spritzer

I'm not a fan of the glue either (having refurbed way too many Stax sets over the years) but at least they are using the super nice 3M glue which is not a pain to clean up. The Stax stuff, especially the stuff from the 80's, is super nasty

It's hard to gauge that but the early 2000's sets are just fine now if they have been taken care of.

I assume it is Jude running said HF youtube channel and then yeah... clueless as the day is long that one. They are hard to drive so something like a modified T1S would work but... it depends on the volume levels. The modded Stax amps work well a low to medium volume but push them and they start to struggle.

It's not felt but some woven material, might be similar to what Aumkar is using on the RR1's.

Hehe so true... 😂

Stax serial numbers are meaningless so they offer no guide at all. There was never anything wrong with the 007A/Mk2 treble so it's just as it should be. The Mk2.5 had rather nasty treble but that was a decade ago.

I have a very recent 007A and they are very nice, just straight out of the box. Stax have changed the earpads a bit but otherwise they are the same.

I think the main issue that tubes take a crap ton of abuse and are nearly impossible to kill (except with excessive power) so they are the refuge of the hack job.

Those boards might have been milled on one of those cheap table top CNC's...

I would recommend something powerful so as a baseline, the KGSSHV or the KGST. Audeze made these intentionally inefficient so they need plenty of clean power to behave. As for the LTA Z10e, I would never recommend that thing. Kevin and I are actually looking for one to tear apart as there are pretty much no internal pics and based on their own comments, it is all kinds of stupid. What little snippets I found was the 300V max EL84's driven at 700V so you have all the same issues as Stax do in their amps, massive compression. If the Zotl is actually connected to the tubes while in electrostatic operation, then that is a huge issue as well. EL84's are the same as 300B's, they should never be used in electrostatic amps. Simply not suitable.

So basically this with an extra stage and a healthy dose of fuckup

Who needs to twist wires and caps after the ballast is a big fucking no-no

Yup

It's been a long week so not a lot of time to sit down and listen to the CRBN but when I've done so, they always deliver. No issues at all like the first set had and they are very comfy for a couple of hours or so. I'll try to sit down for a few hours straight but they are so light and the earpads so supple that I don't foresee any issues. It did take me a while to get used to the more diffused sound stage as I thought they were off balance a few times. Just the different presentation playing with my head... I'll take some more time until my final impressions but how about some teardown pics instead. Now do remember that this set was headed my way and Audeze knew I would tear it apart... so they were nice enough to not fully adhere the earpads. That's why they have the paper backing on them. First shot showing the gorgeous carbon shells. Earpads off showing the baffle and the nylon screws which secure the baffle to the back. The 3M adhesive they are using for the earpads is very strong so these are no easy headphones to get into. The earpads are very thick and some of the nicest I've ever seen so I don't foresee having to replace them anytime soon. Another shot showing the (phenolic?) baffle. Now remove the screws and the set comes apart, the baffle screws through the earcups and into the back piece. There is quite a bit of foam behind the drivers but it is very open. Audeze were shooting for a fairly high damping design so this makes sense. Here is the frame with the foam in place. That small dot falls off easily which is good, that means no adhesive in place to make a reflective surface inside the foam. The back cover is a very nice piece and I like the use of fine mesh to keep most things out of the cups Now remove the foam from the picture above and we have the back of the driver. They have gone for connections through the structure to the different elements unlike say Stax who take it all to one point. Nothing wrong with either way of doing things. Here you can also see the construction of the cable which is woven and it feel like it's two triple strands from the Stax plug, up through the cable split and into each cup. I do wonder how much capacitance braiding the cables like this does add to the system (a flat cable always be superior in that regard) but its similar to what Sennheiser do on the HE-1 and Mr. Speakers on the Voce. Far cry better than the crap Hifiman call a cable... on a 18k$ set of headphones though. Another shot the driver free of the earcup. Same thick woven material used for the dust covers front and back. Side profile showing just how thin the driver sandwich is and also its MRI safe roots are evident. Not a whole lot of metal in that, similar to what Sennheiser did with the HE series back in the day. The HE60 was just two pieces of extruded plastic, painted gold and then the mylar stretched onto the frame. Kinda funny to see this approach compared to what Stax are doing with the SR-X, ever more complicated stator designs whose benefits are not quite clear. Last but not least, the very nice plug on these. That is aluminum and then molded plastic... very nice indeed.

100K!!?? Yeah any headphones connected to that amp won't live much longer and the distortion must have been pretty intense.... Gotta love it when people go for complete incompetence... In the age of super cheap PCB's, none of that makes any sense.

That thing is so utterly fucked. Pure limitless incompetence all around there. I think we need a list of badly made crap, RSA, McAlister etc. Viva Audio is the newest one I'm laughing at, holy crap they are badly made and the part choices there make no sense at all. They use PSU caps notorious for shorting (Rifa) as coupling caps... in 20k$ amps. Very Singlepower...

It really depends on how loud we are talking but yeah, most amps start to fall apart when you push them with the 007's.

I'm sure we could do a comparison like that.

It was an account I started for us but I don't have any way of getting in there as I don't know the password... or the user name for that matter. 😂

I truly don't get the name... why 9000? The TOTL amp is the T8000 so is this 1000 better...? Doesn't make any sense and is actually worse than the names I come up with...

Please do as there are a lot of people out there with broken crap by them. I'm urging them to come forward with their stories so we'll see

I'm cautiously optimistic that Stax didn't fuck these up but none of the new factors matter at all if they messed up the voicing.

True...

They are not detachable

Same reason as always, zero clue what the fuck they are doing...