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UFN

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Everything posted by UFN

  1. Did you ask TKD about the shaft length? The 2511 data sheet actually says "Special order of the shaft length is possible. Please contact us for details." but of course no indication of what's required //UFN
  2. Is any customisation possible? I have a couple of 4CP-2508s in my stock but it's really annoying that the shafts are so short that it's nearly impossible to use them with 10mm (or so front panels). If it's possible to have them made with longer shafts (5-10mm longer than the stock configuration) I'd be in for at least one and possibly two pcs. //UFN EDIT: The same question would apply to the CP601s actually
  3. Order increased to 3 pcs. (no boards) and payment sent //UFN
  4. Tentatively interested in 2 or 3 pcs. 10k. //UFN
  5. Partly. From memory, the Dynalo runs app. 300mA at +/- 15-20V, i.e. an idle dissipation of around 10-12W per channel. This is not much by class A standards (a 20W/ch speaker amp like the Pass F5 or similar dissipates from 60W/channel and up). Distributing the heat across many transistors means the Dynalo can use smaller output transistors - the MPSW/PZTA-ones are only rated for 1W dissipation each. //UFN
  6. Correct. IIRC Kevin made the SMD-layout when On-semi announced that they were discontinuing the MPSW-devices and only keep the surface-mount PZTAs. As it's the same transistors I don't believe there are any difference in performance. //UFN
  7. I think anyone would be happy to receive that - beautiful build!. Geoff, have you got a picture of the back by any chance? (no, I'm not a perv I just want to see how the transformer is mounted ) //UFN
  8. Can't access the sheet for some reason but please put me down for 1 pair of boards @sorenb //UFN
  9. Looks very impressive Kerry. Are the switchers MW IRMs? If so, I am working on something similar albeit with a more modular approach (PSU, post-reg and amp on separate boards) :-) I obviously can't see the PCB layout details, but if you are using two identical PSUs, why not stick with a pair of either the TPS7A47 or TPS7A33 regulators? That might also make it possible to use the TO-220 version of the TPS7A33 as well and then the whole board should be hand-solderable (?) //UFN
  10. Ehm, I'm not saying it's not the same guy but that isn't a serial number but just a GTIN/EAN-code . The 499 prefix indicates it's an item that's made in Japan. Could well be the same and all that, but this unfortunately doesn't prove it. //UFN
  11. Excellent. Looks worth the extra 1/2" of board to me //UFN
  12. Interesting work Kevin/Birgir (as always when something new comes out ) Can I start by making a passionate plea for enlarging the board a bit so that tombstoning the resistors isn't necessary? //UFN
  13. Nice. Although I'd have considered a red LED to match the switch cover and the Neutrik locking tab //UFN
  14. The only difference between them should be that the -95/-96 pair are rated for a higher working voltage - nothing to worry about. //UFN
  15. Yes. There's just no way to have the ground.connection on a 4-pin. Kevin's 5-pin suggestion just allows you to wire both BAL and SE out of the amp and then decide via pigtail adapters which connection you want to use /U.
  16. Closest to the ideal values probably? //UFN
  17. Well, she definitely has excellent taste If she's also tolerant of vast quantities of diy audio parts and gear then she's probably a keeper //UFN
  18. Fourth pin from the bottom? //UFN
  19. If you want something universal then I can recommend the ones from http://www.engineer.jp/index_e.html Universal for small JST/Molex connectors with 2.0mm/0.1"/0.15" pitch: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21e.html Larger model for FAST-On style connectors (cable shoes I think they are called?) etc: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa01_04e.html (the PA-01 model) Should be available on eBay etc. (unless you know anyone going to Japan where the prices are much lower ). //UFN
  20. Interested. Kerry: Nice work (as usual I should say ) //UFN
  21. Ran into the same problem a while ago. and found two potential solutions: 1) There is an equivalent size (as far as I can see) with an M3-hole called the SK437 xx STS 2 from Fischer Elektronik (xx is length in mm.). However, note that only the STS 2 version has the right pin configuration for our use. Available from TME in the EU, but I haven't checked for other sources. 2) I mounted my parts with a (nylon) M3 screw, where I trimmed the head slightly with a Dremel-type tool so it would fit between the fins of the original Aavid HS, with an M3 nut on the device side. A bit of a faff to do, but seems to work OK. //UFN
  22. FWIW I personally don't use teflon SPC for power because it's too stiff (no laughing in the back please ) but (surplus) silicone-insulated copper that's pliable and easy to work with. 18-20 ga sounds right for me (app. 0.5-0.75 mm2 in metric terms). //UFN
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