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jezz

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About jezz

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  1. If you can do with 3, I'd think OSH Park would work really well--probably $15-$20 for the size.
  2. I believe that's a "3607T" case. They've been popping up on the various Chinese exporters lately (eBay has some, aliexpress, etc.).
  3. Mine made it through customs and arrived in Boston on Friday. Thanks!
  4. Thanks Lil' Knight! Because the spreadsheet is open to anonymous edit and I haven't sent you money before, can you confirm your email address? I'd hate to send money to some jerk who changed the spreadsheet.
  5. jezz

    Deals

    Antek is selling recovered/salvaged transformers on their eBay store for around 10% off full price.
  6. jezz

    Deals

    Actually, I'm pretty sure none of that is OEM. From the redeemer: An interesting breakdown of various USB chargers can be found here, of note documenting the differences between a fake Apple charger and a real one. After reading that, I've started avoiding the fakes (available for pennies on eBay)--they scare me now.
  7. I designed these for a similar need a while ago but ended up not using them (SOT-223 and DPAK PNP transistors are somewhat layout-compatible). Probably wouldn't cost much to make in great quantity--also probably has some layout defects, because at the time I was thinking "oh, what if I slapped a heatsink on these?"
  8. Thanks for the info. I've got a 100W XYtronic which I've never had problems with. I was more wondering about how newbie-friendly this was supposed to be, though it makes sense that the Stax Mafia would put a good iron in every newbie's hands.
  9. On the power supply, I'm a little nervous about how close the 7912 output trace to the terminal block is to the heatsink mounting hole. Also, did you intend to ground the FET heatsinks? On the amp, all of the ground solder pads aren't split up to slow down the heat dissipation, so they'll suck to solder to on that size of a board.
  10. I just bought one of those CS8414 SMD-to-DIP boards because I had a DAC with a dubious CS8412. I decided on the CS8414 only because its jitter specs are better--24/96 is meaningless in my application. It works fine; I don't notice any sound quality difference between them, and I can't comment on if it locks any faster because that was the issue with the part it replaced. I saw that DIR9001 board (there's a slightly cheaper version here), but I didn't pursue it because I couldn't tell if it was truly compatible. It seems unlikely that it has all of the original functionality the CS8412/4 has
  11. What's different about the PCM1704's status? It's been NRND for a very long time. Compare that to the PCM63, which is explicitly marked as obsolete -- http://www.ti.com/product/pcm63
  12. I'm pretty pleased with the EAD DSP-1000 MKIII I just picked up on audiogon for ~$200. The MSB Link DAC III also sounds really good to my ears, though I haven't figured out why yet.
  13. Search on eBay for a CNC shaft coupler (like this one). They call them "flexible," but from experience they're not especially; I've used them before to extend the shaft of a control knob, and it's not like knob moved once it was mounted. Edit: Looks like johnwmclean beat me to it.
  14. I really want to see a picture of that top on with the glow of the amp's LEDs behind it.
  15. I've looked for HV-rated minigrabbers for a long time; not even Agilent makes one rated >300V (their U8201A kit says it's rated for 1kV, but the minigrabbers are still only 300V). There are alligator clips out there at 600V which are an okay replacement, but the minigrabbers seem fine to me when they're setup and not touched while live.
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