The Monkey

That looks pretty cool. I like DACs. I also like the filter options.

Ok. I guess the first step will be to see if I can open up the damn things to get to the crossovers. As for the binding posts, is that a pretty straightforward swap? Anything general I need to know? In related news, the amp powering these speakers is an Adcom GFA-2, which, as far as I can tell, still works fine with the exception of the blown fuse. I emailed what I thought was the central Adcom parts place and they want $19.95 for the schematic/service manual. That seems kind of cheesy for a 20+ year old amp, doesn't it?

iirc some info I read stated that not all USB ports are created equal when it comes to power.

I noticed it when music stopped playing.

I was surprised to learn that the same guy who invented the aeropress invented this:

One wonders whether it's worth doing then... I think B&W may still sell the crossovers. Perhaps that's the way to go.

That's ok, I'll make sure to drink plenty of whiskey before I start the project.

Nonsense!

Got it. Thanks.

Saw this B&W answer in one of the FAQs at the support site: We usually find that customers who alter crossover components are not fully satisfied with the results. They find that some aspects are improved, but others made worse. A classic case of this is when a polypropylene or other very low-loss type substitutes an electrolytic capacitor. We all know that polypropylene capacitors can sound inherently better, but the change in internal losses changes the response of the filter, which is designed assuming the losses of the electrolytic component. What usually happens when the low loss component is fitted is that the corners of the roll-off are sharpened, giving a peak in the combined response that can make the sound unpleasant in various ways depending on the crossover frequency. One way of getting round this is to wire a small resistor in series with the capacitor to approximate the original losses. I say approximate because the loss factor is a frequency dependent resistance. The actual value you need depends on the original capacitor loss factor and its capacitance value. The larger the value, the lower the resistance for a given loss factor. The formula for the equivalent resistance is: R = d / 2

I suspect that's at least one thing that could be going on. In terms of the crossovers, considering my relative lack of DIY skill, should I just pick the exact same values for the caps but maybe go with a different brand, if indeed they should be replaced at all?

Tamaryn - The Waves I can't stop listening to "Love Fade." Cannot. Stop. Listening.

If the wires shorted in that way, would they possibly blow the fuse on the amp?

Marshall Headphones.

hm...

I found this on the above website. Does it make sense to you wise ones? http://www.bwgroup-support.com/downloads/techmanuals/bw/802-TM.pdf

Just fyi, this site seems helpful for B&W, Rotel, and Classe: B&W Group North America Service & Support Homepage

I should have gotten one of those. Unfortunately, that ship has sailed.

There's no power supply, true, but there is some protection circuit that has a battery in it--the speakers have small LEDs on the front. I think that's probably kaput at this point and have read elsewhere that it makes sense to just disconnect it.

I'm subscribed and very much interested. But I would put my chances of attending at 25%. Would love to see you all, though.

If someone would just buy the Dodson... But if another computer shows up in my apartment, I'll need to sell a lot more than just the DAC to fund the alimony payments.

I have no need for an MBA and want one. A lot.

I've read that replacing the caps on these is pretty easy. But you are, of course, correct; depends on getting them open. Yeah, all of the contacts in the system could use a nice cleaning. Is that Caig Deoxit stuff worth it, or is it so much snake oil?

Hard to tell, actually. According to my Dad, at some point the speakers caused the amp to blow a fuse. Is that possible? I also think the right speaker cuts in and out. Finally, the binding posts are old and dirty, so actually getting them hooked up right now is difficult if not impossible. I'm not sure how the current posts ever worked in the first place to be honest.