Whitigir

Lol, don't worry about formula, I just looked up for directions

This amp was working for months before it would act up and finally it did arced through, soldering is one of many possibilities. However, I say it would be safer to give it more clearances, isolations, or another type of connector, or mount it in the back for more preventative. Yes, many amps are built with this connectors, and when put in at the back sides, it would be safe as there are no traces to potentially cross through the bare metals. She is banging again !! offset and balances are fine, both boards is sitting equally 250mV balances and 13V offset for Opto Servo.

Yes this look ways better for High voltage applications , but somehow they are rated 250V

Spritzer was correct, and this is really a solder mask issues. When trying to open up the mask to fix the burned trace, I noticed that it was fairly thin and very easy to remove. Then I did put in layers of acrylic for isolations. After replacing many active parts and zener, she lights up just fine. Will do the balance/offset adjustment later This Carbon was running fine for months before starting to act up, and finally blew

Then using these connectors on the front side is just a disaster waiting to happen .

Can you please link them parts

It takes some bones to get used to, I guess I should start buying some chain mails and motorcycle helmet

I think this is the clearance and the screw-in mechanism of the contact itself. By screwing it over and over the clearances to the traces on the board is smaller and smaller with the contacts bare materials and arcing happened. That charred pin is B+ into the trace to 0- after the pzta42 by this. I took off the other board and while it is looking very clean now, this potential issues would happen later down the road if screw-in and unscrewing to move wires in-out stuff. So I just put some layer of acrylic for insulations on both traces before putting on the Connector again. here is the link from his previous experiences . Ultimately, on this version of Carbon .5, to avoid the problem is to whether insulate it for more clearances or mounting the connector from the bottom side. Insulating can also be done by heat-shrink wrapping the 1/2 bare metal of the connector as shown in the picture to make sure only 1/2 front would be touching the solder pads instead of the whole bare surface.

A noob will be sharing a horror story after that arc through by thermal compound and the story where it all began. So, my Carbon encountered a problem. Left channel isn't working correctly and so O+ and O- were measured st 552V across. Trying to turn offset didn't do anything and shortly afterward the R24 got burned brown and done. I replaced the R24 together with 10m90S and Dn2540. Fired up again, and "POP", well something popped...couldn't tell if it was an arc through or something Pop (later on with further investigation, it was an arc through at 10m90s by the usage of thermal compound which was Silver polyesters, even though it was listed as nonconductive, best is ceramic compound ). I do see the smoke and traces of it around the same area of 10m90S. Took off this 10m90S and measured again...it works, but I tossed it anyways. Replaced it again, and turned on....well...."BAM" a louder pop at R16 and R15 (20 seconds), upon closer inspection, it turned out it was R16 on the same wing of 10m90S. Took a little more to try and measure stuff on board. I suspected C2M1000 was probably gone, so replaced it and it really died. Then measured carefully and ....something else appeared to be dead. Moved on toward PZTA42 on that wing and Tada....the sucker has equal 0.63V drop across equally....well, something must have killed the PZTA42 ? Not sure, replaced them and now everything measures just fine...Now, what would kill the PZTA42 all of a sudden ? I went on and also found PZTA06 to be unresponsive ?....what could have killed PZTA06 ? Not too sure...could be linked to STN9360 ? And further PZTA56 ? I have checked and it seems fine....lsk389 is also healthy. So really, what was the reason ? Anyone have any idea ? Maybe the Balance was turned to Out of whack ? Anyone has any clues ? When trimmer was off, Balanced was measuring 1700-300 and offset was 0-99.0 completely one side. Further investigation also found C2m1k fried, replaced both. B+ had some arc through, and when I took it off....horror. Now, I understand why my second power on did pop R16 and R15....this Phoenix connector upon times of screwing in and out...somehow decided to arc from B+ into the trace to O- which in turned fried many others well, on the positive side, the PSU is healthy and kicking with +458 and -458 HV, LV is 14.97 and -14.96 It seems the best practice on these Phoenix is to have some layering between the clearances. As looking back into "insanity problems" this is similar. Luckily I did not damage any PSU stuff. Will fix this with a wire for trace and a good clearance for both connectors.

I have pot ground to chassis and there is no hum. Is it hum or hiss that you are hearing ?

Happy birthday Soren!!!

Moved post to appropriate thread

I guess I would discover new things everyday....so wet thermal compound that leak through the screw hole can....Arc, just literally a little and it will. The best thermal compound was ceramic

Lol....Liquid Quantum will be the name ?

2 tubes can't outperform 4 tubes simple analogy LOL!

Not all are greedy, but seeing another one from the same origin does that, you just want to compete. it also seems that SR009 maybe the last greatest buy in price-performances from Stax . Hope this is not the case

Purk, you forgot that Stax was Bought by Edifier....and Edifier is a China company...same as HifiMan.

USB does have it standard and controlled impendace stuff. Just so as long as you are met with all qualifications about it configurations, it will work just fine

It isn't so hard to make your own USB cables. A properly made USB cables is much better than any reclocking or regenerating stuff, just my opinions

Noob question but.....Is Stax really that vulnerable to dust ?

What can beat Fat bottom girls ? Literally ?

Generally speaking, Carbon has the speed and the balances or neutrality more than GG. The GG has better fluidity and musicality. On top of that, the GG is more tubes like and the Carbon is all....Solid State. Your personal preferences will be the decisive factors. I love those J&J

Woa...that room is full of interesting things

As I went through his post...I was like...Holy...Moly!

Exactly, not to mention Type C cables has more components into the flow of music data to identify itself....it affects music in a negative ways. I don't like the idea of type C. Just use adaptor for a more affordable ways