know how needed to pull something like this off.

Indeed, you have no clue what you are talking about and you come to us... and expect what exactly? This isn't Head-fi where nobody has a clue what the hell they are looking at, we spot BS from miles away and shills as well. You may think this stuff is as good as it gets but for me that just points to inexperience more than anything else. Nothing wrong with that, everybody starts somewhere but barging in and claiming you have a clue what is going on... it's not a good look.

While I'm at it, here is the cable they use: Just took some quick picks with the phone, can't be arsed to spend any more time on this: So those are the cheapest XLR's money can buy and possibly the oddest cable I've ever opened. The signal is carried on those thin wires but the bias is on a massive copper mesh for some reason. Now somebody spent a lot of time making this but that doesn't mean any of it is a good idea. First off, the teflon is clearly very thin when the proper 600V stuff is not and in what world is it a good idea to have the highest current capacity for the bias wires? The bias supply is tied directly to the mains, if the bias resistors fail and all hell breaks loose... you don't want what is essentially a mains cable coming up to your head.

I tried to read that article... holy crap do you honestly believe those cables and idiotic footers make a difference? For fucks sake... Also first good point is build quality... sure. Thanks for the internal pics though as this thing sure is a hot mess. So you have a tube amp... and you could use that to directly drive the stators but nope, they went the worst of all worlds. They take a push pull amp, step that down to speaker level and then step it back up for the electrostatics. WHY!!!?? In what universe is that a good design choice, double up the transformers and cram it all in a small chassis... right next to the power transformer and the inductor. You would be much better off with a cheap tube amp off ebay (the China specials) and a SRD-7. That way there is at least some isolation. Same bias supply as the transformer box, despite this being a tube amp and thus safe, high voltage AC being present which is easy to step up. Hell, a dedicated tap off the transformer would suffice. I just love that one nut in the back right hand corner just not fully fixed. Shows the amount of care. All the same earthing issues as the other amps as it uses the 3D printed corner pieces which don't conduct.

I've seen detailed internal pictures of both of the other units and yeah... pure utter trash. Every corner has been cut, product which springs for ChangX capacitors... yeah they really care about quality. If I'm so wrong, post internal pictures and tell me how wrong I am using actual facts, not feelings.

Ahhh yes, the age old "ohh this model is way inferior to the others"... despite it having the same driver setup. The issue isn't down to voicing, it is the fundamental setup of the drivers, they just don't work. They are simply not stable so when you try to compensate for the lower sensitivity with more drive voltage, it all falls apart. Plenty of others have compared them in the Mafia and yeah... there are no favorable reviews to be found. One thing that should also be clear, none of these are actually amps, they are basic speaker amps driving the same transformers across the range. The transformers are ok, nothing more than that but the rest is just a dumpster fire. Now let's start with the truly dangerous stuff, none of the chassis is actually earthed or uses proper high voltage parts. Sure the back panel is earthed but the other 5 chassis panels are in no way electrically connected to it. Since they like to run non isolated bias a fraction of a millimeter away from the front panel... yeah this is a big problem. Then we have the whole fake XLR's from China being asked to carry 600VDC and high voltage AC though a cable which is a bad joke. It's actually worse than the Hifiman one and that says a lot... I can't remember if I ever posted a picture of it but I'll try to do that later. Reading something on HF? No... I don't waste my time on that unless there is solid technical background. Impressions are all but meaningless.

Amps are dangerous, the headphones aren't great... There is potential there but they just didn't get the point.

I wouldn't touch any of these, they are utter trash, all of them.

Just check the offset and balance, if they are within spec (+/-20VDC) then it should be fine.

1.6A should be fine and you can always measure the resistance of the windings. There should be a resistance reading when measuring from one end of the windings to the other when they are set to 240V.

Looks good to me and not sure about the fuse as that is some silly audio grade fuse...

Yeah, those are the one Milos was working on.

For actual 220VAC line voltage, feel free to move the white wire back to its former position. The rest of Europe is pushing well above 240V so that's what I always set the amps to.

I would always use isolated wires for mains use and the bias shouldn't drift much but who knows with the age of the unit/capacitors/tubes.

Yes, the gray links need to be removed. You can use one of them to make the new connection.

40th is fine for our use unless we go to 600V or higher. We learned this the hard way back in the KGSSHV days.

Restore the cut windings, move the white wire from brown to blue on the voltage selector board, remove both black jumpers and replace them with a single one from gray to purple. That is the 240V setup, never use the 220V one. The amp has unregulated power supplies so the bias will drift with the input voltage.

I've never seen that exact setup but it is basically the same as others. See those two gray links, they are the adjustment but you also need to move the white wire as seen here:

Some of the parts suppliers have the Mk2 headpad for sale and it should be direct replacement. Now if the old elastic has streched then I'd just cut a bit off it. Works a charm

True... I did order a L500 Mk2 to I can swap the cable out for the older all copper one to see if that makes any difference. It won't but hey... any excuse to buy more headphones...

Last I heard Phenomenon is gone, website and all.

Well the review is live...