Les_Garten
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Posts posted by Les_Garten
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Here's where I got my Visor stuff. Good pricing on most of the stuff. I did buy the Visor itself from a Plce on Amazon w/Free shipping for $29. But the OptiLoupes x2 and the Quasar Light System I got here.
Quasar LS Lighting System for Optivisor: LEDs Surround Optivisor Lens Plate
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I often use my panavise in conjunction with a helping hands. And I've actually found it "handy" to have two sets of helping hands that are different sizes.
Heh! One can never have too much help!
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Yep...a Panavise Jr is very handy for cables. I wish the jaws were made of teflon or some other heat resistant material. I've managed some melting by getting too close with the iron.
I've used my Panavise, but also used a part of one of the helping hands to hold the wire.
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My wife and her jewelry-designing friends all swear by the Optivisor.
Personally, I have one of those desk lamp magnifier (with the fluorescent ring) and a Panavise with a couple different jaws.
Thanx! I doing this setup here.
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My wife and her jewelry-designing friends all swear by the Optivisor.
Personally, I have one of those desk lamp magnifier (with the fluorescent ring) and a Panavise with a couple different jaws.
Panavise is great for boards, but diffcicult for things like cable ends for me. Like terminating a connector with 24 GA wire stuff. The hands help with that. Those links I posted are giving me ideas for building then "proper" set of hands. Might even add a beer holder!
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Thanx! Thos look pretty good quality and the lenses are replaceable.
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OK, I'll start out. Just found these two neat links.
Third Hand++: A multi-use helping hand for electronics and other delicate work.
Devon Jones’ Helping Hands NYC Resistor Electronics, Hacking, Classes, and Workspace.
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I have a pair of "Cheap" helping hands with magnifier. These things you have to have but are never quite right. I also have a Panavise that I use them in conjunction with.
They end up breaking and the hinges and clamps for the clips are dodgy at best.
Are there any "Good" or "excellent" ones out there? I have to have the magnifier. I can't pay $300 for a set, but I would be willing to invest more than the $5.95 you pay now to get junk.
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Laser-etched cake? Laser-etched front panel? Pet branding?
Don't forget Laser Etched Retina...
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Great. That is exactly as it should have been mounted from the start. I hope you enjoy them!
-Alex-
Kudos for offering to Fix them!
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All Stax tube amps (post 1980's) have a 30 second delay so you will never hear any sound with cold tubes.
I'm talking about for some time after till they get real hot and quit expanding. Mainly tubes that may be more prone to microphincs. I've heard little tinks for 10 minutes or so.
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I hear this on tube amps when they are cold and warming up. Were the tubes cold by chance?
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that's not bad. Is that through Fluke? I want to ask them about the insane battery drain on my meter, perhaps they'd look it over while it is in?
Hey,
That was a company in S.FL I found looking for Florida Calibration services. They do it onsite, which is apparently a big business, that is, the calibration business. These guys who do this are certified Metrologists or something such. If they already have it, you would want to check on a quote maybe. I think they charged about $100 extra for my meter originally if I bought it Calibrated. Which I did not originally.
Ciao
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Buy some tight tolerance resistors, measure the group, judge for yourself. Better yet, buy some sets in wildly separated values, test them all.
That's kinda where I was going. I also have a third NEW meter somewhere that I can use for trending purposes. It's real cheap, slightly better than a harbor freight... maybe...
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I guess my distilled down question is how much does a good meter drift over time in anybody's experience. Mine has been babied and not used much to be honest. I guess it has spent some time out in the garage though.
Cost of Recal is $48 + Shipping. Not much, but still about $50 I could use for something more tangible.
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What are you doing that actually requires calibration? I would think for most DIY work, all that you really would need is repeatable results, as opposed to absolute values being exactly on.
Well that's what I'm trying to figure out. Lets say I built a B-22. During any troubleshooting there are test points, that's the extent of what I would do. I have an "old" DMM and was just wondering if anybody ever sent them back to recal, and if there is really a need for it.
My plan is to proof the two DMMs against each other and if they are about the same, I'll determine no need.
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I also don't think it's fair to invoke -=her=- just yet so let's avoid hyperbole for a little while longer.
You're probably right there. Mikahl-SP and -=G=- designators should be withheld for the most egregious of circumstances.
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Hi,
I think I know the answer to this but I'll throw it out anyhow.
I have some DMMs and would like to know about what you guys do with respect to calibrations.
So I'll use 2 of my DMMs as an example. Fluke 87 and NEW VC99.
I put them both in an electrical outlet at the same time and they both show the same V. The Fluke I bought around '96, the VC99 is about a month old.
My plan is to measure some caps, resistors, etc and see how much they agree. So far the voltages measure the same. I'm not sure what it tells me if they disagree, but I thought I would just play around with a NEW meter and my Ol' Fluke.
I may just send off the Fluke and get it calibrated, but I don't really want to just chuck cash away either.
What do you guys do? Has anybody done a recalibration?
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To be fair, that's an APS cable I sent him to install but I guess he could have shortened the lead up to where the heatshrink ends. But to me its a minor no-no. I'm just glad I got the headphones, unlike my ugly experiences with a certain SPA-hole.
Here's how I would look at this.
Hypothetical:
You put an ad in the FS forum asking for a service installing a High End cable on your UBER expensive headphones.
I respond saying I'll do it, I know what I'm doing.
I send you the above job performance.
Should I expect Good Feedback or Bad Feedback for that job that needs to be done over?
Don't make excuses for him, this is inline with the rest of the performance exhibited with this product. I don't see how anyone wouldn't be questioning the Longevity of the doping, amongst other seemingly obvious questions.
-=G-Mania=- level work being done here.
p.s. don't take this personal, but the fact that you're not really pissed about that makes any assessment of the SQ suspect at least to me.
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Nate,
since this thread got bumped. Did you get the two deck pot to work as a Balanced shunt vol control? You never updated whether you ironed it out or not.
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NG,
Autoformers is a newb concept to me. I read up a little on a number of sites and graps the concept as espoused here:
Zero Autoformers, Impedance Multiplying Transformers [English]
The commercial implementations for speakers is mega expensive!
However, not sure how you have those Transfos, switch jacks etc in you box wired.
Do you have a drawing, like for Autoformer Dummies?
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Yeah, well, I doubt there is anything that will work with every amp. But, you can probably come close. Pretty much any off the shelf amp can drive a 300 ohm headphone. So, with a 300:32 step down and you can probably get decent results.
How inexpensive could that be done?
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Yup the heater feed. It makes sense to twist all AC wires to minimize hum and that setup is just asking for trouble.
It does look like a Freakin' Antenna Array in there doesn't it!
The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Kinda sensitive aint'cha...