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Everything posted by UFN

  1. What's you connection/grounding scheme? //UFN
  2. What I was after was simply that the shaft itself (non-threaded part) was 20-25mm like on the Alps pots instead of the stock 14mm for TKD. If you need it shorter it should be easy to trim with a small hacksaw or a dremel-type tool anyway (clamp shaft the while cutting to avoid any mechanical damage). My rationale is simple: I normally countersink pots from the front, because it's simpler and it can be done without a mill if needed. Any work on the back of the panel requires a mill or CNC because you normally have to make room for the whole body of the pot, pcb etc. in order to get it more than a couple of mm. deep. A longer shaft also should make it easier to mount and center the large knobs typically favoured by the HC community ( ) Extending the threaded part would of course work as well, but as that would make it difficult to use the pot with thin front panels so I wouldn't recommend going this way (or ask that we do so). //UFN
  3. Did you ask TKD about the shaft length? The 2511 data sheet actually says "Special order of the shaft length is possible. Please contact us for details." but of course no indication of what's required //UFN
  4. Is any customisation possible? I have a couple of 4CP-2508s in my stock but it's really annoying that the shafts are so short that it's nearly impossible to use them with 10mm (or so front panels). If it's possible to have them made with longer shafts (5-10mm longer than the stock configuration) I'd be in for at least one and possibly two pcs. //UFN EDIT: The same question would apply to the CP601s actually
  5. Order increased to 3 pcs. (no boards) and payment sent //UFN
  6. Tentatively interested in 2 or 3 pcs. 10k. //UFN
  7. Partly. From memory, the Dynalo runs app. 300mA at +/- 15-20V, i.e. an idle dissipation of around 10-12W per channel. This is not much by class A standards (a 20W/ch speaker amp like the Pass F5 or similar dissipates from 60W/channel and up). Distributing the heat across many transistors means the Dynalo can use smaller output transistors - the MPSW/PZTA-ones are only rated for 1W dissipation each. //UFN
  8. Correct. IIRC Kevin made the SMD-layout when On-semi announced that they were discontinuing the MPSW-devices and only keep the surface-mount PZTAs. As it's the same transistors I don't believe there are any difference in performance. //UFN
  9. I think anyone would be happy to receive that - beautiful build!. Geoff, have you got a picture of the back by any chance? (no, I'm not a perv I just want to see how the transformer is mounted ) //UFN
  10. Can't access the sheet for some reason but please put me down for 1 pair of boards @sorenb //UFN
  11. Looks very impressive Kerry. Are the switchers MW IRMs? If so, I am working on something similar albeit with a more modular approach (PSU, post-reg and amp on separate boards) :-) I obviously can't see the PCB layout details, but if you are using two identical PSUs, why not stick with a pair of either the TPS7A47 or TPS7A33 regulators? That might also make it possible to use the TO-220 version of the TPS7A33 as well and then the whole board should be hand-solderable (?) //UFN
  12. Ehm, I'm not saying it's not the same guy but that isn't a serial number but just a GTIN/EAN-code . The 499 prefix indicates it's an item that's made in Japan. Could well be the same and all that, but this unfortunately doesn't prove it. //UFN
  13. Excellent. Looks worth the extra 1/2" of board to me //UFN
  14. Interesting work Kevin/Birgir (as always when something new comes out ) Can I start by making a passionate plea for enlarging the board a bit so that tombstoning the resistors isn't necessary? //UFN
  15. Nice. Although I'd have considered a red LED to match the switch cover and the Neutrik locking tab //UFN
  16. The only difference between them should be that the -95/-96 pair are rated for a higher working voltage - nothing to worry about. //UFN
  17. Yes. There's just no way to have the ground.connection on a 4-pin. Kevin's 5-pin suggestion just allows you to wire both BAL and SE out of the amp and then decide via pigtail adapters which connection you want to use /U.
  18. Closest to the ideal values probably? //UFN
  19. Well, she definitely has excellent taste If she's also tolerant of vast quantities of diy audio parts and gear then she's probably a keeper //UFN
  20. Fourth pin from the bottom? //UFN
  21. If you want something universal then I can recommend the ones from http://www.engineer.jp/index_e.html Universal for small JST/Molex connectors with 2.0mm/0.1"/0.15" pitch: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21e.html Larger model for FAST-On style connectors (cable shoes I think they are called?) etc: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa01_04e.html (the PA-01 model) Should be available on eBay etc. (unless you know anyone going to Japan where the prices are much lower ). //UFN
  22. Interested. Kerry: Nice work (as usual I should say ) //UFN
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