congo5

Yes these stat amps from kevin will make their own balanced signal output. its the how that is not always clear to me.... Like Jim's question where a LTP will make balanced. IF you have 2v out from your source then if balanced that would be 2v + 2v so stronger than a 2v single ended.... think Spritzer told me 6db. I use a lot of computers so converting to balanced helps with the gain on some amps. (enough volume) Question on the ksa1156/ksc2752: on Mouser they have grade Y & O for the 1156 and only grade O for the 2752 also the Hfe grades are different between the two O is 60-120 on the 1156 and O is 30-60 on the 2752 so from what I see there is no way to get a hfe match from Mouser, perhaps CFB will fix? Does It Matter?

Fee paid Thank you

It only takes one thing to send it into a bad place one part or connection can cause voltages to go crazy all over the place Do not use this for preamp duty! don't ask me how i know I do wonder if it could be used for the CAST Inputs>>>>

As far as I know inputs should be shorted when setting bias, offset. or connected to something that has no DC on it- not floating. I connect a 10kR across the in + & - then can hang scope probes and signal on them Also true current source amps need a load, so when you test, add the jumper for higher current gain and use 50 ohm load. to check a BJT ... one way is to measure voltage--- base to emitter---VBE

I can't tell from the pictures so gonna ask. are the inputs shorted or connected when testing? is there a 50R or so load connected to the outputs? what is the voltage on pin6 of servo, good one and bad? did you measure voltage base to emitter of all transistors? its all bipolar so they should all be around .5v that will tell you if they are working. and since the board is marked its easy and its low enough voltage to be safe. still be careful not to short any pins..... good luck, its probably not much wrong.

I've been using OP07 because its cheap and +-22v also it says in datasheet (2) All voltage values, unless otherwise noted, are with respect to the midpoint between VCC+ and VCC−. so the way I read it ........ can use on GRLV up to 40v output... and have been

I used 581-TAP476M020CCS on six or so units and 35v for the 10uf 581-TAP106K035SCS from the semantic it looks like they only see 10v C8 & 9 are fed by the lt1021-10 C7 & C13 are in parallel with a 9.1v zener and C16 & C3 go rail to the voltage divider/ inverting input, which is also 10v I remember wondering about that 20v part too. so far no problems with them, using 20v to 40v output

paid and thanks

what voltage do you want? I do not understand Kevin's method so came up with this: desired voltage x 150 -1500 = R8, R9 40v is 40 x150=6000 -1500=4500 30v is 3kR 25v is 2250R

I agree remove it............... just cut the legs if you don't want to desolder google Dim-bulb Tester a great thing to have.... and very cheap to make or variac ... I use both the boards I have are goldenreference6 (file name) and says version .44 on board

yes that's right, and use two diode bridges. the 6th is if you want to ground the board to case through the 10R resistor next to it.

In the PDF I have open the measurement is from the bottom of small standoff to tip of solder pins... isn't the 6mm clip part made to go through the board? http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Customer+Drawing770967GpdfEnglishENG_CD_770967_G.pdf1-770967-0

I followed your link and opened the " Product Drawing " it says 3.68 & 1.0 dia for pins there is no dimension given for the plastic mount clip but looks like half of the 6mm total so 3mm my CAD gets the size wrong so no help there

you can compare with the other side as they are the same circuit. it may be the CREE like you suspected or something wrong with the CCS 10m90/DN2540 check voltage across R1 on schematic should be close to what the working one is.. its too late for me to hook one up and measure, work hours are approaching. You'll have better help tomorrow anyway good luck

just WAG but assuming no wrong parts/missing or backwards, is the stn9360 in place under the boards? (I've forgot it) what are the voltages on the Cree? middle pin should be full unreg and to its left is the reg voltage GDS sorry really can't see much but what little I can looks good may have to wait for those who know more to chime in

not sure what Carbon CC is but its defiantly on the Carbon, Grounded grid and BH, I know I've blown them up :-) and Thanks Jim for how to set them up in advance with a battery, works great! or in the circuit...

only one jumper... both op-amp and opto installed

the 7815 Fairchild that I use have thermal overload protection, so if anything is shorted (or massively wrong) that would explain the voltage drop. Does it get HOT?

I have stereo balanced Uber running but need to get it to run cooler. the most Bias I have tried is 200mv across the emitter resistors and I get to 65c in 30 min.. things to do: increase airflow, may try lower voltage transformers as I have 50v at the caps and could do with 44v Do plan on redoing this when happy, take it apart and re wire, adjust things. Clean it up. Been reading the KSA50/100 clone thread at the other place to gain ideas. with what I've done it might end up with 25wpc class A and the rest AB which is still a Monster I would just bring the GRLV rails up closer but don't know how. I think it would be better if the output regulator pass transistors did not have to bleed off 10v each. The outputs are very stable at under 1mv, there is no turn on / off thumps and it does sound good.

No .......... the 8 large ones, high voltage, in groups of four with shiny metal on top in the front middle of your power supply. that tab is HOT... look at these: STTH512FP Use half your volume pot, tie the minus inputs to ground at connectors on amp boards and drive the plus from volume pot, twisted pair or shelded cable from each section of pot to each board....easy!

think 35-36vac is what you what you want.. with 36vac it gives me 50vdc so with 4 boards biased at 2 amps = 80w of heat from the regulators 10v drop x 8A =80 or 20W per channel just for the power supply side if I'm thinking right.. nope its twice that for 10v, drop 10v off of each rail... 160W Plus the heat from the outputs, if biased at 2A that would be 80v (+40 and -40v) x 2A=160W x 4 channels =640W plus the 160W = 800w in the F5 Turbo V3 article Nelson Pass says the transformer VA rating should be at least twice the dissipation. Are these numbers right? How much ClassAB power do you want? I'm starting with a 1000va and room to add more. I think you are right but others think different. I do not know. we need to build it and see if the rails sag under load, lots of things to test and measure, its a big project . do you have picture of said transformer? it must weigh a lot.. one is fine, two is better but by how much>>>??

32vac seems a bit low, the AN-15435 or two AN-8435 might be better I have not had all 4 output boards running at once but with Antek 36v trans I am getting +-50v at the cap's which would allow for some voltage drop on the mains (summer A/C) and the trans under more load. Using the 18 &12v winding's is what I may do for....GRLV @ 30v Many people here know far more that me, I struggle with picking transformers, these are my thoughts.

Megatron? this looks like an older KGSSHV BOM if so http://www.bdent.com/

not for me. you should check your socket with a meter and see if you can get it to short while inserting/removing plug Thanks for the correction! was thinking of the current feedback amp

its 5k on gerbers (bottom)