![](https://www.head-case.org/forums/uploads/set_resources_1/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
UFN
Returning Member-
Posts
260 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by UFN
-
If some out there has an (as yet) unfulfilled death wish or just wants to build a massive PSU, I guess you can't beat this offer http://www.partsconnexion.com/RIFA-77696.html //UFN
-
//UFN
-
FWIW I've bought from "alweit" and his parts look good to me. Service was good too. //UFN
-
The RK27 is the standard Alps "Blue". The "double-decker" ones are called RK168 //UFN
-
Looks good! Still haven't actually powered mine up - must get round to that soon... //UFN
-
I have Carbon boards as well, but unlikely to have time to do anything with them for at least a couple of months. Even if they are not the newest version I assume they are OK to use? //UFN
-
and now for something completely different part 3
UFN replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
Looks good, keep us posted when you finish the other channel Just out of interest, which caps did you use for the 4.7uF/47uF positions? //UFN -
That worked, thanks for the tip In other news, I fixed the offset-issue. Didn't have to do anything except realize that the servo op-amp is a dual-OP and not the usual OP27 Note to self, read the schematic properly FFS! //UFN
-
Oh well, I replaced the 20K trimpot with a 50K and the result is - nothing! Exactly the same values as before, meaning 1.45-1.5V across the 10R resistor and 2.15-2.2V offset on the output. Will have to keep looking I guess... //UFN
-
It's probably the same that a few of us got from another ebay-seller a while ago; genuine but very old (pre-RoHS). They look the same at least. //UFN
-
Think I may have found the problem (or at least part of it). The trimpot is 25K in the schematic and I used a 20K (because that's what I had) but it is 50K in the BoM above. That might be why I haven't got enough adjustment range? The 2.2V offset is with the servo in place BTW. //UFN
-
Finally managed to put the boards together and test them. They seem to work fine, but I am unable to get the voltage across the 10R resistor below app. 1.45V and I have app. 2V offset on the output. Any ideas on what the problem is?? //UFN
-
and now for something definitely different part 4
UFN replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
Very interesting! //UFN -
Assuming it is working then congrats on a job well done //UFN
-
Not much experience with Molex, but I have used equivalent JSTs quite a bit (VH, XH, PH types etc.). With a bit of care then they are quite easy to solder (as long as you have something that can hold the connector) and a needle-nose plier is then all that is needed to shape the connector to fit in the housing. However, cripting is still a bit easier so on a trip to Japan last year I bought one of these. That will crimp most of these connectors without the need for a dedicated tool per type. Quality is quite good although I can't comment on how long it will last. //UFN
-
Bel Canto? //UFN
-
I believe the DIYA GB ones were Conrads 350mm profile in 151.5 (6") length - at least the two Conrad GBs I recall seeing. //UFN
-
I hope so, because I just received mine //UFN PS: Looking at heat sink options for the Carbon at the moment - how much do I actually need?
-
Aww, you gotta show us more than that! //UFN
-
Anyone already bought this one and/or seriously considering it? Seriously tempted to try one against my M-Dac with the added bonus that it could drive my T1s directly More info: http://soekris.com/products/audio-products/dam1021.html https://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/building-soekris-r-2r-dac/ and a couple of gargantuan diyaudio-threads //UFN
-
The MPSAs should be OK everywhere except in the Dynalo where the extra power handling of the MPSW package is required. //UFN
-
All my spares are gone, sorry. //UFN