Tachikoma

I've never done it before But since Spritzer has... I'll assume that it is possible.

Mmmm, its unlikely that its the tubes, I've heard the same symptoms on most of my vintage staxen (non-lambda, though). Reseal was a poor choice of words, reassemble more like =P I use a vacuum cleaner (very, very carefully and with the membrane taken out.) to get the dust out of mine... but a weak USB vacuum should do the trick. You can also gently rub the membrane with some PVC wrap, just in case the dust is stuck onto the membrane.

Sounds like dust. You're going to have to get your hands dirty and get inside the drivers, get the dust out and re-seal it. There might also be a leak in the protective membrane... I don't think I can recommend using PVC wrap to replace it in your case, since it kinda screws up the coupling of the driver to the enclosure, with the lambdas.

Well... I have 2 SRM-717s. <__< The 717 works great with the SR-5 pro, incidentally.

I DIY'ed them with the SR-5NB as the base, swapped in GP drivers and cut a 5m 5 pin extension cord in half for the cable. The original drivers and cable were broken, so I had a good excuse to go ahead with that madness They're much easier to build than the SR-X pro, you don't have to worry about getting the glue off the original drivers without breaking something, or find a good glue that keeps the drivers coupled firmly to the enclosure. I ranked my headphones according to how much I like them, and I like them about as much as I like the O2. The two of them compliment each other really well; the SR-5 pro is really forward but still retains a wide soundstage, and are very exciting to listen to (without lacking too much in terms of detail or smoothness) while the O2 is laidback, yet has detail and refinement in the boatload. Every time I switch between the two of them, the next headphone always seems to sound better than the last

SR-5 pro, O2 (on shot pads) Lambda Sig, Lambda Pro Gamma Pro, SR-X IM716 (I think I've lost it on a trip though...) KSC-75

Mmm, since it will be a while before I can afford to order new pads, do DIY fixes work? Say, stuffing the pads with some tissue paper?

The O2 can sound pretty darn un-impressive on a short listen. It takes a while for them to grow on you, and they're still in the process of doing that to me In the meantime, the SR-5 pros are staying put... To be fair, the pads on my O2 are utterly shot.

He kinda looks like me. Well, me + 100 pounds anyway.

And now for the threadly Stax recommendation: Stax SR-50 - Closed electret headphones. if they show up on ebay you should be able to get them for $100 or so. Carl loves them, but he did say they had horrible comfort.

How bad is the software emulation compared to the PS2-native hardware?

Happy Birthday

I wonder if he's regretting that right now

Sure, why not? I've considered DIY-ing my own cables, but I think I broke the soldering iron on my first try <___< The audioquest columbias on ebay look mighty tempting, $238 for an XLR pair with the 72V DBS. Used, though.

That... just can't be for real. (EL34s for a CDP output stage? o_O) Maybe its an April fools joke they forgot to remove. Oh wait, it is real . Crazy germans

Would this design have anywhere near enough juice for the O2?

Actually, they look kinda cool to me Can I ask you to build an enclosure for my HE60 drivers? XD

More questions about questions (and maybe an answer): 1) Which icky foam? The one inside the Lambda Pros, or the foam from the earpads? 2) If you want to open up the headphones, and if the LP is like my Nova Sig, the screws are at the corners, just pry the earpads a little to get to them. As for taking the earpads off, well, you'll just have to use double-sided tape if you lose too much "stick" after removing them =P 3) No comment.

Well, its not like you have anything to lose if the glue's already failed. Speaking of bluetack mods, I put small pieces of bluetack on the three contact points at the back of the SR-5 which "supports" the drivers, and it helped to damp the SR-5's siblance very nicely. I still have to experiment a bit more though, my right channel sounds a little "dead" compared to the left after the mod.

Its not like that sort of thing is irreversible though... as long as you're brave enough

The charge actually helps to repel dust, though, since most dust is positively charged.

Its just hiss in the outputs, caused by shipping damage. Getting it repaired will cost a lot more than the amp <.<

By the end of next month, this: http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/head3.htm ... I hope. If it still isn't ready by then, I'll have to stick to my T1, and perhaps the SRD-7mk2 (with only a somewhat faulty Pioneer SA-6200 behind it.)

Only if the USD trades on par with the RM

I've always been on team budget stax since my first >$100 headphone purchase I keep telling myself that I don't have nearly enough amplification to justify dropping moolah on an O2, and I usually listen... until a pair appeared on YJ for 85000 yen BIN this morning :x