kevin gilmore

It is possible that current production 2sk216 parts don't have the protection zener built in... That could explain it. Not true, pin 9 is connected to ground on the component side of the board. Measure with an ohmmeter and you will see. Also the center shield pin on the socket is connected to ground.

12/4 works for me. Subject to less than 4 inches of snow on the ground. Not going to bring any hardware. I think that bottle of tequilla looks very interesting. But i'll have a list of 4 just in case something isn't in stock when i get there. I think 3 bottles total should smash everyone Would not like to take half of it home like last time.

The amp board is 11.950 x 16.000 The power supply board is 11.950 x 10.000 but the inside of the chassis should be exactly 12.00 inches wide. allows for .025 per side for irregularities due to warping of the heatsinks.

Well the TEC at the time cost me $4500. Completely stainless steel guaranteed not to rust. They lied. The only way to send it back to the factory was to take it apart, because no standard shipping company would have taken it in one piece. And all the screws and a lot of the stainless was rusted pretty bad, so there was no way to take it apart. Went into the trash can. Only some of the parts had the 20 year warranty, so it would have likely come back with a $2k bill. Never again.

I never did the parts kits. Never will either, not enough time. All current chassis are spoken for. There is actually one extra chassis, but no board set to go with it. I just don't see me doing another chassis run. Some other fool would have to take that on.

Before i had the weber, i had a TEC. Way expensive. Was supposed to last 20 years. Firebox and ceramics cracked after 9 years, then i found out that they can't sell replacement parts because the ceramics were wrapped with an asbestos like compound and then inserted into the firebox. So even though it had a 20 year warranty i would have had to send the thing back somehow to the factory. That was not going to happen. Moral of the story, nothing lasts forever. If you don't run the thing at 11, it should last 10 to 15 years. But it is made of clay/ceramic/who knows what. And if you drop it, or if it falls over due to wind (kind of hard to do as its pretty damm heavy) it might break.

My boss has one of these things, (the bigest size one) and absolutely loves the thing. I've had some food from it, and it sure is tasty. It can do things my gas fed weber cannot do.

For those interested here are the prices. It really only makes sense if i do another 20 piece board run. power supply board quantity 5 $157 each quantity 10 $97 each quantity 20 $61 each amp board quantity 5 $242 each quantity 10 $166 each quantity 20 $102 each so prices did go up ever so slightly due to increase in sales tax. which makes a set of boards quantity 5 $399 quantity 10 $263 quantity 20 $163

I like some of those pics. maybe an armagnac this time. The reason for binnys is that there is a store less than a mile from my house I like the 70 year old stuff too, but that is going to have to be for a very special occasion

power supply fix pictures courtesy of Inu http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/noise%20fix1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/noise%20fix2.jpg But if you don't want to cut the land, you can put the ref chip up on a pair of sockets with a resistor in the middle. Picture on that later.

I should have said that the booze has to be at least 80 proof. And something interesting.

And now i get from another distributor that the 2sa1968LS has been discontinued and i have to order from them NOW... This is getting real old real fast. Glad the board is designed for both. Was going to modify the power supply board for the 2sa1968ls because justin likes the led's... But...

It may be a plastic package on that part, but its not insulated, collector is on the bottom.

Consider arm broken. Still have lots of booze left... But i'm in the mood for something fancy too. Someone go to the binny's website and find something in the $400 to $500 range that is in stock. (a single bottle of something) Then let me know what to buy. Since all of the toys on my to buy list are still vaporware, i have to spend some money on something.

There is a reasonable distributor, i think in england that ships worldwide and has reasonable prices. Don't remember which one, its buried in the T2 thread somewhere.

updated bom. also this which is real sweet, but needs a slight bit more work and then some testing. The only shuntregulator i know of that won't blow up without a load. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/shuntregulator.pdf

looks like about $350 in parts with the transformer. plus the circuit boards much better version of the bom, still missing the other parts of the thermal washers and part numbers for those http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvbomas.xlsx you would need to add input connectors and a pot. If someone wants to do a group buy on all the transistors, and someplace else other than the usual place, i'm sure we can get the price down somewhat.

I want to see pictures of the insides first. I use OCXO's all the time, they are a $500 part. At least the good ones are that much. I don't see how you can put a $500 part inside a $3500 retail priced unit. Poorly done non PID temperature control would be just as bad as no temperature control whatsoever. Still, kind of silly as the only thing it does is stabilize at a specific frequency, and unless the thing is actually powered on all the time, it would do more harm than good. TCXO's are a much better idea, and cheaper and stabilize quicker. Analog volume control is definitely the right way to do this.

Had not thought about that. Will have to look into it.

but then how do you prevent the coconut shell from touching the speaker... can't allow the vibrations from the speaker to influence the capacitor. Actually patrick might have a product for that one.

I have finally figured out the discrepancy in my spice simulator on the power supply vs ltspice. Although they still don't entirely agree. The explanation would take 3 or 4 pages, so i'll omit that. Back to the 20 year old software.

Original design can run on +/-600 volts and absolutely requires T2 style heatsinking. Which puts the chassis at about triple the cost of the rest of the parts combined. Maybe more. I don't think that is what people want. This is supposed to be an everyman kind of thing. If you want nuts, go and build a T2. Or you have to be someone like luvdunhill or n_maher with the equipment at home to do the chassis. Or even kerry which manages to do that kind of stuff on a balcony overlooking central park. Even i don't do chassis like that at home and i have all the right machine tools. Getting the heatsink interface right pretty much requires a NC machine. Or a whole bunch of patience. I'm working on yet a third power supply design. Shunt regulator. Sure, why not. Except my version does not blow up without a load, it uses the ixys parts as the current source, and i measure the current thru the shunt, and if its too much, i shut down the amount the current source supplies. Sort of the best of both worlds.

There is also an alternative power supply board, cheaper than the T2 style, its pretty much identical to the BH power supply board, at 450 or 500 volts. No reference, opamp or 2sc3675 needed, and 2 less heatsinks. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvps2.jpg option for 2nd pass fet and heatsink for better heat spreading. amp schematic updated. I've tried having someone else order the boards. But if i pay for them even if they ship out of state, they still charge me tax. For boards i buy for nwu with the tax exempt number, i still have to go over it with them every single time. A real pain. But they are the best boards i have ever seen.

The resistor may not be necessary as the output impedance of the reference is about 1k. In which case the cap would need to be 1uf. I have not tried this. Also instead of cutting a trace, you can put the reference up on a pair of sockets stacked together with the resistor in the middle. Picture on this at some point.

exactly the same crap as walker links High Definition Links but cheaper. Nothing but a capacitor. Takes a bit off the top. Causes instability in some high slew rate amplifiers.