sbelyo

Thanks, I'm sure I'll need the help. I remember the lil kinght boards are SuSy but were layed out for the LT jfets and had a regulator for the servo power. The THAT340 boards did away with the regulator and added the THAT340, probably some other changes as well to account for sand that went out of production. Since I have the parts for both I'll most likely build them and see what I like better. I figure why not since I'm only populating the amp boards and drilling the heatsink mounts for the second set

Mine too... I have a single ended version from the original headwize site with the jfets and a dynalo mini as well. I have two sets of amp boards, the lil knight version and the that340 version. I have the parts for both and jfets for both so I'm not sure which one I'll build. I'm leaning towards the lil knight boards first, we'll see I guess

Dusted off the PSU for the Dynahi. Will try to finish this by next week. CanJam got me all fired up! I realized how good my setup sounds compared to some high end stuff there so I figured I'd finish this project.

Kerry's amp sounded great! It was great to meet ya finally. Didn't get to listen to the T2 sadly

Cool, I'll be there

Anyone going this weekend?

Thanks... I had no idea you can do it by picture

Can anyone here translate japanese to english on this dvd cover? I wanted to know if is says 2 ch audio in english?

I'm reposting my parts list as someone requested it. Probably needs to be double checked Project_Nov08_0152PM.xls

I'll try to find that just to see. I use Dire Straits Brothers in Arms to judge upgrades I Have those headphone and am considering making a cable from Cardas cable. Need to finish my dynahi first

Its silver plated. It sounded just like you describe. I was wondering if it would settle down with some break in. I think I prefer copper myself. Think I'm going to start using Cardas for chassis and interconnects now

I made these over the last week. The blue pair is Cardas 2 x 21.5 AWG. The white pair is 2 x 24 AWG SPC mil spec from navships. The navships cable is a step up from the Mogami that I was using. Cost was $35 After a week I really like it but found it to sound bright. The Cardas is a step beyond the navships cable. Sounds neutral to me. No harsh highs or bloated lows. After 5 hours I'm liking this one the best out of all three. Cost was $65

I want to make a couple sets using different coax cable available on the net. I want to use solder connectors not compression. I'm looking for something flexible. I've ordered Belden GS-4 and some 26 AWG shielded silver plated from navships. Anybody used Belden 1505F?

It's a core i5 system built around this: https://www.asrock.com/mb/intel/H110M-STX/ The next step is to power My Amenero directly with 5V

The PSU is finished and in place in the rack. At day one I couldn't really hear any difference. The second day I left it on all day then listened at night and there was a positive difference. It's subtle but seems to get better a little each day. It was worth the experiment per se.

That makes sense to me. I figured I'd only switch pin 2 and 3.

I haven't built a dynalo with them but I built several cmoy 's back in the day just to explore resistor sound. I used Vishay Dale RN60D, Holco H8, and Xicon. Xicon came in last to my ear so I avoid them if I can. I also use the IVY III output stage for my DAC and that uses Xicon resistors in it's stock form. I switched them out for PRP and it was an improvement. So I have two instances where I didn't like them in the signal path. But feel free to try, YMMV and nothing ventured nothing gained etc. etc.

what's their website? I'd be interested in LSJ109 in TO-71 6L I always wanted to hear the LSK389/LSJ109 but missed the boat on the LSJ

That's cool! I'd like to see those as I want to use for two other projects where space is at a premium

yeah, that's what I ended up going with. Salas's stuff is great! The first board I posted was too risky as there was nothing to prevent the full rectified voltage reaching the PSU if the regulator failed. Salas tested his supply for failure a few different ways with no problems if the regulator failed.

Here's the completed working PSU. My first build of 2021

lol, Amazon is too funny

I agree... Goldpoint make a 1 in 2 out or 2 in one out for $395 That'd be about what it would cost to build what I'm taking about. I see lots of 4x1 and 1x4. Where else should I look? There's this https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Balanced-Converter-Audio-Selector/dp/B07D7P7366/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwNWKBhDAARIsAJ8HkhdVZLw63nCWM4jSmKFyh-5ElXROxIQhrO9XIg34HmDjhiCDc2hbdOsaApLkEALw_wcB&hvadid=474280920474&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003511&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15182943523645060152&hvtargid=kwd-309276109139&hydadcr=17980_10939357&keywords=balanced+audio+switcher&qid=1633030674&sr=8-10

I'll soon have the need to switch between two different sources and amps and I'm two projects behind even starting my preamp. I want to put together a 2 in 2 out switch. If I use 4P2T switches how should I manage the shield (pin 1)? Or should I use 3P2T2D and not worry? I'm just trying to see if I can get away with 1 deck instead of two?

Ha, good point. The reviews look good. I'm swayed toward less is more now. I always liked that those dacs are upgradeable and the trial period