sbelyo

I'm definitely game to try. I'll try heat at first. As far as the solvent goes I have some grado plastic I can test it on. Always loved mega man

Is it possible to remove a grado driver and leave the cup intact? I want to remove some drivers from their plastic housings without cutting up the housing. I watched the grado assembly video on their site and they just pop in the front and are secured with a little CA I'm guessing. My though was to cut out as much of the driver as I could, then soak it face down in acetone. What do you think?

Thanks, they look kinda dense. That's a great pic by the way, how did that actually sound?

Has anyone tried the Grado replacement pads from ebay? The ones that ship from China with the hole in the center.

I'm sure it's my ears lying. I probably should have payed more attention. 10K was the recomended value so I'll leave it at that based on what nikongod says. I think maybe I should lower the gain if the volume gets too high too fast correct?

My original Dynahi built in 2008 is still going strong and sounds just a good as they day I finished it. I replaced the 50K volume pot with a 10K as it should've been years ago. I believe KG said 50 was to high. With the 10K the amp sounds perfect but I think I've lost the use of the full range of the volume control. I only use the first 25% now where I used to use up to 50% or more with the 50K. Do you think it would be ok to switch to a 25K volume pot?

Does it slip when you turn it? I'm using it to turn the shaft of a volume control and goldpoint switch. The knob will be collet mount and the shaft coupler is a clamping style

Bingo, thats the one

yeah, those might work

Does McMaster-Carr stock something like this panel bushing for 1/4" shafts http://www.abbatron.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=119&osCsid=11d56dd2c9392cf240348216c5dfa10a&x=3&y=5

I figured 1/4 watt would be fine

I've decided to assemble a stepped attenuator for my Dynahi. Can I use 1/4 watt PRP resistors for this if my boards are populated with 1/2 watt?

Understood... It makes perfect sense when you put it that way

Yikes, so I shouldn't use my HD650's or 250 Ohm Darth Beyers?

yes, they all have a code, I'll email TI on monday to see what they say

batch 1 difference between 5&1:7 both ways 1 637BP that's 220 Ohms off 1 637AP that's 400 Ohms off 1 627AP that's 170 Ohms off Measurement of resistance between 5&1 all fall between 45 - 58K both ways batch 2 difference between 5&1:7 both ways 1 637BP that's 0 Ohms off (dead even) 1 627BP that's 80 Ohms off 1 637BP that's 10 Ohms off Measurement of resistance between 5&1 all fall between 45 - 58K both ways I'm ready to call them all real. I have no other means to test other than to listen to them in a circuit. What do you think?

I have never done that bfore. Does require a scope and a signal generator?

I did not keep track of red or black on the 5&1:7 test. I will retest when I get home as well as test between 5 and 1

There's this as well... Try red on pin 1 and black on pin 5, then black on pin 1 and red on pin 5, both measure should read 45-55K

I may have to

I have batch 1 1 637BP that's 220 Ohms off 1 637AP that's 400 Ohms off 1 627AP that's 170 Ohms off I have batch 2 1 637BP that's 0 Ohms off (dead even) 1 627BP that's 80 Ohms off 1 637BP that's 10 Ohms off What do you think?

I'll try that tonight. I'm sure one or two are fake because the logos aren't straight. I'll see what happens

I remember that thread and I think I went through it only to have more questions.

I have several OPA627 and OPA637 in 8 pin dip. Some I ordered from digikey, some from ebay that could've been digikey samples and some from ebay that aren't. The problem is I acquired some when there were some fakes going around. I didn't separate one order from another and put them all together. I'm sure some are real and some are fake but is there a definitive way to tell?

I used an adjustable wire stripper set to right aroung 22 awg. Like it was said in here, pull straight out. One channel is enameled red and I think the other is green. The ground or - pin in this case was copper colored. For tinning I used a solder pot. I can't comment on laquer thinner but I can tell you the solder pot made quick work of it. If you're having trouble I will do it for you free of charge. Just send me the cable and plug with return postage.