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  1. goldenreference low voltage power supply

    Seriously impressive Kerry (as usual )
  2. The Multi Amp aka Dynalo Mk2

    I don't think the Stax amps need more than 1 Oz copper because of the low current, but firstly everything here is overkill so if 2 Oz copper is good then 3 Oz is surely better Secondly, the 2 Oz boards will generally take more (re)heating so they stand a better chance of surviving rework which does come in handy for every DIY'er at some point. Last but not least, most of the amp designs have originally been offered to the community through early large GBs and when you are ordering 30/50/100 PCBs the additional cost per board becomes almost negligible.
  3. The Multi Amp aka Dynalo Mk2

    I think that might have been me here? Fischer SK437 xx STS 2.
  4. What Are You Building Today

    One thought of mine was a steady stream of swear words upon realising that the footprints of PCB mount transformers aren't always 100% identical between manufacturers I waited a couple of weeks for boards only to realise that the secondary side footprints were off by 0.2" because I chose a different manufacturer, but the physical size of the transformer was identical. This obviously doesn't apply to e.g. the Talema PCB mount toroids, but it's worth remembering to always check the manufacturers datasheets Other than that I think it is a great idea for transformers under 30VA or so, because PCB mounting is more flexible than bolt mounting IME
  5. goldenreference low voltage power supply

    Neat! How big is the PCB?
  6. Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread

    In the beginning I soldered most of them. Worked well, but a bit fiddly with smaller connectors (JST XH/PH etc). Then I decided to buy one of these http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa09e.html and now I'm not going back to soldering anytime soon
  7. Diptrace?

    Have you checked which layer those outlines are in in Eagle on the parts?
  8. FFS Kevin, I just got my "normal" CFA2 boards delivered earlier this week and now you come up with a new version?
  9. Technical Assistance/Advice Thread

    I normally solder one of the outer legs on its pad while holding the transistor with tweezers - then it's easier to correct the alignment on the pads if something's wrong. Then I solder the other legs manually and lastly I solder the tab to the pad for good thermal contact. The hot air gun is probably easier, but this works well for me.
  10. I'm not actually sure I'll have any spares - have a couple of local people interested as well. In any case it hardly seems worth it because these boards are small enough that they can be squeezed in under e.g. Itead's 10x10 cm size limit which means you can get 10 boards for $20 excl. shipping. There are several other cheap options as well for boards this size, e.g. Seed Studio etc. So if you are happy with "standard" quality boards and willing to wait a little then it's probably cheaper and easier to order yourself
  11. That was actually what I was thinking as well (got boards on order) . The 20W IRMs are the same size as the 15W modules by the way and they should be fine for SE. For BAL the 30W ones might be needed but they aren't much bigger. //UFN
  12. Maybe ask them, because they are an official LS distributor so they should be able to get the whole range? //UFN
  13. If you're in the EU you should be able to buy from Micross in the UK https://shop.micross.com/products.aspx?i=14 - shipping cost is still a bit steep but not as bad as from Trendsetter. //UFN
  14. That's a very neat idea! Would allow for a bit of experimentation to see how the JFETs change the sound of an existing amp I guess. Would you mind sharing artwork or schematics? //UFN