Whitigir

Ugh! Hopefully they dont go under the same direction with their hd800 successor in the future

Now, when would we have the new Stax Headphones . It has been years since 009 first released. The one thing I do realize about Stax and good amp is that it is so easy to blow off my ears drums, because everything is so clean and clear and the louder the better it sound. I have to learn and restrain to preserve my ears

Ah...well.....those Vietcong, there was once a beautiful Saigon, and now it is just another 3rd world country HCM city....what a shame

Thanks Birgir, that was an awesome impression and comparison for what efforts you went through.

I see, and thank you so very much for the quick respond and the confirmations. This explains the 7812 which supplies the relay load is regulating 12.1V and then drifting to 12.65V and down to 12.16V again I fired her up again and measured the HV together with the Bias, and ignore the -16.5V as I have no load to put it on. +12: 12.01-12.1V -12: -16.75V Low Bias: 276 High Bias:: 565 +500: +496V -560: -555V -260: -242V -500: -494V I also tapped into the Relay supply for the Led indicator to avoid tapping into the regulated from the output....but I guess it doesn’t matter since the LT7912 tends to overshoot without loads ? the Led is only an indicator and not a functioning switch

I got confused by the transformer center tap and the instruction from SummR and the marking on the board (Tran’s board). It marks 30-30-CT, and so when I measured the transformer, the green and violet output was 37.82V, the violet+white is 18.8V and green+white is 17.6V. So I figured the 30-30-CT would go Violet-Green-White ? However Richard told me Violet is the Center Tap ? So I fired my PSU on with Violet-green-white, and checking LV before the HV click on, my +12 is perfect....however my -12 is shooting -16.5V ? I replaced 7912cv and still the problem persist. Anyone have any insight ? Thanks

So, I am curious as the amphenol connectors body are insulated....unless scraping off the insulation (bottom body to faceplate into the screws going to chassis) to install the braided mesh for shielding to Ground to reject EMI/RFI as the braiding and or twisting is merely enough.....what do people do for shielding purposes ? Thanks very much

I ran it from 18 and 16 before. For the carbon, I prefer 16mA for Stax 009, but on Grounded Grid I stay at 20mA. On 009 and 16mA, the bass has better warmth and the tonality has more realistic tone to it in comparison to 20mA, but other people may not agree

@tomoki have u ever found your problem? Checked 9360 ? Is the 390k burned ? Hope u found it

My bad, you have problem with RCA. It seems the best way to do it is to change sources and cables being used. Rca is SE, so shield is the same as return signals maybe try to cut the shield going into the amp, but keep the return signals for music, and keep the shield on the source end. Doing this will deflect noises toward the source chassis instead of going into the amp

Thanks so very much Mr.George ! i got the chassis today, and they are so beautiful, I just want to eat it....it is like adult version of Cookies ! Time to gets some drinks Excellent packaging !

This scares me....just went ahead and measured my SummR transformers. I didn’t get any data sheet, but only given email details which were just as Is.....I thought I would ask for confirmation to double check....but thanks Birgir, I put them through my DMM just for the hell of it. I had the funny feeling though...was hoping that the Primary winding would not be messed up....tested it too.... all turned out great! Unloaded T1 and T2 for Hv trans 601 and 598 352 and 350 94 and 93

Well, some one gave me an idea to do RBG for the indicator for LV delay, and then Hv illumination too. I have not thought of doing that, the closest is the 12V (corrected). However, I still want to try to keep the amp as pure as possible without nothing Tap into it Power run. This is the coolest idea, though, not very practical as I don’t think 1 HP (hamster Power) can do it.

Uhm, I just want the T2 to be “almost” perfect, so I don’t want to Tap into any of it Power .

Anyone has any cool idea for T2 powerswitch with LED that don’t tap into 15 and 500 V ? Or should we just go ....no LeD

Has anyone used JJ E88CC for 6DJ8 ? I rather prefer it than trying to find some vintage tubes at horrible prices

This is very true. People who wants the best would do GRLV later Is there advantage and disadvantages from using BH PSU ?

So, in the end...what was the problems that you have found ?

Thank you ! And perhap the scariest of building T2 is the combination of both, expensive parts and “fakes” sands. I have been trolling around and asked a few other members who finished their T2 on sourcing parts. I was told that 2sc3675 can be found here as well. If anyone look for them http://www.wakamatsu.co.jp/cgi-bin/psearch.cgi?page=0&word=2sc3675 2sc3381 can be found here....and I also have some from Justin as well . Justin had a few orders couple months ago too. BDent also have some but pricy http://www.classicaudioparts.com/index.php/electronic-parts/toshiba-2sc3381bl-transistor.html Classic Audio on left, Justin on the right. Using the cheap Ebay tester has seen authentic to specs so far.

Has anyone else been using 2sk216 from Renesas Audio ?

What ? T-Perfected-Over-Standard ? JK, but that is sad....we need Stax to be serious again

How come T8000 fires is slowly fading away ? We need more fuels ?

So, I found the Post from G600 about the leaked trace on the Power Supply. This is AHN2212 Relay place, isn’t it ? I don’t think I have this leak, and if this is the only problem, then I am safe to use this board ?

Damn, that is a beauty...why would anyone want to sell it ? :(. Nothing will ever be as good. But let’s get back to building a T2

Visiting the thread again! Hope the T2 is as straight forward and easy as said above ! how many people has successfully get their blue PCB boards up and working ? Beside the 1 missing trace, am I missing anything ?