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Posts posted by DefQon

  1. There is a trace going from that pin on the tube socket to the bottom on the left most 50k 5watt Riken resistor, so if a blue wire is added there then it could be the previous owner attempted some repair or modification and damaged the solder pad or trace and bypassed it with a blue wire.

    There are two 100uf 250/350v capacitors for filtering paralleled on the opposite side where you have circled in red. There are additionally two other axial capacitors (22uf 500v on mine) that are separate one on each side, you can't bypass them into a single 100uf capacitor as it's best to have the energy storage separate for the two sections. Judging from the picture the previous owner fitted some very large sized film? based capacitors and fit them onto the outside of the PCB. I would recommend removing them and go with 2 22uf 500v axial electrolytics and fit in them in the original place, make sure they are of appropriate size as the standoffs holding the PCB and the clearance between it and the centre chassis quite limited in measurement.

    Also every Stax schematic has errors in it, including that SRA-3S schematic.

  2. I tried searching for the relevant results of 6c p power tubes and all I got was multiple references to porn sites. That said I think its supposed to say Matched at the end rather then Marcheo or (Marched). The glass envelope reminds me of the GU50 type tubes.

  3. Dalbani are crooks, bought 100 or so 1968's few years ago when I had John's old KGSSHV offboards and luckily with the Dy294 on hand they all had a break down voltage of 190ish to 320. Then I bought 10 1968's from a supplier in China for around $40, they tested all fine and dandy and are still in use today in a KGSSHV I helped a friend build. Lots of fake 2SC3675, 2SA1967 and 1968's floating about so have to becareful.

  4. Well the case with Lambda drivers they are held down by a very strong resin which hardens over time when dried, one of the Stax repair distributors I have been in contact with also told me that older Stax Lambda drivers are replaced if damaged rather then physically repaired. When not in stock and the client allows, they will replace with a different but modern in production driver.

  5. I've actually heard the Mal Valve last Spring at another head-fier's house and to my surprise was well made from eye view and sounded quite good with the 009 and 007's we tried. Think KGSSHV sound but a tad bit sweeter with the 009 and tad bit meatier with the O2 MK1's. It drove the HD800's well too but lacked a bit of upper register clarity with the the orthos I brought over. 

    I would even think Birgir and Kevin would commend a few points the Mal Valve is able to deliver if they had a listen and play with one.

  6. Yeah I was browsing some of the ones with black dial and gold rim but my options was the upper range of the Chronographs or the Grand Seiko Spring Driver's, all of which are well above what I want to spend on (>$800).


    I'm not getting you grawk.:huh:

  7. Nope, but what transformer adaptors can offer is large volume headroom (depending on the amplifier back end it is driven from) but at the loss of some bit of detail, roll off compared to even a Stax amplifier (so the difference is fairly substantial compared to a KGSS and up).



    You can be a complete moron and buy eric65's shilled to no end Audiovalve Verto.

  8. Actually the SRM-3 has a vertical raiser PSU PCB with the transformer directly soldered. You need to desolder the grey wire from the 100 or 117v position (comes from the switch or fuse) and that goes to the 230v pad and then solder the centre windings from 0 to 120v for dual primary 240v AC input.

    I wouldn't be surprised if you have a completely different transformer in the amp though.

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