swt61

I was thinking about Migas tomorrow, with Chorizo.

Love that burled section! Sure is looking like a woodshop!

Sure was handy having two sets of drills and impacts, while building an Ipe deck at the bosses house. At certain locations I needed different, shorter screws, that took a square drive and needed a different size drill bit to predrill.

It's not. It's Chorizo con Huevos. 😛 Seriously though, this is the dish I learned in college. My first year was at a city college in Brownsville Texas, one block from the Mexico border. The ladies in the cafeteria all came across the border to work. This was served every morning, and I loved it. It was also my first experience with fajitas. The school sucked, but the food was delicious!

Chorizo con Huevos For Brent: That translates to Mexican (in this case) sausage and eggs.

That probably translated better in your head.

I watched that shootout the other day, and thought he was right on the money.

Oh damn, that's right. My senility is starting already.

Facsimile machine engaged.

Single legs are not necessarily going to be stronger. Especially Wenge, because there's going to be a section where the grain will cross the pattern and be very weak.

One thing I learned working in a Mexican food restaurant (many decades ago), is that peanut butter helps take away that burned taste. We used it in the refried beans if they got burned. A little bit does the trick.

Not Less Nessman. Say it isn't so! R.I.P. Howard.

Agreed. A sliding dovetail with a really strong species of wood would be the strongest option. I've seen it done with dominoes, but with a shallower angle. Even so, the sliding dovetail would still be superior. I also like the look of joinery like that. It shows craftsmanship. No doubt the angled legs look much nicer than the chunky, little feet. Especially on a mid century modern design. I would turn that base and legs on edge though. It'll still look great, but be immensely stronger.

Offset saw is a good idea in that space. What's your max cut capacity (length on the left side)? What are you planning between the cabinets (the space under the miter saw)? One thing I'd suggest is no miter fence on either side of the saw. Al and I both agree with the Wood Whisperer, that the only important fence is that of the saw. A fence on the cabinets could actually throw off a cut with a warped board. A T track set into the countertop on both sides of the saw, with a sliding stop block is all you need.

After researching, as much as I might like it, it surely wouldn't like me. I would have lava pouring out of my esophagus as soon as I layed down to sleep.

I don't know what chicken buldak is, but it sure looks delicious. Goes to research...

That's pretty damn cool! I literally feel like it's a whole new world. The sky is the limit on home manufacturing and problem solving ideas. For an old dude like me, it's kind of like the Jetsons coming true.

I don't miss that at all!

You can't even imagine how good they were!

Are we in the Paleolithic era? I can't imagine buying a jointer or planer today that doesn't have a helical head. I'll second Naaman's recommendations, I think Doug must have put the wrong mushrooms on his pizza!

I knew you'd love it! If you'd have bought two you could stack them, and then it's tall enough to play chess on. Or checkers if you're low brow. I discovered that my Makita miter saw also has a trenching feature. It's not as quick to set up as the Festool. Requires turning a screw, kind of like in a plunge router. But it worked great.

Quesadillas sounded good.

I can recommend Sherwin Williams Wall & Wood Primer and Sherwin Williams Emerald Eurethane Enamel paint. That stuff is Uber durable and easy to spray.

Ah, HDF. I'm not sure I could even find that locally.

Wait, WTF? Are those raised panel doors and drawers carved out of a solid chunk of MDF? Al just answered my question. That's fucking crazy. Crazy cool! That's a first for me.