spritzer

The ES-1/2 is a Stax design from the 60's which he just swapped out the tubes and fitted a different PSU. The same goes for at least some of the dynamic amps but I haven't been following them. At least one of them though is identical to a Woo Audio unit so both are using the same 3rd party circuit.

Aren't all the SP amps "borrowed"?

You also have the added benefit of not being a fucktard like markl... When are you going to perform my mods on the SR-007 Mk2...? That does remind me to update the thread with my latest ramblings...

There is an overload protection on the PCB for the transformers (but it should be bypassed anyway for better SQ) but other then that the transformers are on their own. Fitting larger units in the SRD-7 box isn't likely to work out so the best way would be to build a new bias supply and go from there. It's easy to build point to point but there is always the option that somebody draws up a PCB...

Could I send you some of my phones for "treatment"? Do you think it would be possible to re-run in my 40+ year old SR-1...?

Those poor miserable headphones...

A normal bias SRD-7 can be had for less then 100$ but the SRD-7 Pro and Mk2 units fetch closer to 300$.

Most of the B22's use an off the shelf transformer and they almost always have a dual primary i.e. two 117v windings which are parallel connected for US voltage but can be connected in series for 230v. That's exactly what I did with mine. The B22 sounds great but it is also versatile and can drive speakers and Stax transformers with ease.

It isn't cheap that's for sure but one can use a simpler bias supply and skip one Lundahl unit there. I would also consider Sowter transformers which are designed for ESL duty but they aren't cheap either. If you are only going to use Lambdas and not one of the Omega or Sigma range then a standard SRD-7 will be more then enough and you can always modify it with better wiring directly to the windings.

I haven't tried the Egmont and will hopefully never touch one built by Rudi. I do have the schematic and I'm building one with a far better PSU then the crap Rudi uses and not the cheapest possible parts. About the RPX-100... You have Casino access so go search for it there. It has quite possibly the worst PCB design seen in the last 25 years and those output capacitors aren't doing the crap circuitry any favors. Elna's aren't that expensive but it's clear that he just doesn't care to spend anything more then the bare minimum. If you like your amp then that's fine and don't let me stop you but you should compare it to something excellent like the B22 or a Dynahi. Now lets talk about something that doesn't involve people trying to rip you off...

There is no fixed price on Jecklins and they can go for 100-350

This picture was included on a local Icelandic news site with the notice that Jerry Wexler has passed away

I'm way too tired to go into all of this now but he's just selling the same crap over and over again in a new 30

Post something of use or get the fuck out. Simple as that...

Don''t even bring up that fucktard. Back when HF had some balls an idiot like that would have been banned for spamming everywhere but now... I never looked at that Rudistor monstrosity before but it's nice to see that Rudi has decided to add a second parallel connected 6SN7 to his crappy Egmont Signature and jack up the price by 2000

I hope you've finally come to your senses and dropped all of this DIY nonsense and just got the best there is, a Rudistor Coriolan 2. I mean how can you go wrong with something as advanced...

There is a protection screen next to the ear and from the beginning (Sr-Sigma 1977) it has been black but in 2003-4 they changed to silver so look for that. The stators were also uninsulated on the Lambda Pro but they are powder coated now so black in color compared to the gold copper color.

There is no way to replace just the membranes on a Lambda series without major surgery. It's all glued together with some urethane based adhesive.

That could certainly be it if they were fitted with new drivers. Easy enough to check as what color is the grill underneath the earpad foam? One thing that makes all of this even harder is the difference in glue used by Stax now and what they did use. Now they've gone all eco-friendly on us and the new stuff doesn't seem to be as strong.

Anyone of the Stax distributors has replacement cables but the cost may well be triple what they cost in Japan. I would contact EIFL or Audio Cubes to see if they can order one directly from Stax. I have bought then from EIFL but they can be very slow to respond... The adhesive used to mount the new pads is very sticky so you should be able to just lift up the corners and press the pads back onto the baffle when you are done.

I use zip-ties to secure the cables, one closer to the opening and a second directly above it on the cable for extra protection. I use pliers to grip the free end and the lock at the same time for a tight fit. Here is a pic of my SR-X Mk3 Pro:

The Stax version of refurb is to remove everything that could be broken and replace with parts from the current line. Not really what you want them to do with the vintage Lambdas is it... If it's the Lambda Sigs that you are talking about then I'd just order up a new SR-303 (or 404 if you want a better one) cable and install it. I can take you through it step by step and it is not that hard to do if you know how a screwdriver works and which end of the soldering iron to hold...

Yes but Stax beats them all... earspeakers bitch!!!!

I haven't heard the 306 but the 303 was pretty bad and you can get a much better vintage piece for the price.