kevin gilmore

The problem with internet postage (i have a suitable printer) especially with stuff going outside the country which all 4 of these did, is all the customs forms, and the weight. I know my scale is accurate, as it matches the one at work, and the package really is 39.5 lbs. But i got lucky and got the really messed up scale at usps which weighed the packages at 33 and 35 lbs (they are absolutely identical in contents) and therefore saved a few bucks. So now in total (not counting gas) but counting everything else including bubbles and the packaging for the boards, i'm down to a loss of a little less than $8. Fedex seems to be in the other direction. Their scale always weighs over the real weight. I wonder if that is deliberate. At least fedex inside the usa is going to be only about $40 instead of the package to Australia which was $235. And fedex international is way out of line price wise. Birgirs package was even higher priced.

So i got cussed out by this guy who needed at least 10 more feet from my open door to pass me with his 10 year old van, throwing me the finger et all. In the designated loading/unloading area. I did take my persuader out of the trunk, but decided not to go after him. At 40 lbs per package, the car definitely did not handle right (2 in the trunk, 2 in the right passenger seat) or at least not what i was used to.

4 chassis shipped. Only 45 minutes for the wonderful united states postal service to do 4 packages. (all of which were international) you would think that being able to type would be a requisite for the job... I'm going to make a few more tops and bottoms (have everything else) and then the next batch goes off for polishing and finishing. Hopefully the anodizer can actually count this time. Birgir should have his knobs soon

4 chassis packed up and will ship today. tracking numbers in a few hours. The knobs are less than acceptable, and i will be replacing them at my cost. Will be drilling and tapping the small end to put a screw in it for the anodizing. Then no dings on the face.

Someone just asked again. the 2sc3381-BL's work just fine. That is what i'm using.

If you can tolerate the size, what you want is a pair of Belle Klipsh, or the all horn Bozaks. Both of which are on the kind of large size. If you don't have a perfectly symetrical room, then khorns are not going to work. (and 2 perfect corners)

Just got the call that the anodizing is done. I could force the issue and get it today but i think its best to wait for the guy to deliver monday morning. So i will be shipping the stuff on monday and tuesday. Unless there is a hurricane, or 24 inches of snow.

i was thinking REALLY SLOW BOAT. As in one guy in a rowboat. what do 1000 of those weigh... about 300 lbs??

Yep, taper on both ends. I have one of those on my emco... Never has come apart. You might consider a very thin coating of regular super glue... (not the void filling stuff) If you are never going to need to take it apart...

won't fit. You would have to drill the thing out. Given the kind of plastic its made from it will likely break.

I use a old sound technology unit. You adjust the signal generator to make the output come out to 0 db. So the position of the volume control is meaningless. You could set the volume knob at 50% and then have to turn up the generator to get back to 0 db. Correctly done, everything has to be relative to the main peak. This seems to be where many people generate unrealisticly low thd numbers from their RMAA tests. Without a carefully built attenuator, you cannot possibly measure an electrostatic amp.

have it shipped REALLY SLOW boat.

master machinist says that one of the two pieces is likely machined wrong. So get another arbor and if it falls out, then take the drill press back and get it replaced because there is nothing you would be able to do about it. No grease or lubrication unless there is some kind of rust problem. Warning, DANGEROUS, wear safety goggles. bolt down a vice to the table of the drill press. bolt it down very good. make sure the table is very tight. put the arbor in the vice. Turn on the power and slowly move the drill head to the arbor. Go REAL SLOW. When it finally grabs, turn it off quick.

I did the numbers, and if any of you really want the titanium knobs, i can do some. They will be $200 each. It would be about 6 to 8 weeks before i have the time to do them.

i'll talk to my master machinist tomorrow to make sure, but i think a light layer of oil is actually required. Not too many people have access to liquid N2... The prussian blue or equivalent is also a good idea, because if you see some really high spots then no amount of freezing or pounding is going to work.

One of the two surfaces i damaged, or has something stuck to it. Normally a little light oil on both surfaces, wipe dry and insert. A light tap should hold it in forever.

I'll be closely watching for that. I do have examples of the same black over the last 6 months and i can't tell the difference. At least its a bottom panel which would never be visible anyway.

.1% on the power supply is more than sufficient, but hey go for the better part. In other news the anodizer found the 4 missing panels. That he never anodized...

I'm in for 100

Well the chassis are drilled for a #10 Which is .1900. So a M8 definitely will not fit (roughly .250). Should be easy to drill out the holes. And for the front two feet on the power supply only, you have to cut the shaft to the size of the nut otherwise it would hit the circuit board.

Replacement parts delivered to anodizer. Going to have some high power liquid refreshment and then measure my BP.

For whatever reason the really good polishers don't do anodizing, and vice versa. This all has to be local, and both of these companies are real good at what they do. Very different machining and processes. Really don't want to go into the anodizing company ever again. Boiling vats of boric acid. Lots of chemicals that just can't possibly be good for you. The fihisher for the flat parts has this absolutely huge sanding/buffing thing. Really neat, and something else i would rather not mess with. The heatsinks are polished by hand. Hopefully another 10 days or less to anodize the bottom panels. I think people should wait until its done, and ship in one box. But for me personally i would take it in two shipments just to get working on it that much quicker. Then soon, like next week i will ship the next batch for polishing and finishing.

I have a receipt from the anodizer for accepting 16 heatsinks and 16 tops/bottoms and 16 fronts/backs So he will be paying for the missing stuff. Or he has to find the stuff. I really don't care. justin might have some more of the heatsink. Otherwise i have just enough heatsinks to match the fronts and backs. If justin does another batch of heatsink there will be plenty more. This time i will order extra. If people want me to ship what i have now, i can do that, the amp works fine without its bottom. That way you can start assembling now. All you need to do assembly is the fronts/backs,heatsinks and power supply bottom.

Found the four heatsinks in someone elses delivery... Can't find the 4 amp bottoms yet, so 4 more will be at the anodizer later today... You would think it would be simple enough to keep order A seperate from order B... Especially when they were different colors... And yes, all of my stuff is the same color.

Now i'm downright hostile. No amp bottoms... Will ship out 4 more bottoms and 4 more heatsinks today. Inu and Birgir parts will ship today.