shipsupt

I found that I had inserted the bridge backwards on the last PSU that I recently posted. Instead of matching for the "notch" on the bridge to the markings on the board I mistakenly put it in with the positive towards the + mark that was actually for the nearby capacitor. Seems like a rather silly mistake, but there you go. After considering stripping that board to find out the full extent of the damage, and considering I was not happy with some of the joints I went ahead and built up another PSU since I had the parts. Eventually I'll go back and see if I can salvage that other PSU On testing today +/-504V, +/- 15V

I want a copy so I can torture my kids with it.. "Finish it and you can have a new computer" or something like that.

Happy Birthday!

I can't help but be reminded of the age old saying "Riding a scooter is like riding a fat chick, it's a lot of fun until your friends see you". Or something like that...

Glad to help. It looks like your patience is going to pay off with a very nice table.

You know that arm has a height adjustment built in? From the looks of your photo it's currently adjusted almost all the way down. You can get quite a bit of height out of it by loosening the collar at the base and sliding the pillar up. Sorry if you knew it already and were looking for moar height!

HBJ!

Ditto emooze, I have a few spare boards, happy to share if you need one, but I'm in the UK so there would be some shipping involved...

Will do. It will be slow and steady at this point, so it make take a little time.

Thanks everyone for the input, guidance, etc... Glad to see my crap work brought a little life to the thread. I'll be cleaning, testing, and fixing for a bit. For sure I did not insulate the 78XX and 79XX as I misinterpreted earlier post on the topic and indeed thought that they were grounded and since the board didn't have the ample room for the ceramic (as it does on other parts) I made the bad assumption that it wasn't needed. I'm straight on it now. I'm afraid I'm with Eggil, I somehow doubt that the net result was only the arcing, the resistor didn't even actually blow. I can't help but think I'll find some other damaged parts. Back to work.

Maybe not a good night for KGSShv power boards! I powered up my board for the first time and had a nice little spark at R17. I was not able to keep it powered up to do any checks as it was giving me a nice steady snap, snap, snap. Nothing else visually appears damaged. After removing the resistor (which tested OK after removal) I noticed this hanging solder and wondered if I had a cold joint that allowed some arcing? Do I need to protect that board now where the arc has gouged into the copper? I tried putting another resistor in and had the same result, arcing in the same spot. I'm calling it a night, starting to get tired which is not a good time to start trouble shooting high voltage.

The wife and I just started season 1 and we are digging it. No Rosie Larsen spoilers!

Thanks. I've seen the thread over at the other place where that guy is putting in all kinds of crazy stuff in. I'm happy to keep it stock and make it reliable.

Thanks gents. I was trying to keep this thing limping along until my KGSShv is done. Time to get that project done and spend some time with this guy. I'll some more testing to see if I can narrow things down to one componenet, but I'm thinking just doing a recap at this point is going to be a good idea. Any other parts in there I should consider replacing while I'm at it?

I'm a little surprised at spritzer didn't say as long as we've got them lets build a monster around them. Thanks for catching the Mouser error. I'll be sending them back this week. Hopefully that will get them to cover shipping because beer can size is about right and they are full and heavy!

My 717 has been cutting out intermittently. My crappy powers of deduction lead me to believe that my source was tripping the DC input protection circuit, but after changing the source I eventually had the same issue. I took the amp to the bench to set DC offset and balance. I bench tested for hours and everything was AOK. Moved it back into the "rack" and after a short time I had a trip again. I decided to pull the amp out of it's normal spot and see if heat was my issue. I ran it overnight in the open with no problem. So now I'm thinking heat is my issue. How much space do these amps need for cooling? It had easily 3 inches above it and the room is not warm (I'd guess 16-18C ambient temperature right now). I could place my hand on the amp when it tripped and it was hot, but not so warm that I couldn't keep my hand on it. If it is being a little "over sensitive" to heat what are some things I should consider checking? Thanks. Thread searches have gotten me this far, so appreciate the help from the "archives" already.

Note to self... always double check your Mouser order. I'm not sure I'll ever find a use for these! Oh, and there were 4 in the box that showed up.

Bummer. Makes me think about using one of my Toroidy's instead of the SumR.

I like what you did with the front! Nice.

Wow, two great looking builds. Lots of inspiration!

I should have looked harder... they were right under my nose. I just ordered 25 from Bdent. I was so surprised that they had them in stock after not finding them at a bunch of other suppliers that I called and he confirmed he has them. I'm not sure how many he has, but if anyone is looking you might consider checking with him. $4.95 each I was also able to get the Toshiba 2SC2705's and 2SC1815's which were also showing obsolete on Mouser as well. Of course I'm not counting chickens yet, not until I have them in hand, but I'm feeling better tonight than I did last night!

Is the NTE2588 an acceptable substitute for the Toshiba 2SC4686A, which is near impossible to track down now.... I compared data sheets and they are very close, but there are some subtle differences, but it seems like the major specs match and physically they should fit... I think. Example, the continuous collector current on the NTE is 30mA, the Toshiba is 50. NTE2588 Data Sheet http://www.nteinc.com/specs/2500to2599/pdf/nte2588.pdf 2SC4686A Data Sheet http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/408/7834-30958.pdf Of course if there is another alternative, this is the first I've found and investigated. I'll be doing the same for the 2SA970 and 2SC1815 next...

Thanks. That makes it easy...

I am doing my build while living in the UK, but will move back to the US in a few years. I am finalizing my transformer order (Sumr) and was considering getting a dual primary winding. Is there any downside to having the dual windings?

It's obviously the Dark Star he was using that made them sound so good...