spritzer

Must be the viking blood as they spared no one....

That's makes for a great reason to build one.

I'm in for what ever you need, cash, parts or what ever.

There are some variations amongst the ESP950's but as with most of the Koss versions, they aren't well documented. I have come across a set here (quite old) that had more damping then the newer units. I would start off removing all foam and if you want to go hard core, remove the black filter on the metal grill. Btw. The screws and underneath the pads which are just pulled off. I just read though it and I may compile some more impressions later on and add them but that looks good.

This is what happens when I compose a sentence in Icelandic in my head and translate it directly. Do you know get why Bj

Some more on the Jade. I've been using the Jade exclusively for the last few days but tonight I simply couldn't take it any more and went back to the Omega's. The sound is simply too strange for me to be able to handle, the top end is strident yet has no extension, they do voices well but the rest of the midrange is fucked up and the bass has no extension, bloom or timbre and simply bounces along from one resonance to the next. Now there aren't many headphones which I've simply given up on (the Jecklin Floats are the only ones I can remember and that was due to comfort) but I'm at a loss as to how to make the Jade even tolerable. Ohh well I guess I have to sleep on it... The screws are indeed fixed to the plate which then in turn holds the drivers in place. Have you removed any of the damping from the ESP950? Koss were a bit overzealous with the damping...

Just get some screws from Stax. Might cost a fortune though...

It will also be a lot easier to replace then that DVS crap Meridian and everybody else is using.

It's next to the two metal arcs and it secures the headband. I would just drill it out and then use a wisegrip to remove the stub.

The portrayal of soundstage depth and over all size has a lot to do with how the drivers utilize the ear or rather how they are positioned in relation to the ear. The housing also plays a large part so I don't think that a better source helps in this regard.

I used some sandpaper to get the solder to stick and I don't know if you can buy the nuts separately.

Nope I didn't try that. I was going to try air damping them via solid mylar dust covers but the drivers can't take being handled too much so I dropped the idea.

You could, in theory at least, use the old forks with the new arc. They are just held in place with a single screw on each side but I've never tried to do this. Is your old arc broken? As for the Jade... they are growing on me after the mods. They are still abnormally forward which and have weird tonality which is probably due to the membrane and I don't want to swap that out. The midrange is very nice though there is something that's bothering me. I can't quite put my finger on it but there appears to be a mild texture on all voices. The bass is more subdued and better controlled but more like the Lambdas then the Omegas. I could try to damp the drivers somewhat but the less times I open up the housing the better as the lead wires on the drivers could break and that would be a PITA to fix...

All the dimensions are identical but you have to remove the metal inserts on the cups since the pins are much larger on the new forks if you are going to replace the whole arc assembly.

Tell me about it.

The SR-404 is very comfy and the same thing can be said about the Sigma's too even though they are huge. The Jade drivers are now back on the headband thanks to some new and much improved screws. Changing the cable and sealing the baffle has benefited them greatly and the only real now complaint is the flat soundstage. The bass is still uneven and boomy but I doubt I can do much more to fix that without a new enclosure. Btw. Don't ever drop the Jade as they will not survive it. The headband is guaranteed to break and the housing is very thin. You have been warned!

You could possibly break the socket if you did that or get a nasty shock from the PSU if the pliers aren't well insulated. You could also get the seller to make you a new adapter with different pins.

The later brown color is quite bad and I don't see how they could have dropped the beautiful chocolate brown of the Lambda Signature and SR-Omega.

I just tried some different glues for reattaching the pads and none of them work. There is simply not enough area to play with so I may have to use liquid glue like Mr. He uses but that is the last resort. I also removed the blutak from one ear piece and then added it back in 3 steps and the difference is quite startling. Before the bass is loose and boomy (for an ESP) but it is much more controlled after it is all sealed up. I may end up leaving some part of it open though as I don't like them fully seaked. Either the blutak or the new cable has also cleared up the upper midrange so they aren't harsh any more but there is some extra texture on the midrange that I have to work on.

...or we could just use transformers or some monster Krell mono blocks.

I've been crazy busy so not much time to compare but the blutak seems that have cleaned up the bass quite a bit but it's too early to tell. I will only work on Michaels set and no more though I'll report what I did as usual.

That BHSE is the sechs but I need some silver in my life. I'm not sure when he got them but you can check in the HF thread. I haven't had much time with them today but I believe I managed to tame the bass somewhat with the new cable and sealing the baffle. When I get some suitable glue for the earpads I'll know more.

Way too long.