sorenb

I am not aquinted with the work of Gary Pimm, and as you stated, his website is no longer up. Not really, Jungs measurement shows deterioation above 1kHz - Jung even mention this in his text. Still, the cascoded fets demonstrate higher impedance in comparison to their bjt counterparts. - but seems to lack in linearity.

is it a description of what you needed to repair after the amp blew up the last time? I guess before you replaced the ½W with something more bold?

Cascoded bjt's CSS are linear throughout the audio region. In comparison the cascoded fet's demonstrate impressive results at DC but drops through out the audio region, and 'meets' the cascoded fet CSS around 3kHz.. I use a T2 CSS in my Blue Hawaii. Don't use the T2 CSS in my Carbon anymore.

There are a top cover, just waiting for the rings to arrive in order to finish it.

are the 10m90 at the BIAS/PSU mounted using insulation washers - doesn't look like ? Can see you are using nylon for those at the amp board ;o)

Can you shrink yourself into a three-layer pilot and fly one of those?

Neat implementation...2x 9360 + 3x c4686? ...is the other CSS on the bottom side?

I use Fusion360. and PhotoShop CS5. In my experience Fusion is capable of much more than needed to plan/design a chassie. Turned out that the dxf-file export from Fusion doesn't work for ModuShop. Now I provide FPE files for ModuShop which seems to work fine. If you do you own machining, be aware that the aluminium provided by ModuShop is very soft. Even with sharp tools it can be a bit of a challenge. Also, if you'll have ModuShop do the customization (or some of it) they charge a premium to do customizations from both sides.

Used wrong word here ... the switch is in fact a toggle switch, though it needs to be pushed rather deep to act as a toggle ...if only push'ed lightly it acts as a momentary ... so rather similar to the AMB setup

Yes, if one wants more brightness.

I used this one ....it has a red ring lighting up when power is on. I used something like 3-3.5V for the light ...it gets way too bright to my taste at 12V. Small boards close to the inlet is voltage selector 120/240VAC with main relay, and another 12VPSU + latching circuit. When main switch on the back is turned on only the latching circuit is on until the power switch at the front is pushed momentary. The power switch at the front only carries <12V voltages.

Yep Schurter DD11.0114.1110

how's that even possible? (I assume you used the same pattern for both boards?)

oh boy, a crazy second pilot and Pripps and Sürstrømning aficionado .... don't say you like Abba and Carola as well :-S

by suggesting removing the 120ohm? ....and yes. leg3 is supposed to be grounded, thus why 0v at leg2 should give 0v at leg6

how is 0V at leg2 to resonable when the output is -1.5V? How is -1V at leg6 resonable when leg 2 and leg3 is 0?

and you didn't by any chance enable servo1 as well? what do you have at leg4, leg7 and leg3 of the OP27?

hmmm .... have you checked whether some of the legs of the Op27 has been bended?

you say you have around -1.5V on the output? and have 0V at leg2 (like in 0.000V?), and -1V at leg6 ?

measure leg2 and leg6 of the OP27 against ground, might give you a clue to what is going on ...

so that is where the need for a shrink originates from

did you empty the bottle in the meantime? that might create a bit of an offset ;o)

Yes, meaning you have adjusted the output stage for 22.6mA Not sure what you are trying to express?