Knuckledragger

Which one did you buy, Clem?

When I shot with the 35L (on APS-C) I loved it.

This is possibly the most fucked up thing I have ever posted in this thread.

#3 is obviously the most important. Being a perennial bachelor, WAF is an abstract concept to me. If the Tokina works for you, then go for it. A US version of the Nikon 10-24mm is $810 @ Adorama: 2181 Nikon 10mm - 24mm f/3.5/4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Autofocus Zoom Lens for Digital SLR Cameras, Nikon U.S.A. Warranty That's not chump change, but it's down almost $100 from when it was introduced. Given that nearly every other Nikon lens has gone up in price, I find that noteworthy. The differences between F/3.5 and F/4.5 is 2/3rd of a stop. I prefer fixed aperture zooms, but I have learned that with wide zooms variable aperture is much less of an issue. In my experience, aperture size is not hugely important at the wide end, particularly in superwide territory. If you want me to elaborate on that, I will in the photography thread.

What's the Tokina 11-16mm go for? A quick Google search says about $600. For $200 more, one can get the mighty Nikon 10-24mm. At the wide end, every mm counts WRT field of view. If I owned a Nikon APS-C "DX" camera, I'd be all over that. I have shot with the Canon EF-S 10-22mm, and I was really impressed with the results (sadly, I have no example shots online.) Of course, the real answer is to get a full frame sensor and then the 17-40L (Canon) or um, one of these (Nikon).

Two 32oz bottles of Tapatio hot sauce. I also recently decided I'm in the market for a really cheap TV. All it needs to be able to do is play movies in a side room. 480i is fine, but in the age of 60" LED-backlit 1080p 240hz LCD TVs with built in recipes for turduckens, it's tough to find a "basic" television.

Slept about 5 hours. Got up, had a minor breakfast. Replaced a broken screen on a kitchen window. Turned on the the water to the outside spigot. Found a $%&@ garden hose that wasn't torn, kinked to shit, and had working connectors. Checked the barns for further raccoon infestation; saw none (good). Made lunch. I've been cutting back overgrown shrubs and raking ever since. I'm about ready to faceplant. Also, I just paid of my credit card bill. Still having irrational thoughts about buying a subwoofer or two. Is it time for an intervention yet?

^^ Nice, but I was thinking about one (or TWO) of these. The message you have entered contains gratuitously oversized images. WTF, dude?

m2!

Last night I wired up my AU265s as fronts (where they have been for a few months now) and the UP1203s as surrounds. I rented the Criterion edition of The Rock. I'm not going to say it's a good movie, because it isn't. It is, however, an excellent version of a loud film that throws noises around all 5 surround channels. As a bonus, the Creterion disk has DTS soundtrack which sounds significantly better than the Dolby Digital version. Using 265s as fronts and 1203s as mains presents a couple problems. First, the 265s are 4 ohms and the 1203s are 8. This meant that the fronts were significantly louder than the rears, and tended to drown them out. I turned up the surround channels by a 7 or so dB on my pre/processor, but only did that after watching The Rock. I've got Tim Burton's 9 out as well, and I'm going to watch that with the channels adjusted. I should add that my center channel is also 8 ohms, but it didn't seem to be overpowered by the 265s at all. Another issue is that the 1203s have 12" woofers, and go much lower than the 265s. In spite of the difference in levels, I did notice a lot more bass coming from the back of the room. I suspect I can mitigate this with a subwoofer purchase.

"The nominal per-capita GDP of Ghana is $671. At 23 million in pop. it would cost roughly 14 billion to buy the country...and nationalize its futbol team, which happens to be the only way the U.S. team will EVER make it past the second round of world cup."