June 27, 201115 yr I used the IRC thin film with .1% tolerance. Here's the actual values and part numbers. RP7 15 PFC-W1206R-03-15R0-B RP6 619 PFC-W1206LF-03-6190-B RP5 4530 PFC-W1206LF-03-4531-B RP4 15800 PFC-W1206LF-03-1582-B RP3 41200 PFC-W1206LF-03-4222-B RP2 93100 PFC-W1206LF-03-9312-B RP1 196000 PFC-W1206LF-03-2003-B RP0 402000 PFC-W1206LF-03-4023-B RS0 1330 PFC-W1206LF-03-1331-B RS1 2610 PFC-W1206LF-03-2611-B RS2 4910 PFC-W1206LF-03-4991-B RS3 8870 PFC-W1206LF-03-8661-B RS4 14300 PFC-W1206LF-03-1372-B RS5 20000 PFC-W1206LF-03-2002-B RS6 23200 PFC-W1206LF-03-2322-B RS7 23700 PFC-W1206LF-03-2372-B RT 24300 PFC-W1206LF-03-2432-B
June 27, 201115 yr Cool! Are you still able to put me in for 2 bare boards and relays in addition to my two completed boards?
June 27, 201115 yr I can do the extra boards. I could also do extra assemblies, but I don't have extra relays only.
June 27, 201115 yr I can do the extra boards. I could also do extra assemblies, but I don't have extra relays only. Ok, I'll take 2 extra boards only then. These will go to storage in case I have some use in the future. Please let me know how much for the extra 2 boards. Is the shipping cost of the 2 assembled boards enough to include these?
June 28, 201115 yr Great news... I've completed testing on the board. I checked both relay by relay switching and did a listening test using a rotary encoder. Everything was just fine The rest of the boards were put in for manufacturing and once they are back, we can start the assembly process as well. I'll keep everyone posted as we go.
June 28, 201115 yr Perfect! Would you mind telling me how you setup the power supply? Did you have a separate transformer for each 3V, 5V and 12V supply, or do they all tap into a 12V transformer?
June 28, 201115 yr I'm using an Arduino Uno board. I'm taking the 5V power straight off of the USB port. The board has an on board 3.3V regulator as well as a 3.3V output. I supplied the 12V directly to the board making sure that I tied the digital grounds together (not the analog ground). Here's a quick picture of my down and dirty setup. Edited June 28, 201115 yr by Kerry
June 28, 201115 yr Author The 3.3V on the attenuator board is either 3.3V or 5V to match the different cpu drive voltages. In most cases you can use 5V and still drive it with a 3.3V cpu.
June 28, 201115 yr Sounds good. One other question though, what voltage does the 4D system LCD run on?
June 29, 201115 yr Author 4D is a 3.3 volt system, but is also 5 volt pullup tolerant. the murata 3.3 volt regulator is a single piece 12v or 5v to 3.3v converter for $4.
June 29, 201115 yr Author yep, thats the part. its on the dynahipower2 board. Absolutely dead quiet in terms of any kind of noise. Switches internally at 500khz. At 1.5 amps of output current, it should be enough to run just about anything you would need to control relays etc. Won't run an I5 at 3ghz
July 5, 201114 yr Author dynahipower2 is going to be the supply for the preamp, trimmed to +/-24V. BIG PROBLEM, no 4PDT relays anymore. Going to have to change that board quite a bit.
July 27, 201114 yr Great news. The boards / assemblies have been shipped and I expect to have them tomorrow.
July 27, 201114 yr Great news. The boards / assemblies have been shipped and I expect to have them tomorrow. w00t! hope you post pics
July 29, 201114 yr Got home too late from work to pick up the package. They are in and I will pick it up tomorrow AM.
July 29, 201114 yr Excellent! It'll be the first (non-commercial) pcb I have with more than 4 layers =D
July 29, 201114 yr Wow... That's a lot of boards Initial visual inspection looks pretty good. I'm going to say a prayer that they all work. I've got some extra parts if not. I'll have a chance to test some later this evening. I'll post some results as well.
July 29, 201114 yr That is a big stack of boards. I'm already thinking I should have bought an extra pair... =)
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