faust3d

Well, you took the guesswork out of the equation and got a perfect condition pair. As some say you usually get what you pay for, that's why I never pay big $ for things I can buy on eBay. If you buy from a user here you most likely will get what you pay for

Well felt is not the only material to use, you can try efferent fabrics like chamois to reflect and deflect sound waves. Felt is very useful because of its varied density and ability to provide resistance to the escaping sound waves. With electrostatic headphones you have what is called air damping, basically only air provides resistance to the thin diaphragm. Because ortho diaphragms are thicker they need more resistance and air by itself is not enough, so here felt comes in to play as it traps the air and creates a compressed air cushion to dampen the drivers. With different thickness felt you can control that resistance. You can also use it in the back of the cup (as well as cotton, fiber-wool and foam) to minimize reflections and vibrations. This is what wualta wrote some time ago about felt and damping:

Your Lambdas are very nice indeed

Passport - Passport - Doldinger (1972) Passport - Second Passport (1972) Passport - Hand Made (1973) Passport - Cross-Collateral (1975) JVC/Victor mini LP style CD reissues are very nice.

I like these new pads, I need to get them for my LNS, as well as new headband for it. Can you just change the leather portion without removing the plastic?

I try to make this entertaining

Error, error failure to read. Learn to read carefully. We were taking about the material of the screens.

I like the new pads they look comfy. No change in sound I assume.

So the newest version of the pads have cloth driver cover? Got pics of that?

wow, just read my post, I can't spell to save my life

Well if you look up my first post about these you will see that it was not a gloving review I like them but I still think they about at the level of YH-1 or T20, a bit better in many ways. So far non of the orthos I heard reach to the level of any Lambda variants. I would love to hear YH-1000 to see if it's close to O2. I bet the bass impact is very nice as with all the orthos. But how is the soundstage? I was thinking... As you might now I am a soundsatge freak. I can't image YH-1000 having soundstage beyond normal type headphones. The drivers are not angled and non of the headstage shaping technics are in place, does YH1K have good soundstage, what caparisons can you provide?

Well, I am not talking about this, doh. I am concerned with what could be causing the imbalance and can it get worth with age? Usually this is an indication of a problem with one of the panels, a dust cover or even a diaphragm issue in one of them can be damaged. My question was basically how easy are these to fix disassemble?

They seem to have channel imbalance. How difficult can this be to fix?

Yet the replacement parts on Fostex webpage are the same for all 3, it's a muddy issue that was mulled over in the other ortho thread before. Dusty will bring clarity to it, I hope

Cool. You have a T40 with new type driver, should be the same as new T50 driver. Take some pics of the insides for us, puhleazeee.

Not sure what you are responding to. Can you elaborate?

Hell, O2 is not dark even with my T1S with Toshiba tubes. Warm and very detailed, bass is controlled nicely but I can see how it can be tighter, since I played with a lot of orthodynamic headphones. I tried O2 with stock GES at the head-fi meet and I don't feel that T1S is inferior, different yes, but not inferior.

Yeah. It's simple take a look at my mode in the pic above, oh well let me re-post it one more time: Here some pics of the actual phones being modded: These were from the fist mod without the bluetack/bitumen. If you want to apply bluetack do it to the back of the cup, but don't block the vents. You can use open sell foam instead of cotton or mineral wool. Make sure not to damage the rubber posts as they serve to reduce vibrations/resonances to isolate the baffle from the back of the cup. The sound will change based on the felt type, foam type and the amount of foam and felt that you use. You can also use a reflex dot, small circle of adhesive paper applied to the back of the driver, to boot HF. I wanted a slightly darker signature so I did not do that to my set, but I tried it and it work really well if you want more HF; the large the dot the more HF you get. Good luck

My name is Dmitriy and I am a soundstage junkie. Where do I sign?

Yeah, but it all does not matter 'cos Sigmas got the soundstage and Lambdas, whichever version, do not have that special soundstage magic. To be honest I prefer Sigma soundstage to SR-007 and to all other headphones I heard, even K1000. I think with better drivers, much better than SR-404, and rigid housing a truly spectacular headphones can be created. Too bad that's just a pipe dream and Stax will most likely never make an updated Sigma version. Treat above with an assumption that you are taking to soundstage fanatic

T50RP are nice, about at T20v2 level but slightly better in clearity, bass and resolution. In no way do they even come close to good stat level of performance, IMHO, and I like modded YH-1 and YH-100 better. I also like stock T30 better, but comfort is nowhere as good for T30 as it for T50 T50s are very comfortable if a bit hot. Overall T50RP are really nice, easy to drive and comfortable. You will have to modify them to sound their best. If you don't want to go Smeggy on them, you can try my mod to since it's easy and if I can do it anyone can Fostex T50RP Mod

No way. He, whoever it is, is crazy

I am interested in this Buffalo DAC if it holds it's own against your TDA DAC. My TDA DAC has an tube output stage with Tantalum and Riken Ohm resistors, not sure it's the resistors or the tubes but the DAC sounds very smooth. There are pics in my albums on head-case.