spritzer

want....

Using larger resistors is much easier when doing P2P work but you can always drill out the holes on a PCB. I had to do that on the BH boards I was working on as I was using resistors with higher wattage rating.

The SR-Omega earpads aren't sealed in any way at the baffle so if you lift them you open up a small port. If you open it up some more you shouldn't experience distortion (I've run the SR-Omega drivers in open air and no distortion) so this could be a hint that something is wrong. My first cause of action would be to tighten the 3 screws at the back of the housing (the odd numbered of the 5 ones there i.e. 1,3,5) and if you feel up to removing the pads, tighten the screws there as well. To get accurate bass you need the seal, add a port and you boost certain frequencies (frequency bands really) but usually cut the available bandwith of the drivers.

WE NEED PICS!!!!!!!!

If you check out the image above you can see that the rest of the amp is all discrete. Good point, one can get too single minded with what is sitting here. Transformers FTW...

The rest of the amp is fully discrete so the phase "combiner?" should have been as well. Not a big deal but I would run this amp using the RCA inputs...

Could be... and it's Doug's burpday soon!!!

Me too.

Happy Birthday Al!!!

Happy birthday you crazy old fart...

Look up scan nr.9 of the manual just posted and notice the voltage selector on the transformer primaries. From the looks of it there are two 0-100-120v primaries just like on all the Stax gear. Does anybody have internal pics of this beast?

The 717 is a bit of an oddball as it is warm yet detailed, or rather SS done well.

The bent sockets could be the reason for the noise, ground loop or something like that.

Yep, it's a good idea to use tube amps with the Signatures.

They are very revealing and brutally honest.

Ditto. It was some SmartKit job I built when I was 12. I should still have it somewhere around here...

The only Lambdas fitted with a wool damping layer are the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Pro. The rest are all open backed with just the foam to keep out dust.

Beautiful work indeed but is there any reason why the housings are so big compared to the PS-1? Backwave reflection must be an issue and can cause all sorts of issues. I must admit to be thinking how brillinat cups like that would be on a Stax SR-X Mk3 Pro...

It's better then VW Bora which means asshole in Icelandic.

Nope, haven't had time to do any work on it. It's a VW Passat but sadly not fitted with the upgraded Dynaudio system.

1$ Glad to see you again buddy! Btw. I asked Tony to take a peek inside his authentic SR-x Mk3 Pro and here is how they are made up inside: That's pretty much how I built my DIY SR-X PRO's including modding the stock cable by joining the bias wires just above the plug. They do sound better with the ribbon wires though.

You bias the amp by plugging the multimeter probes into the Stax sockets and adjust for as little DC voltage as possible.

Valves need to warm up like everything else but that only takes a few minutes at most (a minute is more like it as they have a built in filament) so that's not an issue. Many amps are hybrids though so it's the SS components which will take longer to warm up. Tubes will last for thousands of hours in headphone amps so there is no need to worry about them being optimal or not. The amps may need to be biased from time to time as the tubes age but that's about it.

I compare all headphones against the SR-007 Mk1 so I can tell you exactly how the HE90 sounds and the HE60 even though there are roughly 12 months since I sold my sets. I've also written it down enough times that it is engraved in my head.