spritzer

Now those I would buy. Perfect for planar speakers and to weld speaker cables together...

These headphones have very different needs when it comes to amplification though I wouldn't group the two Senn HE's together as the HE60 simply adores more power while the HE90 doesn't. Both do take the more "romantic" side of the spectrum so are better suited for audiophiles while the BH and SR-007 aren't. When you get to this level of performance you have to decide which you like better, the rose tinted view or the brutal honesty of a clear window.

Rudi has made a few dozen and they still don't work right so you should do better...

Something like an Egmont is almost impossible to screw up as it is less complicated then a CMOY.

Would that be the amp rumored to finally bring some bass out of electrostatics?

More like trying to figure out how these elektttrooostattikks work...

Yeah, there is a quite a bit of heat that the beast throws off. It helps during the cold winter evenings here...

The BH didn't need a lot of adjustment even after months of use. Plastic adjuster is a must have as well

There are no dual triodes to balance out and the multi-turn pots Justin uses are far less "twitchy" then the single turn crap Stax uses. I would start off with the better new production tubes and try the old production stuff later. Just be sure to buy the tubes from good sellers or have a tube tester handy. These are power tubes in every sense of the word (biased at 10w each) so if they fail odds are that they will take that channel with them. Just ask pabbi1...

Both, there are two bias pots per channel and you need matched pairs for the channels or just a matched quad. That amp is easier to work with then my old unit since you can remove the top panel (no Black Gates sticking out). Just PM me Mike if you want the instructions to bias the amp. I've spent a lot of time tuber rolling that amp and it will sound horrid with those stock tubes. The best new production stuff I found were the SED's and the Mullard weren't half bad from the first batch. The Mullard XF-1 and XF-2 tubes are the ultimate you can get but they aren't cheap. XF-3's are good too if you can get them cheaply and the East-German RFT "Dimple top" tubes are a good budget option as well. The GE and Sylvania "Fat Boys" have a very different and bloated sound with overblown bass and a bit odd midrange but some owners like them with the Senn HE's.

The decision to stick with the Neutrik connector is absurd since they are already having a Stax connector custom made for the adapter. If they do decide to release a stat' amp then they will most likely have a HE centric design while the Little Dot amp will have a Stax socket an be probably a lot cheaper to boot. I won't buy a set but a fellow Stax nut told he would and he wants me to recable it for him and see if I can make it better in any way. If it goes through you can expect photos of the Jade gutted sometime in the new year.

Two words of advise, Mullard XF2.

1800$ is on the insane side of the spectrum but one has to wonder how much the "distributor" is marking them up. We all know how much Yama's charges on every Stax sold in the US... There is massive hype for these so my guess is that this more of a "what the market will take" type of pricing rather then in any connection to what it costs to produce them.

I do seem to recall somebody talking about something similar but I'm not sure who...

Oh crap!!! I'm not worried though since Ray doesn't even know what a CCS is... and he sells tube amps...

Besides very light electrical wiring which is perfect for planes, rockets etc?

Very cool but looks like it suffers the same LF problems as plasma.

To some extent yes.

Yup, it's the BH that I'm talking about and if it was supposed to be known it would be on the official schematic.

Just in case anybody missed this on the other site, the story of the Mullard Blackburn factory Me loves my XF2's...

Craig is a great guy but the prices for the R10 are way out of hand. Have any of these people ever heard of speakers?

Very hard since most of the amps sold on the market don't function correctly, eat tubes for breakfast or even damage the headphones. I know of at least two Blue Hawaii's that have gone up in flames and even if you can get it to work, it isn't running at 100% since the schematic isn't complete and lacks some very important bits. The Gilmore 0A2 amp would be much easier to build and just about anyone can build an Egmont (except Rudi that is).

Soldering of SMD parts will be the tricky stuff as casework is more annoying then hard. I would recommend a good drill press though and good drillbits to start off with.

Yup, at something like 6-700$ for the Koss system new it is a screaming deal even without the lifetime warranty. The BQ isn't that bad and I'm sure we know some woodworkers that could turn them into a HE90-like contraption...

The Koss may look like a cheap piece of shit but its build quality is good enough and far superior to the He60 where it actually counts, i.e. driver coupling and how the drivers are constructed. Both are far from perfect though...