n_maher

ie awomli oip fewo fewiio fwio pfiof !! :mad:

Hey, that would kind of , '/ LKL /LK 'mknc'C ML; /; /Ckl 'kLK?CASklm ACSL"KAS.

or if you're lazy, right click, view image and read the title bar.

And see I operate from the position that I never buy anything that I can't pay for right then and there.

Unfortunately you have to give him the 7 days but they you can do as grawk said and paint a big scarlet letter on his ass.

Translation:

As long as you didn't hook up the power backwards it's irrelevant to the discussion here. Did you flip the freakin' LED yet?

I think there are a few commercial products that use a pot to call the modules an "integrated" solution. But more research required, otherwise just throw a two channel something like a MINT upstream.

No, the anode is the positive leg (long leg) and should be wired to LED +.

I think you could put a pot on the front end of the Ice modules with out much of an issue.

I assume that the power supply is plugged into a jack right? If so, take the PS out of the jack, and given that your data sheet says pin positive you should shove the red meter probe inside the barrel connector and you can hold the black (negative) probe on the outside of the barrel. Unloaded you'll probably read a little higher than 24V, but that's not really a concern. Alternatively you could just measure across any of the power supply caps, I think that should yield half the power supply voltage since those caps are after the TLE splits the voltage. That might be a good check anyway to see if the TLE is doing its job correctly.

Don't trust the data sheet, check it with your meter. Measure the pads at the PCB and see what you're getting there. Also, measuring current with the opamps isn't going to yield anything meaningful. What are you using for buffers? Are they soldered on the bottom side? Pic?

I heard some pretty credible intel about a year ago and at that time Sennheiser was pretty concerned about the economy and demand for high end headphones. I can't imagine they feel better about that situation now.

And you're sure you have the PS wired correctly? Before you do anything else take the opamps out too.

Please tell me the wallwart is putting out DC and not AC.

Since the real amp doesn't exist yet I'm betting this is a prototype and that the lettering mistake in particular will be corrected in the production version. Edit: I think the lettering was printed on a clear overlay and that's what is making that panel look like poo more than anything else.

Someone should take one for the team and order one of these: TTVJ FET-A Headphone Amp [TTVJ FET-A] - $649.00 : TTVJ, Todd The Vinyl Junkie.

You were inspired by three rocks, one of which is blue?

@ Marc, whoa. Me: 2x 4-gang Alps RK27s. Let the balanced amp building commence (someday).

Mike, The degree to which you are stringing those guys along is epic. I love it.

Mostly just looking for a nice place that they might not go or find otherwise. I'll post general geography later. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Yup, it was inhaling batteries at a rate of about 1 every 3 weeks or so. According to everything that I've read it will be replaced instead of repaired and should be back any day now.

GTFO - I got Mike again? Did that really happen?

Unless you need video, and why you'd want video in your DSLR body quite frankly escapes me, pick up a D80 which is probably considerably less expensive now. I've seen bodies for ~$500 slightly used. Of course if you really want to take pictures and don't care about the street cred of the body I'd probably go after a D2H.