sbelyo

That's a good point as I tend to resell before I buy another. I think I want the Baltic Aquascaphe in Black/Cream for my next watch at this point. I just needed something to push me in that direction

Anyone have one of these or know of Archimede https://www.archimede-watches.com/pilot-42gmt.-m.-s

wow! This is deep

Indeed... the radiators in the winter months are occupied frequently Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ramones Pet Semamtary while my Sphynx soaks up the heat from a BIII Pro fed by a core i5

F'n awesome ! Thanks Pars Here's the parking spot

I can tell you that I used a $5 usb cable from Amazon in my setup for a year or so. I figured there was enough isolation and reclocking in the Amanero/Chronos/Rhea stack that a better cable wouldn't matter. I was able to get a hold of an Audioquest Cinnamon USB cable for $35 out of pocket so I thought let me try it. I'll tell you I tried to remain as objective as humanly possible but I heard a positive difference with the better quality cable.

In similar situations I sometimes make the techs realize that the client is paying their salary. I usually get silence after that and then my way. However I understand the situation

+1

I'll check again, but I think they were 6-7ma

I had the 389's and got the 109's from a guy on diyaudio that had a good rep. I measured the resistance between pins 1 and 3 then 5 and 7 and they both came out at like 50 Ohms. Then I checked them with a transistor tester and they both showed up as jfet. As far as I can tell they're real.

built some JFET boards for a Dynalo Mini

I wound up ditching that kit I got from ebay since there was little in the way of protection if the regulators failed. A few weeks ago Salas over at DIY audio came up with the L-Adapter board. He tested failure in three different ways all of which ended with 0V on the output. I got the board last week and will be ordering parts in a few weeks https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/336685-adapter.html I should have all the parts by the end of August

I have one... Do you still need them?

Get well bro... I know all about underestimating recovery time tables. I had major ankle surgery in February and I'm still on crutches lol

I wouldn't mind doing a run for all the boards needed for a complete system with volume control and source selection. I know Kerry was working on or has code for the volume control

This thread took me down a two hour rabbit hole and made me real sorry I sold my Sub Mariner. That being said does anyone have a Tudor Black Bay, and how do you like it?

Did anyone ever put this together with the selector boards that were run? I was looking at AMB's setup for volume and selecting sources but I seem to remember somebody saying that his attenuator won't work with the amps here. It would be cool to put this together with the SE/BAL to BAL/SE board

I have an Alpha board, pot and case that I will not use if you need it

Anyone interested in a Universal Signal Isolator shield for the Arduino DUE? http://www.dimdim.gr/arduino/universal-signal-isolator-shield-for-the-arduino-due/ Found this while looking up how to add a display to my dac. I'm looking to order some boards so I thought I would see if there is any interest here

too sad

it's a very good output stage but for me in stock form it's a tad bright. For the SE outputs I swapped the opamp out to OPA1642. That gave me the sound I was looking for along with amtrans filtering caps and PRP resistors. I just want to see if building another one with 0.1% PRP's and Silmic II electrolytics makes a difference

The Longshot is one of my favorites. The toilet bowl scene is classic

I'm building this to see if I can improve on the sound of the first one that I built using 1% PRP's. The original kit uses yageo and when I swapped them for PRP the sound improved so I figure why not try to match to 0.1 to see if it makes a difference. You're probably right but the PRP's are only $0.35 a piece so I figure it's worth a try. That was my other thought as well. I priced out a full set from TC and it was like $382 so I'm not gonna do that route I bought this meter since it seems to fit what tangent recommended for matching resistors and wasn't expensive https://www.ebay.com/itm/113744202815 I'll order 10 resistors for each position to see how close I can get

I looked at those briefly, anywhere from $10 - $15 each. There's 28 total resistors needing 0.1% the schematic is here http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/linestages/ivy3_schematic_1_0.pdf The 0.1% resistors are R1-R4 R5-R12 R13-R16 R17-R24, R32-R35 I will look this up and give it a try Thanks