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UFN

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Everything posted by UFN

  1. Thanks @sorenb, looks like my math was correct. I built a PSU dummyload a while ago, so that's not a problem. If I have to start looking around for cheap EL34s for testing then so be it, but I was hoping I could maybe put my collection of Fluke meters to use instead
  2. Been slowly plugging away at a pair of GG-boards for a while now and I'm getting ready to order the last parts (I hope...). Two questions though: Kevin quoted 16W dissipation for the 10m90s a few pages back, but is that per board or per device (i.e. 32W per board)? I'm planning to use a 450V PSU, probably a BH-PSU since I have a board left over and I'm not sure I can fit a Carbon PSU in the intended chassis anyway. Also, once the amp boards are done is there a way to verify that all voltages are OK before I plug in tubes? (or better still, before I even buy the tubes ) //UFN
  3. Neat. And no volume control - I have been thinking about that as well //UFN
  4. Not sure about the DCA75, but FWIW I have both the smaller DCA55 and the DY294. The DCA55 is brilliant but the DY294 has a couple of features that the DCA55 hasn't. First of all it has the HV breakdown test for (potentially) spotting fake HV-transistiors and secondly it can measure BJTs at different base currents. The DCA55 only tests BJTs at 2.5mA collector current which honestly isn't much if it's a driver- or powertransistor. So, my conclusion would be that I actually need both If I had to only get one it would probably be the DCA55 though, and the DCA75 might have even more features. //UFN
  5. Excellent! Much appreciate your efforts on this //UFN
  6. Go for it! Was actually interested in the CFA3 myself, but I have so many in-progress projects that I just will not do. On the list for 2017 though //UFN
  7. FWIW I'd vote for the black one as well //UFN
  8. Was actually considering doing my own GRLV before, but I'm convinced now Looks nice IMHO. //UFN
  9. That's probably from the first GB (check the beginning of the thread). It should be fine to build if you have the parts, but they are all obsolete now, so if you are missing something it might be hard to get hold of. IIRC the newer boards were mostly made because the old parts weren't available any more, not because the newer parts are better. //UFN EDIT: Hang on, you are writing "the board" as in one? - remember one board = one channel.
  10. I remember walking around small electronics shops in Taipei and seeing these "Alpha" pots in quite a few places that definitely wouldn't buy 1k pcs at a time, so a local Taiwanese manufacturer makes a lot of sense to me //UFN
  11. Would be interested in a pic of the SJ74s before I commit, but YGPM anyway //UFN
  12. I believe Kevin's schematics normally assume 1.7V red LEDs, e.g. Mouser p/n 859-LTL-307ELC. //UFN
  13. http://www.familygate.eu/alps/PDF/RK27114_10KDX4.pdf //UFN
  14. The opamp is just a servo, so not much point in replacing the existing OP27s. As for headphones I believe this is intended for low-impedance phones so the 600ohm Beyers probably aren't the best choice. //UFN
  15. Agree that not quoting a price up front can be problematic. However, not wanting payment until the customer as completely satisfied with the work done sounds like a commendable business practice (it's tends to be the other way around - pay up front and then pray that you'll be happy with the work afterwards ). //UFN
  16. Paid the last "installment" and updated the sheet. //UFN
  17. On the other hand, it might be the cheapest shaft extension we'll ever be offered so I'm at least very excited //UFN
  18. I would suggest a) that the shaft length should be 25mm (above the threaded part) for both the CP601 and the CP2511 and b)) out of consideration for @MLAthat we limit the choice to two options (regular/long shaft) for each model @MLAHave added 2 pcs. CP2511 to the sheet. I'll pay the difference over my original payment tonight. //UFN
  19. What's you connection/grounding scheme? //UFN
  20. What I was after was simply that the shaft itself (non-threaded part) was 20-25mm like on the Alps pots instead of the stock 14mm for TKD. If you need it shorter it should be easy to trim with a small hacksaw or a dremel-type tool anyway (clamp shaft the while cutting to avoid any mechanical damage). My rationale is simple: I normally countersink pots from the front, because it's simpler and it can be done without a mill if needed. Any work on the back of the panel requires a mill or CNC because you normally have to make room for the whole body of the pot, pcb etc. in order to get it more than a couple of mm. deep. A longer shaft also should make it easier to mount and center the large knobs typically favoured by the HC community ( ) Extending the threaded part would of course work as well, but as that would make it difficult to use the pot with thin front panels so I wouldn't recommend going this way (or ask that we do so). //UFN
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