swt61

You should see the package Friday. Great news!

That was the only thing down here that sustained damage, it's totaled. I'll get it out Wednesday, as I have a few other items I need to mail then as well.

And left all his gear to -=ChildoftheHorn=-.

Yep, absolutely no damage down here. Thanks for the concern peeps.

Sorry about the power outages folks. It was a massive storm though, and it was inevitable that you Northerners would see some of it's wrath.

Something smells a little foul here.

Happy Birthday buddy!

My dick is so big that I was given the nickname Tripod in college. However I seriously doubt that anyone here cares or wants to hear about it (well maybe aerius). And oddly enough it hasn't seemed to make any difference whatsoever in headphone stand sales. So in case you haven't figured it out, it's perfectly OK to have a big dick, but don't be one!

There are some pics on my site...[url=http://www.s2-audio.com/]Welcome to S

I don't think it's going to be a major catastrophe here, but I'd rather not take any chances.

Fixed!

I've spent the last 3 days boarding up peoples homes and condos on this island. I don't really like that kind of work, but many of my customers don't know where else to turn. Most of my customers are in the very wealthy bracket, and I like to keep them happy. I just finished boarding up my own place 15 minutes ago, it's been a very long day. I have three more houses (mansions) to board up tomorrow, and then tomorrow night I'm hitting the road. Unless of coarse the storm (Ike) has moved significantly north by then. I have the motorhome loaded with groceries and fuel, and I have a reservation at a park in San Antonio. I should have internet access there, so I should pop in sometime Saturday.

1) Associate soldering with great sex. 2) Give yourself a Hershey's Kiss after every solder joint. 3) Have soldering parties, with alcohol and loose women. 4) Send it all to Nate.

Not anytime real soon. I believe naamanf is going to try to secure a kit from TPA with this latest availability. But we're waiting on the Femto as well. It will be incorporated into the DAC to control volume, switching and time travel.

I stand corrected. Ferrari uses but one LED on his lighted volume knobs I believe. Looks very nice, quite impressive. Blue?

Ferrari perhaps?

I have an extra pair of 32 ohm drivers Marc. You're welcome to them. Once the job slows down (late Oct.) I plan on trying some mini Donut style housings. I have two different donor phones that you're welcome to as well. A really cool looking pair of old Pioneer, and generic cheapo phone. I think the Pioneer will work without a lot of heavy modding.

I haven't had a chance to try them out yet, but from all the info I imagine they'll be pretty nice. Mine are 32 ohm, but they're are other impedances as well. I'll be transplanting a pair into some Darth Beyer woodies soon, but there will be some big modifications.

Yeah they are. The heatsinks are pretty tall, so that's why such long standoffs. I think they're going to work without shaving them. If you'll notice on the bottom of the long standoffs I've put some nuts, those should give us the space needed. Me too, but we'll solve that problem if it occurs. I'm not opposed to a separate case for the toroids if necessary.

^ Very nice Marc! I've gotten the case mocked up. It's a little unorthodoxed, because I had to suspend the second board from the top of the case. This was necessary because the standoffs were in the way otherwise. I don't actually have the second board on hand, so you'll have to use your imagination there. That's it in Marc's pic above. I ended up mounting the toroids in a piggy back configuration. The caps and rectifiers were a bit snug, but there is enough room. This was my first case up job, so go easy on me.

Happy Birthday!

Best to stick to code at any rate. And I too prefer a slightly taller step, but you have to take into account that many people will be using the steps, so I find that the 7" average works well as a goal. Codes are slightly different everywhere, but I'm positive that a 7" rise will meet all codes across the country. As far as ripping the boards Pars, if you have a fence that attaches to your circular saw (most come with one), then it's quite easy. They usually look similar to this one... QFT!

Thanks, I was hoping you'd like the Bloodwood OK, as it's the only wood I had on hand that was wide enough.

Yes good points Nate. That's exactly what I do as well, as you stated 2 x 8s aren't uniform even if they were the right size to start with.

Not sure about plans, but the good news is they're very simple to build. Ideally you'd like the rise of each step to be 7", and the tread to be 11". You can adjust those measurements to work with the total height you need, but stay close to them. Basically you're going to use 2 x 8 lumber to build your boxes. One box per step of coarse, and each box will be 22" narrower and 11" less deep than the one below it. You'll just construct a basic 4 sided box from the 2 x 8s, and use joist in between to strengthen the structure. Let's say you're going to build a two step box as in the pic you posted. Your top box will want to be the width of the door or wider. You can decide on the depth, but if you want a landing on top as pictured keep it relatively square in shape. Let's say for the sake of our conversation that the top landing is 3' x 3'. You'll want to cut two pieces of 2 x 8 to 3' length, and 3 pieces of 2 x 8 to 2' 9" in length. Then attach the three shorter pieces to the 3' pieces as shown... Making sure to attach the shorter outside pieces inside the longer 3' pieces. This will result in a 3' x 3' square box. Simply repeat this procedure for the step below, but make the next step 22" wider and 11" deeper. In this case that would be 58" wide x 47" deep. this will give you a tread width of 11" all the way around the three sides of the step. I'd add one more joist for a total of four on this box as well for added sturdiness. Once you have all the boxes built simply cut 3/4" plywood to the top dimension of each box and nail or screw the plywood on top of each box, making sure to mark your inside joist, so that you can see where to nail to these as well. The boxes can be joined with nails from underneath. Simply nail from the bottom of the plywood top into the joist of the smaller box on top. If you want them to be decorative like the steps in your pic you can add a layer of 1 x 8 Oak boards around the perimeter of each box. Mitered corners will look best here. Then use carpet or vinyl flooring to cover the plywood.