spritzer

The max voltage of 450V does mean it isn't terribly useful for that role. That and this tubes peculiarities (long warm up time) means it doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Now the KT150 would be fun to tinker with if you like heat... I for one don't care if you blow up your amp, that's your problem entirely. What I do care about is people reading that and thinking this tube is a sub when it clearly isn't suitable in any way. This amp is supposed to use El34/6CA7 and no other tubes. Not KT88, KT77, 6550, KT66. KT90, KT120 or KT150. I love the "HS!" markings Kevin put in there...

There is using something that is under spec and then using something which is nothing like the intended tube, far lower voltage and a different bias point. Most of the Stax amps are great to excellent but hamstrung by what they can do. The 007tA I'm using right now is awesome simply by changing the tubes to 6S4A's.

Happy Birthday

Yes, 6c33 is just awesome in what Andy is doing. Using 6P3S-E in a 900V amp is just untold amounts of stupid. Just because some idiot on the net claims this tube is similar to the EL34 doesn't make it so. It's a lower spec version of the 6L6 and is not compatible.

Happy Birthday Tom!!

I'm not even going to start about how stupid it is to use those Russian tubes in this amp.

Ehhh these are mosfets so they do need anti-static bags. Only the pink plastic bags are anti-static AFAIK...

Renesas made these but they are discontinued now. If the manufacturer had any stock then we'd buy it... all. I'd love to see examples of where these fake parts are used and how that is going.

If you are careful then it is possible.

Just lift up the cloth cover on the ear side. That will reveal the dustcover.

The stators are insulated so that is not likely. The issue is also present with the phones unplugged and that can only be a diaphragm issue. The stators hold no charge...

I had something similar happen with one of my Dynalo's. It oscillated a bit depending on where the input cable was positioned underneath the pcb. This is well away from any AC source and the chassis is grounded so very odd indeed. The TKD pot might have been the culprit though given their odd construction.

It's the second coming, that's why.

I know they either had to dig some more out of storage or make some more recently. The software used by Senn showed no stock in Germany...

I bought a headpad via the Icelandic distributor not that long ago and I can go in a check if they can order more.

Both are very good suggestions. Small holes in the dust covers can be patched up with some clear tape.

It's more about replacing with a known quantity, a set they know works.

Yup, they just replace them. No attempts ever made to fix drivers...

Nope, I even hate doing that to my own sets. One set I'm about to sell has this in both drivers but I just can't get rid of it. Still it's not always there and this is with the glued Lambda drivers so almost impossible to clean.

Only one cause for that, there is some dust that has entered the driver. Takes a lot of patience and skill to get rid of that. Pretty much impossible in the standard Lambda drivers prior to this generation... Spent most of yesterday looking for that in the number of sets I'm about to put up for sale.

The 323S would be an excellent choice. Only upgrade to that at a sane price would be any of the T1/006t amps upgraded to ECC99 or the TOTL amps from Stax modified. Speaking of which, the modified SRM-007tII doesn't have a chance in hell of driving these Sigma Nova Signatures... Too tired to fire up the BHSE though.

Nope, except our mantra of MOAR!!!! I've been on a bit of a counter swing to that today as I was doing some inventory and realized I had way too much crap. Assembling and testing Stax headphones from parts can be fun... until one doesn't work as it should.

Ahh that makes sense, cut corners where the damage can be huge. Gotta love government thinking...

Yup that's it. A couple of drivers that most people would have thrown out fitted to the most expensive frame money can't buy. The 404LE is a bit more refined but the tone is similar. The 323S is the better amp than the 252S but the small one is damn good for something so tiny. The major limitations don't show up until you start to push it. Same headband used on both though the head pad is different. The earpads on the 207 are roughly the same thickness but vinyl so not as nice. The 207 is also a bit lighter given the less substantial cable.

Glad to hear you are all safe as this has been followed closely here. I baked some "landmine" cookies in your honor though...