DefQon
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Posts posted by DefQon
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Going for a full rebuild plus improvements.
I'm interested in your faceplate cad/photoshop file as I need one done to my SRA-3S and the logo is a issue at the moment.
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What is this version 0.1 boards you speak of? Who built mulvelings Carbon?
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Any internal underside shots on the original HEV90's? Tried searching them online and never found any.
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Any SRD-X schematics?
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I would be over the moon if I could find and buy another Omega for the price I paid for my original pair. Not going to happen though.
Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
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38 minutes ago, 3x0 said:
Any opinions with your other amps like the Octave?
I'm still on the fence about grabbing something just for the HE90. My pair is pretty bass-shy even out of the T2 so I'm curious whether some design can ameliorate that glaring weakness.
When did you build/buy a T2?
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Not exactly cheap though. My distributor quoted me $30AUD for a pair of foam backing for my LP.
I've been in contact with some foam manufacturers over the past few years who can do 10ppi (pores per inch) foam (which is what the Stax one is) and most of them have just declined my quote or I have to order at least 1000sqm of the stuff minimum. Not exactly cheap as well, for foam.
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That one looks quite clean. Most SR-1's I've seen including my own are darkened yellow due to exposure to UV. Though I do have one of the earlier versions.
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No, aside from a few people there, Head-fi is mostly full of douchebags and cunts emphasized to the nth degree.
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Somebody else on another board waited two months for there 507 to arrive from PJ. I agree with spritzer communication was never there strong suit. My old 009`s took a little under a month to arrive to me from PJ via EMS.
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What an odd decision. The Violectric 281 is what I would describe as a amp with a bit of warmth, that typical Violectric house signature.
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No access. Guess I have to make one out with my bare hands. I have various plastic leveling blocks in various thickness. Cut them out in circles, file it down then sand, measures distance for the pins then use my drill press to do the holes and sacriface few xlrs for pins.
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Anywhere to get some 5 or 6 pin Stax male connectors?
Is the old Amphenol ones still recommended and the go to option posted back on head-wize almost 20 years ago?
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Where are they getting the genuine Sato Stax connectors from?
6C5P...hmm interesting output tubes, one of those Chinese/Russian only type of triodes with no direct European or US drop in replacement.
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I liked it from a sound perspective after Tyll gave it a recommendation. It reminded me of the balanced Dynahi I heard a year ago at a private meet.
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The weak pound certainly doesn't have any effect against our weak AUD.
You can try electromods or get in contact with Nigel from Audio Marketing, Australia's official Stax distributor who does repairs, services for Stax products, I have purchased individual Stax parts through them before and it works out a better deal than going with overseas suppliers:
http://www.audiomarketing.com.au/
You can also get in contact with George from Addicted to Audio and see if he can sort you out with the headband piece as well but he may not be able to.
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They are excellent to me Mike. I`ve had far worse boards like the Cavalli stuff a few desolders the solder pads start lifting up.
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I sent him a 'friendly' message on ebay yesterday.
I've seen the A'Gon listing from years back which I was very close to buying myself.
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On 6/30/2016 at 1:40 PM, n3rdling said:
Which doesn't really mean anything on its own. So are most of the PCBs for parts inside your cutting edge computer or cell phone. Just because something is made in China doesn't mean it's low quality, it's more about what you're willing to pay. In many (most) instances now, China actually has the resources to provide superior manufacturing, you just can't expect rock bottom prices. The 80s are over.
True but in this case (or at least the 2 LF's I worked on helping getting it repaired for a friend) the PCB that Cavalli did use for that amplifier was absolutely shit, the layout was completely shit. I have a box full of bare PCB's waiting for assembly that I have accumulated over time for various projects, most of which are from China and some of which are from Mikes GB's here and they are of a different caliber to Cavalli's stuff. Both Made in China. Another thing I've wondered is why the black PCB color which makes PCB repairs and rework hard to do with the black color overlay.
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Some of Cavalli's PCB's are fabricated in China.
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Don't worry, it's 2 years now already, I think its time I make a reappearance on that site to try and set things straight when I hear these new e-stats from Dan. No fuck will be given.
I think a new plug means Dan doesn't want people to truly know how craptastic the phones or amplifier is going to be when tested from and against Stax offerings.
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Doesn't last forever though especially in shit environment conditions. My old CD1k drivers (using biocellulose coating technology) had turned to white shit because it was stored in piss poor conditions.
Here I was thinking oh another $1000 headphone....did not realise these are $4k ish until TMoney mentioned it.
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Wow looks like they completely removed the windings coming out to the mounts in the plastic holder.
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12 hours ago, Craig Sawyers said:
Very few audio products use beryllium, even though it is close to being the ideal material in terms of young modulus/density ratio. Used in the 1970's in the classic Yamaha NS1000M speakers for HF and midrange units. Surprisingly not particularly toxic in the metallic state - it is the soluble salts that are the killer. The mirrors in the James Webb Space Telescope are all of machined beryllium, gold coated.
I believe the new upcoming NS5000M speakers will be using beryllium for its driver like its predecessors but applied using today's technology.
grounded grid
in Do It Yourself
Posted
I've had various EML tubes over the past few years which I avoid now due to QC and reliability issues they've had. My 300B's arc'd on first power up and after few hours of use and the construction inside is shit if you're concerned about looks but its really more than just looks that's the problem. One of my 300B's was missing the middle spigot and all of them had loose bases. Elrog and EML I both avoid.