spritzer

One more data point on the 207, to date three of my KGSSHV mini's have been bought by recording studios as the final mix monitors. I'm not allowed to name the studios but they are...well known... let's just say that. Anyway all of them use the 207 for this even though price really wasn't an issue. Granted they need to take into account just how much abuse they must suffer but primarily it was the sound. I must say that the measurements Tyll did helped a lot as honestly, how many chains will give you these THD numbers? This is at the same time that there is some consensus on HF that the KGSS is super bright and the KGSSHV even more so. Everybody knows that the KGSS is slightly on the warmer side (due to the third stage lack of CCS which I countered in Tyll's amp) and the KGSSHV is pretty much dead neutral. If it is bright well then how about looking at the phones or the source? These amps are wires with gain (and a lot of it at that) so they must naturally be the culprit. Yeah that makes sense...

Some vinyl cleaners work wonders but it's a trial and error stuff. Take care of those earpads as there are no replacements. *Raises hand*

That is indeed the issue. The core sizes for the R's are fixed but the Chinese manufacturers don't care too much about that. As for posting pics, that won't work as out of a batch of two, one transformer might be fine while the other one is garbage. Some have been truly terrible with dangerous lead wires and truly terrifying build quality. The bottom line is that I'm staying with toroids for now.

It should be enough but I never measured the current draw of the SRA-10S.

It's from China and some are ok, others cause a lot of issues.

Nope, my own version of the BH circuit.

I have a PS-800 as well and I've never had a tip become loose. It is the PS-800e (or something like that) so they could have updated the pen for that model.

OKI/Metcal PS-900. I use two of them and wouldn't touch anything else.

The plates are gold anodized...

Well with Toroidy one never knows but I'm running at 160mA on my way over spec transformers with no issues.

The EHT has been refurbished plus some other fixes here and there but I know that 48 year old panels aren't working correctly. A refurbed unit will not sound the same as it will be working correctly.

I would move the transformer further away from the volume control as it is so prone to pickup noise there. Ohh and you need at least 12mm stand offs if you want to mount the boards directly to the sinks. My latest ones have all the holes removed to make mounting this way easier.

Gotta do some dynamic amps as well. Show people how they should be done as there is an awful amount of crap out there. Late last year. There was a local set for sale that I tried to avoid but I finally broke down when the owner called me out of the blue. Apparently it is known here now that I like electrostatics... They are just sitting unused for now but I'll probably ship them out to be completely refurbed.

The Susy needs max 10K so I had to use some of my TKD's.

As I've been promising to do for months I'm finally working on some dynamic amps. Here is something new, a Susy Dynalo with switchers... Running at +/-18V there.

They might just do that sitting there. I do wonder if these utilize the particles found in the Jade. Basically the diaphragm was covered in some gunk on purpose which made them far from silent when sitting idle. Such epic stupidity is quite hard to fathom...

The design of this has absolutely nothing to do with me having Quad ESL57's and a new big living room...

Most excellent.

Some internal pics wouldn't hurt... We can see pretty much what is going on but it would be nice to be sure.

That's so fucking true that it isn't even funny. Danish is impossible to understand let alone speak.

Just as small heads up, I've extended the sale until midnight on Tuesday to help a couple of people. Also makes sense to let it stand for a week.

When Stax did 100V only amps back then they just wired the sockets every which way as they were never supposed to be used with the plug. You need to completely match the picture above but it looks like you are lucky, just move the green and brown to the their correct spots and add the other white wire. Just make sure it is the right one as Stax always used two white ones for some reason. Hehe I'd say most on HF wouldn't call us nicer but welcome. Here we talk about the stuff that actually matters, not the stupid crap HF calls a Stax thread these days.

DIdn't we call them Mk2.9 or something like that but yeah, very latest version is great. Serial numbers can't be used to see what version they are so just get a new 007A from Japan.

Yeah I'm not sure if I want to become any more famous. My friends googled me once and saw me pop up in strange languages all over the world. Still we need to spread the gospel a bit further as a 727/009 isn't top of the line as some might think. Part of that plan is the rebuild the Unofficial Stax Page with info about all the Stax headphones plus other electrostatics.

The LED's are not a good way to troubleshoot the amp. Tubes being lit means nothing, the heaters are just pilot lights really. To actually troubleshoot anything, start checking voltages.