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Case painting help


crappyjones123

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You're going to have to sand the area smooth with a series of various grit sandpaper, then repaint. Depending on the debris, I'd probably start around 120 grit, then go to 220, then finish up with 320. Feather the edges as you go.

Edited by swt61
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Could sand paper work for getting rid of all the paint or will I need any special tools?

Steve, could you clarify, "feather the edges."

I don't mind starting again. I'd like for it to be a nice clean job. I don't have a garage area but do have a little patio area behind the house and some big boxes. I was thinking for cutting out some holes in the box and putting it over the case the next time when I leave it to dry so the ducks don't have access. Anyone have better ideas on preventing dust from accidentally getting on the paint the next time?

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Thanks for the warning.

Would it be advisable to try to fix it with sandpaper, failing which go with the paint stripper or just go with the stripper directly? Is dripping a sign of using too much paint? Or staying in the area too long? Or incorrect angle of application? Or applying the coats too fast?

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

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Ouch, bad karma dude. What did you feed the ducks?

Seriously, the advice given by swt61 is good. The rules of 100 will serve you well. Start with 120 grade sandpaper followed by 220, and finish with 320 til it is smooth and clean. The chemical stripper will work as well, but, be advised, the stuff can be more trouble than it is worth. It all depends upon how thick the paint is and how long it has been allowed to dry/cure. Be sure to use in a well ventilated place. Nasty fumes.

My advice to you in the future is to fashion a paint chamber. You put the part to be painted in the chamber, apply a coat and then close it up quick. Cover it with towels until the next coat. Cheap, works well and scales even better.

A couple of pics are attached of what I used for my last several projects (both amp related and not so much). It scales well for even larger material, just get a bigger box!

Hope this helps.

BTW, friendly advice, stop feeding the ducks, nothing good will come of it. We learned that the hard way in our neighborhood.

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post-2368-0-40528200-1325733408_thumb.jp

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Yes, dripping is a sign of too much paint.

Light coats, spaced in time (according to the paint being used) works best. Start the spray off of the part and move smoothly over the part and completely off before stopping the spray. Never start or stop the spray on the part itself. Keep your speed across the part as well as the paint flow as consistent as possible. Alternate spray patterns in a consistent manner. Work parallel and then perpendicular to the part while ensuring you stop and start off the part itself.

Take your time. Most sprays are best applied using a very light coat, wait about 1/2 an hour or so and then apply another light coat. Then stop. Allow those coats dry (as long as overnight depending upon the paint) and repeat until you get the depth of color desired. Again, the choice of paint has a lot to do with it, so, check the instructions with the paint. They tend to be spot on in terms of application instructions.

As far as drips and runs go, over time, you will learn how much you can get away with before accumulating too much paint. Be advised, each coat will require less paint and increases the chances for drips and runs. The amount of spray will decrease (or should decrease) with each successive coat.

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I think jake's got it right: many, many very light coats. Also, if you can stand the piece you are painting slightly upright (instead of flat) it can help the paint cure better.

Awesomely enough a fucking duck put dirt and shit all over it.

I'm sorry, crappy, but that's comedy gold writing right there. Edited by bhjazz
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Got some paint striped as suggested. The thing worked like a charm. Got most of the paint off in one try save for some blotches but they were small enough to where I didn't care. I make a paint chamber as jake suggested by setting a smaller box inside a bigger box making a platform. If this doesn't work as hoped for I'm going to hang up the the case using some string. Applied just a single coat this time. Pray for me.

Good to have you here jake. Some impressive work over on the other site.

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So, I would avoid the string/hanging concept if possible. Far too much potential for movement. You want a solid, firm foundation for the part to be painted.

The goal will be to elevate the piece high enough to get a clean shot with the spray can, yet, still allow you to close the box to minimize the effects of random dust. Since I have the lid off anyway, the pics enclosed below are a simulation of what I mean. In this way, you have complete access to the piece to be painted while not allowing any one edge to be obscured or obstructed from a clean shot.

I have to assume, since you went to Home Depot for supplies that you are using Rustoleum spray. My weapon of choice. wink.png With that paint, you can apply a light coat and re-coat in about 30 to 45 minutes with another coat. Don't go too much longer, otherwise, wait a day (or at least overnight) and lightly (and I mean lightly) sand and spay another coat. This is always your fall back position. Let it dry, lightly sand with no less than 220 (320 might be better) and re-coat until the texture and depth of color is what you are looking for. This is true regardless of color. This is the beauty of DIY, just take your time and do it as many times as it takes until you are happy with the results. You cannot rush paint. It takes as long as it takes. If you mess up or or are unhappy with the results, sand/strip it off and start again.

Good luck to you! Looking forward to the end the results.

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post-2368-0-01832900-1325829090_thumb.jp

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I have something similar set up now. I do see the benefits of having a much bigger box. Will see what I can find. I applied a thin coat last evening. Waiting until today to see how well the dust prevention system worked. Mom suggested covering the top of the box with a wet towel to catch the dust in the air and to prevent random crap from the edges of the flaps rubbing together and falling in. Thoughts? You are a few hours north of me. How long does it take for the paint to dry completely? Also how does one tell without screwing up the paint whether it is dry for it looks so to the untrained eye even if it isn't?

Thanks :)

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The towel is a good idea. I always use a towel to cover the top seam.

Sounds like you need to prep you box a bit more. Either tape or paint the top edges to prevent them from rubbing and creating dust particles. Be aware though, there are limits to what a simple box can control. You will never get a completely dust free environment using a box. The goal here is to minimize the effects.

As for dry time, the can is pretty spot on save for the humidity issues in FL. This time of the year, that is not a big issue. During the summer, you have to add to the dry time. Typically, for this time of year, dry time is 2 to 4 hours for dry to touch with 5 to 10 for dry to handle. I just usually wait overnight.

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