spritzer

Yeah, ohm's law against some some fucknuts on HF who think moar expensive = moar better, moar bling = moar soundz!!!

Woot Al, team milled chassis FTW!!! I spent most of the day working on some stuff plus trying to convert FLAC's to ALAC's to cram on the iphone. Worked like a charm just in time for the drive to the summerhouse for a dinner with the family which I dread every year... Way too much drink with some people who shouldn't touch the stuff.

Yay for Todd!!!!!

That sucks Steve...

Yup, same design as the rest of the post 1994 Lambdas.

I do most of my countersinking with a hand held drill and just one bit for the standard 3-4mm screws I use.

It's a bit fiddly but I've never had any trouble with it. It's just a small tube with a cut in it so that it can compress held in place with friction. \

The forks are easy to replace so it shouldn't be a problem to get a new one from Stax.

10W shouldn't have any trouble fitting onto the board. There are also 180K/5W resistors on ebay but they aren't cheap...

Happy Birthday!!!

We have plenty of those.

The SR-007Mk2.5 that is? Without opening it up I can't be sure but the newer models have sealed ports and the earpads aren't quite as protruding as on the very first units.

As with so many crazy people, they are Icelandic...

I had 3 Mk2's and 3 A's, all of which were identical and had the same issues. All of them "fixed" and still with the original buyers. ...or reading my mind. Either way works for me... I usually try to scrape off as much glue as is possible with a razor blade and then try to lift off the rest with tape. All the chemical solutions I've tried still don't work better then a length of tape and there is zero chance of damaging the drivers.

Most of the non-US manufacturers wire the XLR's like that according to some standard which I'm forgetting at the moment.

Nahh, they are just releasing SR-303/404 Mk2's and have fixed the SR-007Mk2 to make it sound good again.

I prefer the SR-202 for this alone. It sounds more like a Lambda Nova then the 303/404

I've used nylon standoffs with either nylon screws or nuts and no issues what so ever.

SRM-T1 Let the crazy modding begin... Either that or Justine...

True dat!! I'm sure the ALO Rx would also have worked better since people are reporting great results with the HE-5/6 and K702...

Maker of the worst measuring headphones in existence?

About the sockets, take a look at these. You are absolutely right so simply finding some 2SK389's is well worth it or just bending the legs of a metal can LSK389. Yup, those are LED's and the RLED can be what ever you want it to be. It runs off the +15VDC line so a 1k5 resistor would work or something like the 3k3 which I use since I hate bright blue lights. Yup. No need for chassis mounted heatsinks either so any box large enough will do.

Well this isn't food per se, but rather industrial supplies.

Spent all day battling with the 3GS I bought from Mike, upgrading it to 3.1.2 and then jailbreaking/unlocking it. It works now but damn I don't like Apple one bit...

SRM-XH I've gotten a few PM's asking how to convert the small Stax amps to balanced operation and there really isn't much to it besides the issue of a 4 gang pot and finding inputs which fit the chassis. Now the SRM-XH I had used the green double layer PCB but some have a singe layer board and I haven't tested that as if yet. The whole point is to mimic the input as it is now and copy that to the other side of the 2SJ109. Here is how the input looked in my amp: Now I just ordered some 1/8W resistors and a cap and mounted this underneath the board using the holes which the 100R resistor used previously. I also replaced all the electrolytic caps in the amp with higher rated units and ran the amp at 14VDC and people quite liked it at CanJam even with it sitting next to the T2.