Tachikoma

Meh. *scraps PCB-bypass mod and high-end tubed speaker amp plans* This also means that the PCB-bypass mod will only work with certain solid state amps, doesn't it? If the t-amp didn't like 120 ohm loads I can only imagine what a 100k (or more?) ohm load would do to it...

I've done some reading today about output tube impedance loads and I'm wondering now, if we directly wired a tube amp's outputs to a stax transformer box's transformers, wouldn't the output tubes "see" a much higher load impedance than what they were intended for and do all kinds of nasty things like arcing and killing output transformers?

You mean the way the SR-5 drivers turned bad? I figured that it might have something to do with me fiddling around with them too much >< I'm thinking about having the faulty drivers re-built someday, maybe swapping out the thin films that connect the stators, resoldering all of the connections, etc. The stators should still be alligned, so there might be hope yet in their ressurection. I've emailed the asian distributor, but honestly I really like the idea of having a one of a kind enclosure for my HE60s

The small hole resulted in a very noticeable channel imbalance Good thing I had a spare pair of membranes from the faulty SR-5 drivers. Well, the place where I got the drivers from said they couldn't order it from Sennheiser, so I assumed that the enclosure pieces aren't available anymore. At least I won't need the cable since I have an extra 2.5M of stax extension cable left. Ok, thanks anyway

I'm using the SR-5NB's membranes in the transplanted gamma drivers, because I accidentally poked a small hole in one of the GP's membranes <___< Ummm I need a built-from-scratch HE60 enclosure, how much would a job like that cost me?

Is that the only reason you recommended against the NE-2s in the old head-fi thread? *thought it'd have something to do with noise issues and whatnot* I'm still waiting for my BH PSU PCB from justin to get started with the DC tube amp, meh.

what the fettucini o_O My $500 setup would consist of: SR-5NB + SRD-7mk2: $300 M-audio SuperDAC: $120 Pioneer SA-6200: $60 My SR-5NB is a long way off "stock" though - it has a wide PC-OCC cable and Gamma Pro drivers (with the original 2um membrane), and it sounds awesome out of just about anything <3

Have you tried putting omega 2 pads on them? I think the deeper pads well help alleviate some of the comfort problems with the SR-5

Australian buyers don't usually need to underdeclare when buying from overseas, since their customs leave anything under AUD$1000 well alone =P When people don't under-declare when shipping to Malaysia, it is very likely that I'll end up needing to bribe the customs officer in charge (well I haven't, but most do apparently) to not have to pay 30-40% of the declared value in tax.

What kind of criteria is required for converting a speaker-based tube amp into an electrostat amp? I'd love to try this with a 45 or 2A3 amp.

Are the T1Ws really identical to the T1 except for the inputs?

IRC. Can't remember the network/channel name anymore though.

*learns lesson* Posting about ebay auctions on a headphone forum is always a bad idea On the other hand, now I know _the_ ebay ID I should avoid getting into bidding wars with when bidding for stax items

There is one on ebay now, but it comes with a gamma pro and has a BIN at $400. Your deal with Carl fell through in the end, I presume? I've always assumed that the black powder on the headpad was from the dye stax used on it, and soaking the headband assembly seems to get rid of it easily enough.

Heh, I messed up with the GPs, but Scotch permanent double-sided tape works quite well as a replacement. I scrapped the old glue off with my fingernails

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/member.php?u=5065 Lol.

Stax headphones are worthless for rock/trance

Found out that the drive was turned off in bios, turning it back on fixed it

Urm, one question, shouldn't balanced operation render the headphones even less suceptible to EMI/RF interference? I'm planning to go unshielded, but with 6 twists per foot or something like that.

I've already reinstalled the DVD drive, followed the instructions from this site http://sniptools.com/tipstricks/getting-back-to-dma-mode-in-windows-xp and followed microsoft's recommendation (set drive options to "PIO only", then back to "DMA if available" again), repeatedly. and its still stuck in PIO mode :< HELP

I am using solid core Do copper conductors better than 7N occ copper exist? >_< urm.... *ignorant* how do you do that?

awesome. something that isn't entirely impossible to build with my bare hands would be better though

I'm going to recable a pair of K340s to 4 pin XLR soon, using OCC copper , so which cable layout do you guys think I should use? Flat/twisted/leave the strands hanging in the air? I _was_ thinking flat, stax cable like flat, but from what I've read the flat cable configuration would have high capacitance, which contradicts stax's "low capacitance" claim. I'm not sure which version of the K340 I got though, the treble's definitely there while the bass isn't, but I'm currently driving them out of a cmoy

Where's the option for "never"?

Twitchy MX1000 eh, I had the same problems with mine. The twitch went away after I changed the USB receiver.